Squeezer smilies - Page 3

GPV · #21 10-08-2019, 02:22 PM

Hi all,

I sent vans a very lengthy document detailing all my rivets. You can see it here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jjE...w?usp=drivesdk

They said the smilies were acceptable and only one very crooked and over driven rivet on my middle rudder hinge needed replacing (I'll do both though I think). Very relieved!

To answer the question above, yes my squeezer lets me grab the rivet gently before setting. I have it all sorted now and my latest rivets are essentially perfect! Thanks for the advice everyone.

Cheers,

Greg

Captain Avgas · #22 10-08-2019, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GPV

Talk about a difference! Rivets are now pretty much perfect, as can be seen here:

https://www.instagram.com/p/B3WrQU1h...=17k7g5khoxjzf

Greg, Those new rivets look great. I’m glad that you’ve been able to take control of your dog. You have to walk the dog...not let the dog walk you.

GPV · #23 10-08-2019, 05:49 PM

Thanks Bob, very happy with it and I agree that no tape is needed when you use both hands and the job can't move. Wish I had learnt it earlier!

Captain Avgas · #24 10-08-2019, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GPV

Thanks Bob, very happy with it and I agree that no tape is needed when you use both hands and the job can't move. Wish I had learnt it earlier!

Greg, I’ll give you another really good tip on this pneumatic squeezer topic. Eventually you will have to drill out some rivets that you are not happy with. That is an area of real danger for most builders because with each replaced rivet the original drilled hole becomes slightly larger. A larger hole means that the replacement rivet can lean over more in the hole.

You will often find posters on VansAirforce telling builders to leave extremely bad rivets in place rather than replace them....that’s because their own experiences with replacing rivets have been disastrous.

However if you follow my process and take extra care to control the squeezer firmly you can always ensure that the new rivet is set orthogonal to the surface (at 90 degrees) despite the enlarged hole, thus ensuring that the new rivet is perfect. The process of gripping the rivet before squeezing it is even more important for replacement rivets.

I’m giving you this advice before you need it ha ha ha.

GPV · #25 10-09-2019, 04:29 PM

Hmmm, you must be psychic!

Vans suggested I replace one of my really bad rivets. I did and it went perfectly well with both the drill out and rivet replacement (see top rivet in below photo). This improved my confidence so I stupidly decided to replace another one. Unfortunately this one didn't go so well and I ended up contacting the hole wall with the drill and elongating it slightly (see below photo). I spoke to Vans and they said to simply install a replacement, which was a relief as I was sure I'd need to drill the hole bigger and use a larger rivet.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/18hh...w?usp=drivesdk

So assuming the replacement goes well I will have an oval hole which can't be great for stress distribution. Especially given that this is for the rudder attach hinges! All that careful deburring and scratch removal almost seems laughable now! I definitely know where to focus my efforts from now on.

wirejock · #26 10-09-2019, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GPV

Hmmm, you must be psychic!

Vans suggested I replace one of my really bad rivets. I did and it went perfectly well with both the drill out and rivet replacement (see top rivet in below photo). This improved my confidence so I stupidly decided to replace another one. Unfortunately this one didn't go so well and I ended up contacting the hole wall with the drill and elongating it slightly (see below photo). I spoke to Vans and they said to simply install a replacement, which was a relief as I was sure I'd need to drill the hole bigger and use a larger rivet.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/18hh...w?usp=drivesdk

So assuming the replacement goes well I will have an oval hole which can't be great for stress distribution. Especially given that this is for the rudder attach hinges! All that careful deburring and scratch removal almost seems laughable now! I definitely know where to focus my efforts from now on.

Buy a set of drill stops. It will prevent drilling deeper than the head. Unless they are set too deep.

On a side note, please get some gun & bar practice. Get proficient with every gun set including the dreaded double offset. There are numerous places where nothing else will work and proficiently instills confidence. Personally, I grab a gun & bar more often than a squeezer unless it's a whole row of identical rivets.

GPV · #27 10-10-2019, 06:02 AM

Thanks for the tip and I will be sure to get some gun and bar practice soon! Not sure a stop would have helped thiugh, as I was trying to drill all the way through the rivet as per the instructions for removal in thick material. I should have slowed down and used a smaller diameter drill!

wirejock · #28 10-10-2019, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GPV

Thanks for the tip and I will be sure to get some gun and bar practice soon! Not sure a stop would have helped thiugh, as I was trying to drill all the way through the rivet as per the instructions for removal in thick material. I should have slowed down and used a smaller diameter drill!

You are exactly correct. Drill first hole with a bit numerically 10 smaller than the parent hole. If it's thick, you may drill past the head but be careful. The hole relieves the pressure holding the rivet and need not be the same saize as the parent hole.
Make a set of backing bars for driving out the rivet tail.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7...md0cEtqaW1NMWc

GPV · #29 10-10-2019, 04:01 PM

Those bucking bars definitely look useful, will have to make myself some.

Thanks for the help.

Southern Pete · #30 10-11-2019, 06:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJarreau

Pete, what is wrong with sanding / buffing out the smile? From image, the smiles do not appear significantly deep. Would that not be a 3rd reasonable possibility?

What would that achieve? The dent is rounded at the bottom and is unlikely to introduce a stress razor. If the rivet is left in almost impossible to dress out, if the rivet is taken out then likely to take out some metal from under rivet head. My view would be if the dent is OK to leave the do nothing and spend the time on something else.

Pete