Bleeding Beringer Brakes - Page 4

majuro15 · #31 10-09-2019, 10:08 AM

I'm struggling to think how to get my cylinders horizontal with my RV-10 Control Approach pedals. The cylinders mount to the rear of the pedals, so can't just pull them forward like I guess others are doing. Maybe I can pull them towards the firewall??? I'll have to check.

azflyer21 · #32 10-09-2019, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by majuro15

I'm struggling to think how to get my cylinders horizontal with my RV-10 Control Approach pedals. The cylinders mount to the rear of the pedals, so can't just pull them forward like I guess others are doing. Maybe I can pull them towards the firewall??? I'll have to check.

Tim,
I have the Control Approach system as well, I un-bolted the bottom of the cylinder and lifted them to rest on the firewall. They stayed there long enough to bleed.

wirejock · #33 10-09-2019, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by majuro15

I'm struggling to think how to get my cylinders horizontal with my RV-10 Control Approach pedals. The cylinders mount to the rear of the pedals, so can't just pull them forward like I guess others are doing. Maybe I can pull them towards the firewall??? I'll have to check.

I was wondering that very thing. Which way works best. Lifted forward or aft? Lines facing up or lines facing down?

mturnerb · #34 10-09-2019, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wirejock

I was wondering that very thing. Which way works best. Lifted forward or aft? Lines facing up or lines facing down?

I disconnected the lower bolts and tipped them up. The way they attach to standard pedals, this put the banjo fittings facing upward.

majuro15 · #35 10-10-2019, 07:12 AM

Kevin, good to hear, thanks for the feedback. I'll do mine at the end of the month.

Mongoose · #36 10-10-2019, 09:26 AM

I’ve got my brakes working fairly well but still wondering if they are good enough. The top of the pedals move about an inch and a half. The cylinders move between a quarter and half of an inch. Once engaged they seem firm and hold pressure well. Is that consistent with others with beringer brakes?

bugsy63 · #37 10-10-2019, 08:17 PM

Albeit on and RV9A, I've got about 1/4" to 1/2" travel with no tendency to ride the brakes. They've got 70 hours on them and I can't say I've noticed any appreciable sign of deterioration. I have not bled them since the initial installation.

I have the pressure reducing/anti lock valve backed off. I wonder if you may have that turned up at all.

mturnerb · #38 10-11-2019, 05:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mongoose

I’ve got my brakes working fairly well but still wondering if they are good enough. The top of the pedals move about an inch and a half. The cylinders move between a quarter and half of an inch. Once engaged they seem firm and hold pressure well. Is that consistent with others with beringer brakes?

I'd say mine move around 3/4 - 1" at the top fully compressed. I think you have to rely on the "feel" to tell you how they are working: Mine have a definite firmness and a very distinct end-point which comes well before the travel limit (before the springs on cylinders fully compress), and are quite even side-to-side. I had the same sort of concerns as you do, until I had a small leak and noticed a "spongy" feel on one side - after fixing the leak/re-bleeding, the firm feel came back and I was more comfortable. Running engine while setting prop RPM, the brakes held and the airplane actually skidded a bit until the cable I tied down to tail got taut (that was very momentary FYI just to get prop set).

Now that I'm flying brakes just feel "right", don't think about it much. I do test the pedal feel as part of every "GUMPS" check before landing.

majuro15 · #39 11-01-2019, 11:59 AM

So I used the pressure bleeder method and have the right brake done in about three minutes. However, the left brake is proving impossible. I can't get any movement of the fluid at all, even at 15 psi. I have the master cylinders horizontal and confirmed both are open. I have a parking break and confirmed it's open as well. Any ideas? I'm banging my head here. Literally. On the flap bracket every stinking time.

bkervaski · #40 11-01-2019, 12:02 PM

Quote:

So I used the pressure bleeder method and have the right brake done in about three minutes. However, the left brake is proving impossible. I can't get any movement of the fluid at all, even at 15 psi. I have the master cylinders horizontal and confirmed both are open. I have a parking break and confirmed it's open as well. Any ideas? I'm banging my head here. Literally. On the flap bracket every stinking time.

Sent you an email.