Yet another tool thread.

[jcarne]

Originally Posted by jssaylor2007

Can I use a cordless drill in place of the Sioux drill that comes in the kit? I was thinking one of the smaller a Milwaukee cordless.

Unfortunately I haven’t ordered the kit yet, hoping to get it in the next few months, but knew I would need tools first. Can you get both paper and USB?

Many people just use a cordless. However, an air drill sure is nice, it's lighter, really small, and spins way faster. Honestly my Nova air drill is even quieter than my cordless. If you want to save a bit of cash I highly recommend the Nova drill that Cleaveland sells.

[Kyle Boatright]

Originally Posted by jssaylor2007

Can I use a cordless drill in place of the Sioux drill that comes in the kit? I was thinking one of the smaller a Milwaukee cordless.

Unfortunately I haven’t ordered the kit yet, hoping to get it in the next few months, but knew I would need tools first. Can you get both paper and USB?

Cordless drills are fine. I drilled, countersunk, and deburred most of the holes in my RV-6 with one and have used one exclusively on the RV-10. I just don't enjoy the noise of a single stage portable compressor in my small shop or garage, and I hate being tied to air hoses, so I avoid air tools unless they are really necessary (e.g. riveting).

One thing about tools. You don't need *that* many to start. C-frame, drill, files, dimple dies, rivet sets, rivet gun, drill bits, clecos, countersinks, and bucking bars. A manual squeezer is nice to have.

Buy the tail kit. Acquire the basic tools. Get started and add tools as you need. You'll finish the project faster that way than waiting to build up a pro-quality shop before you start.

As far as plans go, you get a set of paper plans for each sub-kit when it is delivered. And if you have the USB plans, can print multiple copies for casual reading at lunch or whatever...

[catcrew]

Originally Posted by jssaylor2007

Can I use a cordless drill in place of the Sioux drill that comes in the kit? I was thinking one of the smaller a Milwaukee cordless.

Unfortunately I haven?t ordered the kit yet, hoping to get it in the next few months, but knew I would need tools first. Can you get both paper and USB?

As others have said, you can do the whole kit with a cordless....but you will be limited by battery charges and how big your biceps are. That drill gets heavy match drilling large skins! Go hold your lightest cordless drill at about chest high and hold it in the same position for 30 minutes and see how that feels. Now try that for 2 hours. It can be fatiguing. I still use my cordless for countersink operations as it has a slow sleep high torque setting that works better for countersinking. But all the rest is with an air drill.

Order the USB plans asap. They are 10$ last I checked. They ship the paper with each kit but having the USB plans is very well worth the 10 plus a few bucks in shipping. I uploaded mine to my dropbox and have them on my tablet, phone, computer. Wherever. Then when you have 30 minutes to kill, read over upcoming steps. It ensures I have an idea of what I am doing the next time I go to the shop.

Order the plans, order the kit, then get the tools as you need them. I actually do not recommend the tool kits. Blasphemous, I know. I have spent the same money...but over several years. You can build most of the tail kit with probably $1000 to $1500 in tools. Eventually, you will have enough things on your punchlist, that if you need to wait a few days on a tool, you can finish another puch list item somewhere else while you wait.

[catcrew]

Originally Posted by jssaylor2007

Can I use a cordless drill in place of the Sioux drill that comes in the kit? I was thinking one of the smaller a Milwaukee cordless.

Unfortunately I haven?t ordered the kit yet, hoping to get it in the next few months, but knew I would need tools first. Can you get both paper and USB?

As others have said, you can do the whole kit with a cordless....but you will be limited by battery charges and how big your biceps are. That drill gets heavy match drilling large skins! Go hold your lightest cordless drill at about chest high and hold it in the same position for 30 minutes and see how that feels. Now try that for 2 hours. It can be fatiguing. I still use my cordless for countersink operations as it has a slow sleep high torque setting that works better for countersinking. But all the rest is with an air drill.

Order the USB plans asap. They are 10$ last I checked. They ship the paper with each kit but having the USB plans is very well worth the 10 plus a few bucks in shipping. I uploaded mine to my dropbox and have them on my tablet, phone, computer. Wherever. Then when you have 30 minutes to kill, read over upcoming steps. It ensures I have an idea of what I am doing the next time I go to the shop.

Order the plans, order the kit, then get the tools as you need them. I actually do not recommend the tool kits. Blasphemous, I know. I have spent the same money...but over several years. You can build most of the tail kit with probably $1000 to $1500 in tools. Eventually, you will have enough things on your punchlist, that if you need to wait a few days on a tool, you can finish another puch list item somewhere else while you wait.

[catcrew]

Originally Posted by jssaylor2007

Can I use a cordless drill in place of the Sioux drill that comes in the kit? I was thinking one of the smaller a Milwaukee cordless.

Unfortunately I haven?t ordered the kit yet, hoping to get it in the next few months, but knew I would need tools first. Can you get both paper and USB?

As others have said, you can do the whole kit with a cordless....but you will be limited by battery charges and how big your biceps are. That drill gets heavy match drilling large skins! Go hold your lightest cordless drill at about chest high and hold it in the same position for 30 minutes and see how that feels. Now try that for 2 hours. It can be fatiguing. I still use my cordless for countersink operations as it has a slow sleep high torque setting that works better for countersinking. But all the rest is with an air drill.

Order the USB plans asap. They are 10$ last I checked. They ship the paper with each kit but having the USB plans is very well worth the 10 plus a few bucks in shipping. I uploaded mine to my dropbox and have them on my tablet, phone, computer. Wherever. Then when you have 30 minutes to kill, read over upcoming steps. It ensures I have an idea of what I am doing the next time I go to the shop.

Order the plans, order the kit, then get the tools as you need them. I actually do not recommend the tool kits. Blasphemous, I know. I have spent the same money...but over several years. You can build most of the tail kit with probably $1000 to $1500 in tools. Eventually, you will have enough things on your punchlist, that if you need to wait a few days on a tool, you can finish another puch list item somewhere else while you wait.

[David Paule]

If it's not a QB, and maybe if it is, plan on one of those robot vacuums for the shop. They do make things nicer. Um, you did make the work bench bottoms high enough from the floor for one, right?

Plenty of light. When you have enough, add more.

Some sound. I use an old boombox, but people can get fancy.

Everything Wirejock said.

Set of small wrenches and sockets and drivers and screwdrivers.

Some of these magnets, which do a great job holding things in alignment until you can drill it and get a cleco in. Get an even number since they're used in pairs.

Dave

[tyconnell]

If at all possible, take a builders class first. You can figure out most of the tools you will want to purchase during the class. It may spoil you. Tungsten bucking bars, DRDT-2 and a pneumatic squeezer are all of a sudden ?necessary?.

[cderk]

If you?re just starting out, I?d recommend contacting cleaveland tools and just purchase their kit. Yes, I?ve had to buy a few things here and there, but they did a great job putting the kit together and their service is top notch. Don?t buy **** tools - you?ll regret it.

The only stuff that i have purchased from Harbor Freight is my band saw and bench grinder.

[jssaylor2007]

In the drill discussion, this only weighs a few more ounces than the Sioux, and I figure I can keep a couple of extra batteries on hand. On to deburring, what is the best tool/tools to do that with?

[jcarne]

Originally Posted by jssaylor2007

In the drill discussion, this only weighs a few more ounces than the Sioux, and I figure I can keep a couple of extra batteries on hand. On to deburring, what is the best tool/tools to do that with?

This is one area where people differ more greatly. If it is a big skin or has relatively flat edges I start with a vixen file. After the vixen I go to the bench grinder with the 6" scotchbrite wheel if the part isn't too big or awkward. If it is I put a 1" scotchbrite wheel on my dremel and go to town. For the nooks and crannies I like to "floss" it with 400 grit turners cloth (sandpaper will not do here as it tears to easily). As for the holes I use a 5/16" drill bit and give each hole a light turn or two to remove the bur. If it is an area that I know I'm going to prime I do away with the drill big method and use the dremel with the scotchbrite wheel instead. You will develop your own method as you go but hopefully this helps as a starting point.