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  #51  
Old 08-31-2019, 11:57 PM
BobTurner BobTurner is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livermore, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snopercod View Post
The procedure Carl Froehlich described is what I did, only I extended the 2 bid maybe 1/2" onto the plexiglass.
I believe that is what Carl did. He didn?t let it extend past the inside joggle.
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  #52  
Old 09-05-2019, 08:54 PM
kkmarshall kkmarshall is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Central Tx
Posts: 213
Default Replaced

Well,I got my window installed and ended up using the Weldon from Vans. It is just as bad to work with as described. Was going to use Lord,but Aerosport was out of stock and could not give me a definite date when they would have it. I wanted to get flying sooner that that. Used Vans window vs Cee Baileys b/c Vans is .150 and Cee Bailey says their side glass is .125 But the trimming is time consuming for sure! Now I am putting on my flame suit,but I have decided to put c/s #6 screws in the corners of All my windows with nylock nuts on the inside so that I will only lightly snug them. I have a full Flightline interior and the "rope" trim will cover the nuts. Experimented with the remaining parts of the old window as well as the cutoff parts of the new window and it works quite well. Gonna glass over it anyway so I like the belt,suspenders & elastic waistband! Flame if you choose but if you haven't lost a window in flight,turn down the heat just a bit. This is why they call it experimental,right? Just thought I would relay "the rest of the story"
ps;Vans tech support didn't see anything wrong with my plan,thought it sounded feasible.
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Last edited by kkmarshall : 09-05-2019 at 09:01 PM.
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  #53  
Old 09-05-2019, 09:23 PM
Carl Froehlich's Avatar
Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is online now
 
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Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
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Your choice on adding the screws, but if you do take steps to mitigate possible crack issues by:
- Use a Unibit to oversize the glass screw holes to something like 3/16?.
- Countersink the holes to accept a #6 tinnerman.
- Glass over the screws and tinnermans as you suggest.

The objective here is to have the tinnerman spread out the screw clamp pressure over the edge of the hole, and the screw does not touch the glass so you avoid creating a hot spot.

This process worked well on RV-8 and 8A canopy glass.

That said - I offer that adding the glass over the outside as I discusses should be more than enough to let you sleep at night. But - your plane so build it like you want.

Carl
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  #54  
Old 09-05-2019, 10:03 PM
kkmarshall kkmarshall is offline
 
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Location: Central Tx
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My experimenting has definitely been with holes larger than required for a #6,but not as large as 3/16ths. Wasn't planning on tinnermans though. On the scraps I countersunk to where the screw head is slightly below flush to allow for sanding the plexi down for glassing. I wasn't planning to have any tension on the screw at all,just engaged in the nylock and still able to rotate fairly easily. More of a backup safety device. But I listen to all input and welcome it.
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  #55  
Old 09-09-2019, 08:26 AM
49clipper 49clipper is offline
 
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Location: Belleville
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Which Weld-on are you planning to use? #40, or other? I am about to do a windshield on my build (not RV) and have decided on Sika-flex 295UV due to the fact that Weld-on looks like it could be a real PITA. Saw a lot of comments on how hard the process and mixing is. Comments?
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  #56  
Old 09-09-2019, 08:31 AM
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rocketbob rocketbob is offline
 
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Location: 8I3
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Offering this tidbit up. Beech Muskeeters have bonded side windows that were done with proseal. The 56 year old airplane in my hangar I'm doing an annual on shows no sign of delamination.
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  #57  
Old 09-09-2019, 01:14 PM
kkmarshall kkmarshall is offline
 
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I used Weld-on 10 from Van's,Aerosport was out of the Lord adhesive that I would have much preferred but they didn't know when it would be back in stock.
I can confirm Weld-on is a pain to work with. Stringy and at least in Tx summer temps,a very short working time. But got it done. Didn't find mixing it to be difficult though.

I bet Muskateer windows have never been subjected to the lift generated at 200 mph! 😂
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  #58  
Old 09-09-2019, 01:31 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 49clipper View Post
Which Weld-on are you planning to use? #40, or other? I am about to do a windshield on my build (not RV) and have decided on Sika-flex 295UV due to the fact that Weld-on looks like it could be a real PITA. Saw a lot of comments on how hard the process and mixing is. Comments?
I used sika. Very secure, but you need a plan to deal with the expansion and contraction. The sila bulges when the window expanda and creares a valley when the window contracts. Must changes happen at the two front corner and the rear arc. I wish i had taken the time to clean up the joggle edges and did what Jan did. I have the old green top and the workmanship was horrific. I used a flexible bondo instead. Not bad, but the bulging would be less noticeable with the black accent

One of the reasons it is so secure is that the adhesive flexes and conforms. With a ridgid adhesive loke weldon, the glue joint is taking all of the stress from the expanding plexi. Any weakness ther and it will snap loose like the op saw.
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Last edited by lr172 : 09-09-2019 at 01:39 PM.
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  #59  
Old 09-09-2019, 01:42 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkmarshall View Post
I used Weld-on 10 from Van's,Aerosport was out of the Lord adhesive that I would have much preferred but they didn't know when it would be back in stock.
I can confirm Weld-on is a pain to work with. Stringy and at least in Tx summer temps,a very short working time. But got it done. Didn't find mixing it to be difficult though.

I bet Muskateer windows have never been subjected to the lift generated at 200 mph! ��
As you noticed, the force on the window in flight is minimal. The stress on the joint is from the difference in expansion rates, in my opinion. I believe that baking on the ramp is the real evil here.
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  #60  
Old 09-09-2019, 02:00 PM
kkmarshall kkmarshall is offline
 
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Maybe I said something confusing but no,I don't think the force in flight is minimal,I think there is quite a bit of lifting force on the side windows in flight. As there is on the doors. But I agree with you that heat on the ramp leads to the cracking in the paint from the different expansion of Plexiglass to fiberglass.
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