Rudder cable clevis hitting bulk head opening

[dbaflyer]

I installed my rudder pedal links with the length I wanted to fit my height. What I see is the portion of the clevis that meets up with the cable is "catching" on the snap bushing in the first bulk head behind the rudder pedals. I can still extend full rudder both ways but you can hear it catch and then keep going.
This seems wrong, but wanted other opinions

[Kyle Boatright]

Originally Posted by dbaflyer

I installed my rudder pedal links with the length I wanted to fit my height. What I see is the portion of the clevis that meets up with the cable is "catching" on the snap bushing in the first bulk head behind the rudder pedals. I can still extend full rudder both ways but you can hear it catch and then keep going.
This seems wrong, but wanted other opinions

Mine did that many years ago. Cut a piece of nylaflow tubing a foot (or so*) long. Slit it, then slip it over the rudder cable and over the solid metal end of the rudder cable, right up to the connection with the rudder pedal. Wrap safety wire around each end of the tubing to hold it in place on the cable.

Now, you've created a smooth transition so your cable end won't stop-out on the bulkhead.

*The piece of tubing needs to be long enough that even with the pedal fully depressed, the tubing is still long enough to protrude through the bulkhead. That length will vary by pedal location.

[airtractor8]

The search function is your friend. Myself and others have had the same problem. Mine is an RV 6 though. This is what I did to fix it.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...0&postcount=14

[tgmillso]

I found that I had the same issue. It ended up being attributed to the fact that I had the rudder bar mounting too far forward, but I was pulling the pedals back toward the pilot/copilot by using a short link. This means that when the pedals are cycled they see more of a vertical range of motion than if they were in a neutral position that was straight up and down (for the same amount of rudder throw). I was trying to do this so that I wouldn't inadvertently put my toes on the brakes. I rectified the situation by putting standoffs on the rudder pedals, and leaving the rudder pedals in a more upright position as Van's suggests, and putting external springs on the brake master cylinders so that if there was inadvertent contact with the brake pedals, the pads would not accidently engage the discs. In hindsight I would have drilled the brake pedal pivot points so that they were canted further forward than the plans suggest.
In summary, make sure your rudder bar is straight up and down, and use standoffs if you need to keep of the brakes.

Tom
RV-7

Here's the link to the master cylinder spring mod upgrade:
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...t=40235&page=3