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  #31  
Old 03-09-2017, 01:10 PM
A-Ron A-Ron is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Trinidad, CA
Posts: 22
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Bill, Thanks for documenting your experience with the aftermarket struts. I am ready to order the same ones but I want to clarify something first. Are you saying that on one end you have the "A1 M8" and the other end "B1 M8"?

I have the PlaneAround brackets FYI and am picking up the finishing kit tomorrow and FWF from VANs.

Is your setup perfect now or would you have ordered some other end in order to not have to do any grinding/modifying or another end to get the full amount of travel? Thanks a bunch

Last edited by A-Ron : 03-09-2017 at 01:20 PM.
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  #32  
Old 03-09-2017, 07:41 PM
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Bill.Peyton Bill.Peyton is offline
 
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Location: St. Louis, MO
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Here is what I ordered that works with a slight modification to the thickness.


Per Door:
1 each - BONOF50-100-247/530N Strut
2 each - B1 M8 Eye
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  #33  
Old 07-12-2019, 08:53 AM
rongawer rongawer is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Brentwood, CA
Posts: 659
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This is an old thread, but I want to say thanks Bill for the extra info. I just did this, although with the 600 Newton struts. A couple minutes to thin the ends and it's a perfect fit. Total cost for (4) B1 M8 eyes and (2) BONOF50-100-247/600N struts was $73.50 with free shipping.

BTW, I simply used an end mill bit in my drill press to accurately thin the ends 1mm per side to a total thickness of 10mm from the 12mm they come as. The extra 10mm in total length does get the door fully opened nicely.

One thing I want to point out is from Bansbach is that this model has normal speed with end dampening in the last 30mm of travel. They also said that dampening only becomes efficient if the gas spring is mounted with the piston rod showing downwards while opening; this is because the hyrdaulic fluid will run to the bottom by gravity and then be forced back up through an orifice at the end of travel. So bottom line, ensure the rod is connected to the door frame and the gas cylinder to the door.
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Last edited by rongawer : 07-12-2019 at 09:24 AM.
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  #34  
Old 07-12-2019, 12:24 PM
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cderk cderk is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Park Ridge, NJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rongawer View Post
They also said that dampening only becomes efficient if the gas spring is mounted with the piston rod showing downwards while opening; this is because the hyrdaulic fluid will run to the bottom by gravity and then be forced back up through an orifice at the end of travel. So bottom line, ensure the rod is connected to the door frame and the gas cylinder to the door.
Yes, this worked for me. I dont remember the exact part numbers, but somewhere on VAF, there are part numbers for the end pieces that make it easy to install, with no milling required.
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  #35  
Old 07-12-2019, 03:29 PM
rongawer rongawer is offline
 
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Location: Brentwood, CA
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Originally Posted by cderk View Post
Yes, this worked for me. I dont remember the exact part numbers, but somewhere on VAF, there are part numbers for the end pieces that make it easy to install, with no milling required.
I believe you are referring to the A1 M8 end pieces others have used.

My thanks to Bill is based on him noting that the B1 M8 pieces are 5mm longer than the A1 ends, adding 10mm to the overall length, which matches the Van's kit strut OAL. This brings the door up to full height, whereas the A1 ends leave the OAL of the struts 1/2" shorter; doing the math, that leaves the door hanging down a few inches at the end.

Bansbach does not have a 10mm thick M8 end piece 25mm in length. Someone out there in the world probably makes a 25mm long end piece that is 10mm thick with M8 threads, but I felt that searching for that was more time than the one minute each I spent on the B1 M8 ends to mill them from 12 to 10mm thickness.
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- RV10, Build in progress.
- RV12, N975G, "The Commuter"...many great hours and happy landings so far.
- Several others that are now just great memories for me.

Last edited by rongawer : 07-12-2019 at 03:32 PM.
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