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  #11  
Old 05-06-2016, 06:55 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snoopyflys View Post
Thanks for the replies. The sites and pics do give me some ideas as to how and where to mount the remote components.

One slightly dumb question, is there a limit to the number sub-panel pass-thru holes/grommets used for wires? In some of the pics I looked at there seem to be several. Is it better to route the wires under the sub-panel than thru or is it builders preference?
I routed most under for service, but some through for shorter routing. Connectors won't pass, so wiring in place is required for those, so no bench test. Conclusion: builders preference.

I do suggest you plan the position of each component, and major wire paths throughout. This will make you plan to the end and greatly shorten the installation time and result in a neat appearance. If digital solid models are not available, then make a mockup in plywood with open sides. I though as I went and it made it much more difficult and was necessary with preplanning.
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  #12  
Old 05-16-2016, 07:39 AM
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Raymo Raymo is offline
 
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Location: Richmond Hill, GA (KLHW)
Posts: 2,189
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Here is an updated pic of my panel wiring as of yesterday. I am happy with the layout of boxes and wire routing. Only the Dynon backup battery is on the front side of the sub-panel.

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RV-7A - Slider - N495KL - First flt 27 Jan 17
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  #13  
Old 05-03-2019, 12:21 PM
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Draker Draker is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Livermore, CA
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Re-opening this thread since it seems already have a lot of relevant discussion. I'm also giving initial thought to where I'll mount various (for me, G3X) electronic gizmos. For the GTX 45R transducer/ADS-B and GTR 20 remote intercom/comm radio, I'm leaning towards mounting these guys totally remotely--behind the baggage bulkhead. They'd be mounted up against the sides, using something like Van's ELT/Strobe power supply mount kit, one box on each side to reduce potential interference with one another.

I considered the following reasons for mounting these away from the other electronics:

1. Closer proximity to their respective antennas, reducing coax signal loss
2. Keep panel/subpanel area more open/tidy
3. Shorter wire runs to the WAAS GPS (which I think also belongs aft), stick PTT buttons and armrest headset jacks

Possible pitfalls I can think of:
1. Increased aft CG
2. Longer wire runs to power/gnd and EFIS

Has anyone else done the proper amount of agonizing over these components' mounting locations, and come up with other pros and cons?
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  #14  
Old 05-03-2019, 03:47 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,119
Default my take

I was thinking about wire runs the other day in looking at my fuse in build, and I think I am going to minimize the amount of "stuff" aft of the baggage bulkhead. I think the wire runs thru the tunnel could get fairly large with all that shielded wire and stuff.
So I am thinking, just GMU11, elev servo, com coax, elt and tail light/stobe will be all I put back there.
I am hopping the Elev servo and the GMU11 can share the same CANbus.
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WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

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  #15  
Old 05-03-2019, 04:12 PM
pilot2512 pilot2512 is offline
 
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Location: Spring, TX
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Please give consideration that a lot of those coaxes to the antennas have a minimum length and you may end up with a coil of coax anyways. As a matter of fact I think the GTX-45R also has a requirement of being a min 3 feet away from the antenna.
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  #16  
Old 05-04-2019, 10:40 AM
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Hartstoc Hartstoc is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Sebastopol,CA
Posts: 358
Default Slightly off topic

It is easy to install lru’s in a new build before the top skin goes on, but since I’m installing G3X/GTN as an upgrade, I found it helpful to build this wood mockup of the panel-to-firewall section of my 7A on which all of the remotes and any support brackets can be mounted for harness wiring on a tabletop. It also has skids and legs that allow it to be quickly positioned panel-down, panel-up, upright, or upside down on the tabletop. Very handy for my harness being built from scratch. The whole assembly can then be transferred to the aircraft for final connections with a minimum of in-aircraft, under-panel work. Shown here in panel-down mode prior to addition of remotes.- Otis

Shown here all dressed up sitting in upright mode:
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Last edited by Hartstoc : 05-04-2019 at 10:48 AM.
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  #17  
Old 05-28-2019, 08:20 PM
Vansrv7arob Vansrv7arob is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Coal Point, Australia
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I really like the wood mock up Otis!! I'll have to make one for my 7 tip-up, it would be the perfect project for someone to dimension and draw in Solidworks, that way it could be easily shared and cut locally with a CNC.

I very much like the font you've used on your panel, it makes the labels jump out to my eyes, especially the curved text under each switch very clear. What type font is it or are they hand drawn? Best labelling Ive seen to date.
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  #18  
Old 05-28-2019, 09:21 PM
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sahrens sahrens is offline
 
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Location: Battle Ground
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Draker View Post
Has anyone else done the proper amount of agonizing over these components' mounting locations, and come up with other pros and cons?
I agonized over this on my RV-7 and I decided to not mount very much back there. What I did put behind the baggage compartment is the Dynon dual ADAHRS, the pitch servo (of course), a Dynon hub and on each side wall the strobe power pack (right) and the ELT on the left. With that I have an aft CG limiting my baggage compartment to 85lbs at landing weight. The two wire bushings in the center tunnel area are really full.

My solution to remote devices was to build an avionics shelf between the sub-panel and the firewall. It is hinge on the firewall side so I can lower it for access if necessary. That took extra effort to plan the wire runs so there would be enough service loop to allow the shelf to swing but not too much to allow for chaffing.
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