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04-29-2019, 11:43 AM
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 20
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Strobes not working
None of my three strobes (two wingtip strobes; rudder strobe) are working. The rudder static position light does work. Its a Whelen system. Have heard of other pilots frying their wingtip strobe tubes/bulbs because of heat issues under the plexiglass but the power supply seems the most likely culprit if all three strobes are out. Other ideas? I tried PMing RocketBob about how he fixed his Whelen Power supply with a 50 cent capacitor but his mailbox was full. If you see this, RocketBob, would appreciate insight on how you completed this repair. Not eager to spend $674 on a new Whelen Power supply when I don't fly at night.
Thanks for any info
Andreas
RV7A
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04-29-2019, 11:48 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: 8I3
Posts: 3,564
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I opened the box up, checked the large caps with a capacitor tester, and replaced the cap that was bad.
__________________
Please don't PM me! Email only!
Bob Japundza CFI A&PIA
N9187P PA-24-260B Comanche, flying
N678X F1 Rocket, under const.
N244BJ RV-6 "victim of SNF tornado" 1200+ hrs, rebuilding
N8155F C150 flying
N7925P PA-24-250 Comanche, restoring
Not a thing I own is stock.
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04-29-2019, 11:49 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: 8I3
Posts: 3,564
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I opened the box up, checked the large caps with a capacitor tester, and replaced the cap that was bad.
Be very careful when handling the power supply as the capacitor voltages can be lethal!
__________________
Please don't PM me! Email only!
Bob Japundza CFI A&PIA
N9187P PA-24-260B Comanche, flying
N678X F1 Rocket, under const.
N244BJ RV-6 "victim of SNF tornado" 1200+ hrs, rebuilding
N8155F C150 flying
N7925P PA-24-250 Comanche, restoring
Not a thing I own is stock.
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04-29-2019, 02:23 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Cary, N.C.
Posts: 1,216
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Single power supply or three? Fuses or circuit breaker...check good?
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Noel
RV-6A N6NF
tip-up
flying
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04-29-2019, 02:36 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Southern Michigan
Posts: 1,966
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Perfect opportunity for an upgrade to something more modern.
https://flyleds.com/products/
__________________
David C.
Howell, MI
RV-10: #41686 Under Construction
RV-9A: #90949 Under Construction
RV-10: #40637 Completed/Sold 2016
Cozy MKIV:#656 Completed/Sold 2007
"Donor Exempt" but donated through Dec. 2020
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04-29-2019, 02:45 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: 8I3
Posts: 3,564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9GT
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To be quite honest I've changed more LED strobes out in the past two years than the old kind. In every case the LED's were non-repairable due to the circuit boards being potted.
__________________
Please don't PM me! Email only!
Bob Japundza CFI A&PIA
N9187P PA-24-260B Comanche, flying
N678X F1 Rocket, under const.
N244BJ RV-6 "victim of SNF tornado" 1200+ hrs, rebuilding
N8155F C150 flying
N7925P PA-24-250 Comanche, restoring
Not a thing I own is stock.
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04-29-2019, 06:08 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Maple Valley, WA
Posts: 273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketbob
To be quite honest I've changed more LED strobes out in the past two years than the old kind. In every case the LED's were non-repairable due to the circuit boards being potted.
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Luckily, the FlyLEDs components are not potted... Parts would be easily swapped out, if needed.
Plus, the customer support is excellent. Had a strobe that didn't quite want to work properly going into Osh last year. Paul has gracious enough to not only replace the controller board completely, he assembled it for me so I could make the repair before departing.
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04-29-2019, 11:24 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,347
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Did you check the fuse? I popped mine with a voltage spike.
__________________
Mike W
Venice, FL
RV-6A. Mattituck TMX O-360, FP, GRT Sport EFIS, L3 Lynx NGT-9000
N164WM
N184WM reserved (RV-8)....finishing kit in progress. Titan IOX-370
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04-30-2019, 06:51 PM
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 20
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Strobes not Working, switch is fried
Thanks very much for the helpful advice. Here's an update:
I crawled under the panel and checked the fuses and wiring to/from the Strobe light switch (BTW, I didn't build the airplane so the switch wiring and harness wiring is a bit confusing to say the least). The strobe switch connector wire to the Whelen Power Supply has partially melted: the insulation melted and pooled into a glob around the connector. It appears to be a case of thin (white) wire coming into the switch from airplane power (battery) and a thicker (red) wire going to the Whelen Power supply - a mismatch in wire gauge leading to overheating at the switch. It's the red wire that's burned outgoing from the switch to the Whelen PS. There's also a 10 amp (red) fuse that's blown but I'm not sure what it powers since there are no labels and I can't follow the individual wires to the fuse box because there are too many of them and they're all white. It might be the strobe fuse or not. In terms of solutions to prevent future problems with overheating at the switch, I could replace the thin white (power) wire with a thicker one which would require digging into the wire harness and be a pain because, as you know, you have to invert or contort yourself to redo wiring under/behind the panel. Or maybe install a relay between the switch and the Whelen power supply to serve as a voltage regulator/circuit "policeman." Any comments/advice appreciated since I have a limited understanding of electrical circuits.
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04-30-2019, 06:53 PM
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 20
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Strobes not Working, switch is fried
Thanks very much for the helpful advice. Here's an update:
I crawled under the panel and checked the fuses and wiring to/from the Strobe light switch (BTW, I didn't build the airplane so the switch wiring and harness wiring is a bit confusing, if not a mystery, to say the least). The strobe toggle switch connector wire to the Whelen Power Supply has partially melted: the insulation melted and pooled into a glob around the connector. The now bare copper wire is greenish in tint. It appears to be a case of thin (white) wire coming into the switch from airplane power (battery) and a thicker (red) wire going to the Whelen Power supply - a mismatch in wire gauge leading to overheating at the switch. It's the red wire that's burned outgoing from the switch to the Whelen PS. There's also a 10 amp (red) blade fuse that's blown but I'm not sure what it powers since there are no labels and I can't follow the individual wires to the fuse box because there are too many wires and they're all white. It might be the strobe fuse or not. In terms of solutions to prevent future problems with overheating at the switch, I could replace the thin white (power) wire with a thicker one which would require digging into the wire harness and be a pain because, as you know, you have to invert or contort yourself to redo wiring under/behind the panel. Or maybe install a relay between the switch and the Whelen power supply to serve as a voltage regulator/circuit "policeman." Any comments/advice appreciated since I have a limited understanding of electrical circuits.
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