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  #41  
Old 03-10-2019, 10:39 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
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20A should be more than adequate. Only reason for the caution is that some have eliminated the separate contactor, when using a starter that has a built-in solenoid (that can on the side of the starter motor) that both moves the pinion out, and provides the high current connection for the starter. Those can stress a typical 10A switch.
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  #42  
Old 03-10-2019, 10:42 PM
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N804RV N804RV is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyAB View Post
Thanks for piping in Charliie. I know from previous posts that you are quite knowledgeable about electrical stuff. There are a few Honeywell swithches in the Grainger link provided several posts up that handle 20 amps. How much current are the switches expected to handle? The solenoid does the heavy lifting for the most part does it not?
What are those $400+ PMA'd Bendix keyed switches rated for? I bet you could look it up.
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  #43  
Old 03-11-2019, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Froehlich View Post
Interesting as this is opposite of my priorities. I worry most about some kid getting in an hitting the start button. Not so much that the engine will start, but the prop hitting someone else. So steps taken to not let a push of the start button engaging the starter.

If someone wants to steal avionics, canopy security makes little difference. For this reason I did not put a lock on the canopy (other than a canopy cover when away from home and parked on the ramp). Insurance will pay for avionics, but repairing a broken canopy would be heartbreaking.

Carl
Pulling out the fuse would serve to keep accidental starter engagement from a "kid getting in and hitting the start button" as well as slow down an airplane thief.
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  #44  
Old 03-11-2019, 08:48 PM
RandyAB RandyAB is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N804RV View Post
What are those $400+ PMA'd Bendix keyed switches rated for? I bet you could look it up.
5 amps according to the spec sheet provided on ACS.

https://m.grainger.com/mobile/produc...fc=MWP2IDP2PCP

I think I might use one of these with the “momentary on” for the starter and the “on” position for the ECU master of the SDS EI. I will have to check if the “on” stays on while the starter is engaged though or that obviously won’t work.
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Last edited by RandyAB : 03-11-2019 at 09:24 PM.
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  #45  
Old 03-11-2019, 10:06 PM
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N804RV N804RV is offline
 
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I wouldn't think the switch in the cockpit would see more than about 4 amps.

Looking at the wiring diagrams, it looks to me like the only current going through the start switch in the cockpit is from the 12vdc from the "Start" circuit breaker, through the switch, then coil of the starter contactor, and then to ground.

So, discounting any resistance of the wire, the switch, and the circuit breaker and their connections, the current in the circuit would only be 12vdc divided by the resistance of the coil.

I was looking at a popular starter contactor spec sheet today. It listed the coil resistance at ~3.5 ohms. That's less than 4 amps, nominal.
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  #46  
Old 03-12-2019, 06:38 AM
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BCP Boys BCP Boys is offline
 
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Default Keyed OFF/ON L/R

I've had a keyed switch in the -7 and kept it that way after the panel upgrade. I thought about going to a push button but that would have required 2 more switches for the Mags and possibly another solenoid. I'm not sure the "failure rate" on the Keyed Cessna type switches are that bad. The key is also the same key that opens my canopy so there is that. About the only complaint I have is that if you have too much "stuff" on your key ring it will flop around when you do aerobatics, so I do agree with that. I only have the 1 key on mine so it doesn't bother me. I did change the contacts at around 700 hours. I think it comes down to a personal preference again. I think the next plane will have a push button with e-Mag switches.
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Last edited by BCP Boys : 03-12-2019 at 06:40 AM.
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  #47  
Old 03-12-2019, 07:15 AM
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Mel Mel is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCP Boys View Post
I'm not sure the "failure rate" on the Keyed Cessna type switches are that bad.
It's not the "fail rate" so much that the failure may not be caught. When you do a mag check, you switch between both, right, and left. Few people check the "off" position. That's where the failure often occurs. And since you normally shut down the engine with the mixture, a failure of the "off" position is not obvious.
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  #48  
Old 03-12-2019, 08:36 AM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyAB View Post
Thanks for piping in Charliie. I know from previous posts that you are quite knowledgeable about electrical stuff. There are a few Honeywell swithches in the Grainger link provided several posts up that handle 20 amps. How much current are the switches expected to handle? The solenoid does the heavy lifting for the most part does it not?
most external auto solenoids (i.e. ford style typically used in our planes) draw around 3-4 amps in my experience. As Charlie mentioned, those mounted on the starter that also pull the drive gear will draw more. I would expect those mounted solenoids that are only contactors would also draw the same 3-4.

Larry
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Last edited by lr172 : 03-12-2019 at 08:40 AM.
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  #49  
Old 03-12-2019, 09:19 AM
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Saville Saville is offline
 
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Is there a circuit diagram that shows how to modify a key-switch system to push button?

Thanks
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  #50  
Old 03-12-2019, 10:05 AM
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N804RV N804RV is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saville View Post
Is there a circuit diagram that shows how to modify a key-switch system to push button?

Thanks
The easiest way is to buy the "Aeroelectric Connection" book or the "Aircraft Wiring Guide" that Vans sells.

How you do it in your aircraft is going to depend on a couple of different things.

If really want some help with it, PM me and I can give you some ideas.
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