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  #31  
Old 03-09-2019, 11:30 AM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
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Location: Sunman, IN
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Or you could use a wireless system.

Now where did I leave that key fob?
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  #32  
Old 03-09-2019, 04:21 PM
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Robertc Robertc is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 63
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I used push button start, toggles on the Pmags and a keyed master. Granger has the master switch here.
https://www.grainger.com/category/el...s/key-switches
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  #33  
Old 03-09-2019, 04:31 PM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
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I?ve used the red button starter from Stein with bezel on all 3 of my RV?s. On this latest one, I used a keyed enable switch (from Stein) to enable the starter push button. Turn off and remove the key when you aren?t there to prevent unauthorized use. Master switch on, won?t enable the start button without the keyed switch turned on.
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  #34  
Old 03-09-2019, 06:16 PM
RandyAB RandyAB is offline
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: St Albert, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Hersha View Post
I?ve used the red button starter from Stein with bezel on all 3 of my RV?s. On this latest one, I used a keyed enable switch (from Stein) to enable the starter push button. Turn off and remove the key when you aren?t there to prevent unauthorized use. Master switch on, won?t enable the start button without the keyed switch turned on.
What is the advantage of that setup over using an off/on/momentary start switch? You accomplish the same thing as far as I can tell with less panel space being taken up.
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  #35  
Old 03-10-2019, 01:48 PM
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N804RV N804RV is offline
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Mount Vernon, Wa
Posts: 643
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I've been thinking about putting a 7 amp automotive fuse inline with the starter switch and locating it somewhere inconspicuous. That would at least slow down any would be "barefoot bandits".

I'm actually more worried about somebody making off with my avionics.
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  #36  
Old 03-10-2019, 03:36 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyAB View Post
What is the advantage of that setup over using an off/on/momentary start switch? You accomplish the same thing as far as I can tell with less panel space being taken up.
Largely personal preference, but the combined switch does run the risk of inadvertent starter activation, especially by someone not familiar with the system ('hmm; shouldn't the master go all the way up???'). Depending on architecture, a combo switch that can handle start solenoid current could cost quite a bit more than 2 separate switches (and be much harder to source, if it fails while 'on the road').

Everything's a compromise. :-)
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  #37  
Old 03-10-2019, 03:47 PM
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Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
Posts: 2,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N804RV View Post
I've been thinking about putting a 7 amp automotive fuse inline with the starter switch and locating it somewhere inconspicuous. That would at least slow down any would be "barefoot bandits".

I'm actually more worried about somebody making off with my avionics.
Interesting as this is opposite of my priorities. I worry most about some kid getting in an hitting the start button. Not so much that the engine will start, but the prop hitting someone else. So steps taken to not let a push of the start button engaging the starter.

If someone wants to steal avionics, canopy security makes little difference. For this reason I did not put a lock on the canopy (other than a canopy cover when away from home and parked on the ramp). Insurance will pay for avionics, but repairing a broken canopy would be heartbreaking.

Carl
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  #38  
Old 03-10-2019, 04:31 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N804RV View Post
I've been thinking about putting a 7 amp automotive fuse inline with the starter switch and locating it somewhere inconspicuous. That would at least slow down any would be "barefoot bandits".

I'm actually more worried about somebody making off with my avionics.
Simplest thing is just a hidden switch in series with the start PB.

On 'wireless': one of the 'Popular' (either Sci or Mech) mags had an editor's page about hopping in his car with his kid, driving to the store, hitting the start/stop button, making his purchases, coming back out and discovering he didn't have his fob. He'd laid it on the roof of the car at home while he checked on something, and the car cranked up because the fob was close enough for communication. Continued to run when the fob fell off somewhere between home & store, but obviously wouldn't re-start with the fob many blocks away....

Charlie
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  #39  
Old 03-10-2019, 05:49 PM
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Mel Mel is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv7charlie View Post
Simplest thing is just a hidden switch in series with the start PB.
On 'wireless': one of the 'Popular' (either Sci or Mech) mags had an editor's page about hopping in his car with his kid, driving to the store, hitting the start/stop button, making his purchases, coming back out and discovering he didn't have his fob. He'd laid it on the roof of the car at home while he checked on something, and the car cranked up because the fob was close enough for communication. Continued to run when the fob fell off somewhere between home & store, but obviously wouldn't re-start with the fob many blocks away....
Charlie
Not sure what kind of car he had, but if this happens with my cars, when you try to turn the ignition off, the car will tell you, "There is no fob available. Are you sure you want to turn off?"
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  #40  
Old 03-10-2019, 10:04 PM
RandyAB RandyAB is offline
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: St Albert, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv7charlie View Post
Largely personal preference, but the combined switch does run the risk of inadvertent starter activation, especially by someone not familiar with the system ('hmm; shouldn't the master go all the way up???'). Depending on architecture, a combo switch that can handle start solenoid current could cost quite a bit more than 2 separate switches (and be much harder to source, if it fails while 'on the road').

Everything's a compromise. :-)
Thanks for piping in Charliie. I know from previous posts that you are quite knowledgeable about electrical stuff. There are a few Honeywell swithches in the Grainger link provided several posts up that handle 20 amps. How much current are the switches expected to handle? The solenoid does the heavy lifting for the most part does it not?
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