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  #1  
Old 02-24-2019, 03:53 PM
Ed_Wischmeyer's Avatar
Ed_Wischmeyer Ed_Wischmeyer is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,301
Default Going to constant speed prop

So I've got *almost* everything I need:
* What the part number for the clevis fitting that goes on the end of the propeller control cable and connects it to the governor? Since I live in the southeast, it's real easy to order from Spruce...
* There is a two page document that describes how to connect Van's bracket to the governor. The dog ate my copy. Can anybody take pictures of theirs and email it?
* I forgot to order metal grommets for the firewall. Anybody have any favorites?
* And when we punch through the firewall for the propeller cable, where should the cable go?
* Anything else I've forgotten to ask about?

Thanks!

Ed
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  #2  
Old 02-24-2019, 08:46 PM
Carl Froehlich's Avatar
Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
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Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
Posts: 2,596
Default

You need to find someone with the special tool who knows what they are doing to remove the rear prop shaft oil plug (the one with a hole) and replace it with one without hole.

If you have never seen this done or do not have the special tool, do not attempt doing the job as you can easily damage the internal oil tube.

Carl
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  #3  
Old 02-25-2019, 03:21 AM
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rzbill rzbill is offline
 
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Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,692
Default

Ed,
Look for pieces of drawing OP-26 in the dog poop....
PM your e-mail address to me and I can send a .tif scan of rev 2 (2003) which I received around 2010.

It shows the same rod end bearing being used for mixture, throttle and prop control.
It is called "CT Bearing MW-3M" in the Vans part numbering system.
Sorry, I am not in the right place to look at one directly to see if there is a manufacturer's number on it.

*EDIT*
On rereading Ed's post, I realize I do not have the complete set of requested documents handy. I do have the OP-26 which I will send later today. This simply shows the hardware spec'ed by Vans for the job. I do NOT have the 2 page document for bracket mounting he mentions in an electronic form and my binder that may have it is 250 miles from me.
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Last edited by rzbill : 02-25-2019 at 01:15 PM.
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  #4  
Old 02-25-2019, 09:13 AM
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Hartstoc Hartstoc is offline
 
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Location: Sebastopol,CA
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Ed-which governor are you using? If the PCU5000, I have some suggestions for the cable installation. One involves reversing and reinforcing the bend at the cable support end of the Van’s install bracket, resulting in a much more elegant and smooth-operating cable routing. Will take some photos next time I’m at airport.

Also, I got the smoothest operation by penetrating the cable through the firewall fairly high up, level with the top of the governor, and letting it do a gentle, full 270° loop to the left forward of the firewall to lend up pointing straight at the actuator arm on the governor. An S-series stainless steel split-eyeball from Aircraft Spruce worked very well for firewall penetration. I believe I used one with .25” I.D., but they are available for any cable diameter. -Otis
I did find this photo. Note reverse bending of bracket provided much better alignment of cable to gov. Arm. Concerned about it cracking, I added aluminum angle brace. Works very smoothly and allows full stop to stop travel of governor arm:
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Last edited by Hartstoc : 02-25-2019 at 03:23 PM.
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  #5  
Old 02-25-2019, 02:28 PM
rvsxer rvsxer is offline
 
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Location: Inver Grove Hgts, MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed_Wischmeyer View Post
* And when we punch through the firewall for the propeller cable, where

Thanks!

Ed
I switched to a Hartzell a couple of years ago on my RV-6 and I used the cable location shown on the firewall penetrations drawing from Van's. I have a Hartzell governor and it worked perfect. I used the aluminum eyeball grommet from Van's here: https://shop.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bi...roduct=one_eye
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  #6  
Old 02-25-2019, 02:51 PM
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Hartstoc Hartstoc is offline
 
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Location: Sebastopol,CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Froehlich View Post
You need to find someone with the special tool who knows what they are doing to remove the rear prop shaft oil plug (the one with a hole) and replace it with one without hole.

If you have never seen this done or do not have the special tool, do not attempt doing the job as you can easily damage the internal oil tube.

Carl
I believe that some, maybe all, rear plugs with holes have the hole threaded so you can simply screw in a plug. (Some that have been converted TO fixed pitch may have a pierced rear plug and would require removal and replacemend). Mine had no rear plug at all so I inserted a new solid one. Btw- this is not an expansion plug like the one Ed will be removing at the front of the crankshaft. It is an interference fit plug with a wide flange that goes in with the flange facing toward the front of the engine. See P.2 below.
- Otis

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RV-7A (bought)
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  #7  
Old 02-25-2019, 03:17 PM
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titanhank titanhank is offline
 
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Location: Friendswood, Tx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Froehlich View Post
You need to find someone with the special tool who knows what they are doing to remove the rear prop shaft oil plug (the one with a hole) and replace it with one without hole.

If you have never seen this done or do not have the special tool, do not attempt doing the job as you can easily damage the internal oil tube.

Carl

Take this advice. Here is what i found on my crankshat after pulling the front plug out. Some idiot took the rear plug out with a screwdriver and damaged the rod bearing oil tube. It is by the grace of God that this engine did not seize the #1 rod over the years. The entire rebuild of the engine has cost me $19k.

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  #8  
Old 02-25-2019, 03:26 PM
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Hartstoc Hartstoc is offline
 
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Location: Sebastopol,CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvsxer View Post
I switched to a Hartzell a couple of years ago on my RV-6 and I used the cable location shown on the firewall penetrations drawing from Van's. I have a Hartzell governor and it worked perfect. I used the aluminum eyeball grommet from Van's here: https://shop.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bi...roduct=one_eye
Stainless steel is the better choice for firewall penetration. Not very heavy.- O
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Otis Holt-
RV-7A (bought)
Built Monnett Moni
Frmr Test Pilot/Author CAFE APR's:
RV-8A, S-7C, Europa, Glastar.
-2019 VAF donation!!-
"RV-Fun is inversely proportional to RV-Weight!"
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  #9  
Old 02-25-2019, 03:36 PM
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Larco Larco is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: DVT Phoenix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hartstoc View Post
Ed-which governor are you using? If the PCU5000, I have some suggestions for the cable installation. One involves reversing and reinforcing the bend at the cable support end of the Van?s install bracket, resulting in a much more elegant and smooth-operating cable routing. Will take some photos next time I?m at airport.

Also, I got the smoothest operation by penetrating the cable through the firewall fairly high up, level with the top of the governor, and letting it do a gentle, full 270? loop to the left forward of the firewall to lend up pointing straight at the actuator arm on the governor. An S-series stainless steel split-eyeball from Aircraft Spruce worked very well for firewall penetration. I believe I used one with .25? I.D., but they are available for any cable diameter. -Otis
I did find this photo. Note reverse bending of bracket provided much better alignment of cable to gov. Arm. Concerned about it cracking, I added aluminum angle brace. Works very smoothly and allows full stop to stop travel of governor arm:



This is exactly what I did when installing a new Hartzell Gov and it improved the cable movement immensely. Highly recommend following Hartstoc's advice
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