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01-04-2019, 10:16 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce
Brandon,
You can also flip your dies in the dimple machine and you can get rid of the drag marks from hole to hole.
Boomer
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I think the drag marks are caused by the alcad. The outer pure aluminum part of the alcad is very soft. The marks dont matter, but I try to avoid them.
__________________
John S
WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.
Dues paid 2020, worth every penny
RV9A- Status:
Tail 98% done
Wings 98% done
Fuselage Kit 98% done
Finishing Kit 35% canopy done for now
Electrical 5% in work
Firewall Forward 5% in work
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com
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01-04-2019, 10:25 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battleground
Posts: 4,348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkmerrill
I cannot see the inside of the skin because the stiffener is already in place. I?m considering drilling out the stiffener enough that I can inspect the inside surface of the skin.
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Don?t do it! You risk causing far greater damage.
Polish the hole a bit with scotchbrite and it will dull the surface giving you a better idea of the depth of the creases.
Since it is backed by the stiffener, you might try planishing the surface. Most dont have planishing tools, but a cuticle tool ?pusher? will work. It won?t ?fix? it but I have had success making the area smoother.
This is really minor damage.
__________________
Smart People do Stupid things all the time. I know, I've seen me do'em.
RV6 - Builder/Flying
Bucker Jungmann
Fiat G.46 -(restoration in progress, if I have enough life left in me)
RV1 - Proud Pilot.
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01-04-2019, 10:53 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 1,158
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Suggestion
I agree with everyone, it does not look bad at all. Put a rivet in it and see how it pulled together. If not, you could do an oops rivet.
When I built mine I did not like the way the fiberglass top merged into the tailbone. I filled all the rivets from the top skin of the tailcone as well as the rudder and VS. I really liked how it turned out and would do it again. You could do the same for the rudder and VS. Mine look like they are carbon fiber they are so smooth. I did not do the HS or elevators.
Just a thought. Keep pounding away and get flying!
__________________
Scott Schmidt
Salt Lake City, UT
RV-10 N104XP (1280 Hours)
RV-12 N321UT (Sold)
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01-05-2019, 10:01 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce
Brandon,
You can also flip your dies in the dimple machine and you can get rid of the drag marks from hole to hole.
Boomer
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After missing the die once or twice, with the male one on top, I moved the die to the bottom of the frame. Yes, sometimes I get a mild mark, no biggie, but having that male one on the bottom makes locating the hole much more likely.
Dave
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01-06-2019, 10:31 AM
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: St Albert, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 515
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'Tis but a flesh wound!
I did that too. My kids learned a few new words that day.
__________________
______________________
Randy P.
1st time builder
RV10 - QB wings and fuse. Working on cabin top
St. Albert, Alberta, Canada
Reserved:C-GRPY
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01-06-2019, 11:01 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Paule
After missing the die once or twice, with the male one on top, I moved the die to the bottom of the frame. Yes, sometimes I get a mild mark, no biggie, but having that male one on the bottom makes locating the hole much more likely.
Dave
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I leave the female die in the bottom and take the C-frame return spring out.
I can then lift the die and place it in the hole manually, when I hit it I know the hole will be correct. Lifting the male die prevent any scratches.
__________________
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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01-07-2019, 08:20 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battleground
Posts: 4,348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila
I leave the female die in the bottom and take the C-frame return spring out.
I can then lift the die and place it in the hole manually, when I hit it I know the hole will be correct. Lifting the male die prevent any scratches.
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I am with David on this one. Having the mail on the botom allows you to quickly locate the next hole and keep moving along the line efficiently. I never scratched any skins.
Whatever gets the job done but make sure you don't accidentally drop the ram or you are going to be very unhappy with yourself.
__________________
Smart People do Stupid things all the time. I know, I've seen me do'em.
RV6 - Builder/Flying
Bucker Jungmann
Fiat G.46 -(restoration in progress, if I have enough life left in me)
RV1 - Proud Pilot.
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