New Builder RV-12iS

[rv9builder]

Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002

That is another adjustment
If you take it apart and very slightly lengthen the part that has the jaws on it, the jaws will be forced open a little more when it is extended.
If the tip on the tool unthreads slightly, it will cause the same problem because the jaws don't get forced onto the tip quite as far (the tapered cone on the inside of the tip is what spreads the jaws open).

Thanks, Scott!

[randylervold]

Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002

Randy,
High pressure is not needed.
The pressure used has no correlation to how much stroke the tool has on each pull cycle.
We use 50-55 PSI. It does a much smoother pull and doesn't cause the abrupt jump that can cause accidental damage to a skin if you bump it with the tool (especially helpful when letting inexperienced people help with riveting).

Great, will try that this weekend, thanks Scott!

Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002

That is another adjustment
If you take it apart and very slightly lengthen the part that has the jaws on it, the jaws will be forced open a little more when it is extended.
If the tip on the tool unthreads slightly, it will cause the same problem because the jaws don't get forced onto the tip quite as far (the tapered cone on the inside of the tip is what spreads the jaws open).

Is there any adjustment to lengthen the stroke a bit so that it finishes the pull every time rather than half the time in my case?

[rvbuilder2002]

Originally Posted by randylervold

Great, will try that this weekend, thanks Scott!


Is there any adjustment to lengthen the stroke a bit so that it finishes the pull every time rather than half the time in my case?

As some one else mentioned, it is usually related to the hydraulic fluid level or issue with air in the hyd. system.
The tools are a combination pneumatic and hydraulic.
Failure to fully cycle seems to usually be an issue with the hyd. portion of the system.

[rgaynor]

Hi David,

One thing that is missing from the recommended tool list or was is a #20 drill bit and #20 cleco's (about 10 needed). These are required for the horizontal stabilizer and specifically attaching the control horns.

Rob

[Dmadd]

That battery powered rivet puller looks pretty nice.

Any more pireps on that system? Too heavy? same? just right?

Do I even need a compressor if I use that?

Thx

Dennis

[randylervold]

Originally Posted by Dmadd

That battery powered rivet puller looks pretty nice.

Any more pireps on that system? Too heavy? same? just right?

Do I even need a compressor if I use that?

Thx

Dennis

I bought one and use it alternately with m pneumatic unit. The Milwaukee battery powered unit is just a bit lighter, but not having to fight with the air hose makes it more maneuverable. The stroke is slower since it is powered by an electric motor but I don't think that slows productivity much.

To be clear we are referring to the Milwaukee model #2550-20, HERE is link. It is part of their M12 system and I bought a drill that uses the same batteries to go with it, I'm pleased with them both!

[Dmadd]

Thanks Randy. Thats what I will do also. Quieter as well.