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  #11  
Old 12-15-2018, 10:23 AM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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Another piece of advice someone once shared with me is to use as thin a set as you can on the yoke and ram for longer rivets. This ensures that you are working on the power curve of the cam action that is driving the ram. If the whole mess is too tight, the cam action does not have a chance to do its job.
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  #12  
Old 12-15-2018, 02:11 PM
Tommy123 Tommy123 is offline
 
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If you can get a squeezer in there you can set it with a gun. Where you installing a -6 rivet? A bolt would work too.
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  #13  
Old 12-15-2018, 02:40 PM
nohoflyer nohoflyer is offline
 
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The hand squeezer just seems like it would be easier and more consistent. Also, less of a chance for smileys. Am I wrong in this thought? What would be the point of having the squeezer then.
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  #14  
Old 12-15-2018, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nohoflyer View Post
The hand squeezer just seems like it would be easier and more consistent. Also, less of a chance for smileys. Am I wrong in this thought? What would be the point of having the squeezer then.
I squeeze everything possible to squeeze that makes sense. Everyone has their own style and preference, you will find yours. To each their own.
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---------------------------------------------------------------------
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Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
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  #15  
Old 12-15-2018, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy123 View Post
If you can get a squeezer in there you can set it with a gun. Where you installing a -6 rivet? A bolt would work too.
Van's does not recommend mixing different fastener types where they were not part of the original design. Something about different fastener types won't share the shear load the same/properly and could weaken the overall assembly.
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---------------------------------------------------------------------
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Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
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  #16  
Old 12-15-2018, 04:54 PM
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fl-mike fl-mike is offline
 
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Another trick if you are having issues with tipping the shop side because the rivet is on the long side and it’s hard to stay square is to put a -3 cup set on the tail side for the initial squeeze. It ensures you are square and starts the shop head. Then switch to a flat set to finish. If you have a row,you can start them all with the cup set and them come back with the flat. No need to keep switching on each rivet. I used this trick on the forward lower longerons on the 8 that are at an odd angle. Worked great. Give it a try.

Update: It may have been a -4 cup set. The -3 seems too small. It's been a few months!
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Last edited by fl-mike : 12-15-2018 at 07:49 PM.
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  #17  
Old 12-15-2018, 05:31 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brantel View Post
I squeeze everything possible to squeeze that makes sense. Everyone has their own style and preference, you will find yours. To each their own.
Funny. To each his own is right. I drive with gun and bar more often. The only time I use a squeezer is a row of rivets all exactly the same length and thickness of material.
Guess you get comfortable with techniques.
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  #18  
Old 12-15-2018, 07:43 PM
rv9builder rv9builder is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fl-mike View Post
Another trick is to put a -3 cup set on the tail side for the initial squeeze.
Cool idea, Mike. I'm going to try it!

Thanks!
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  #19  
Old 12-15-2018, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv9builder View Post
Cool idea, Mike. I'm going to try it!

Thanks!
Hmmm, now that I think about it, it may have been a -4 cup set. It's been a few months!
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  #20  
Old 12-15-2018, 10:37 PM
rv9builder rv9builder is offline
 
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I'll try both!
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