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12-12-2018, 10:03 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,027
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I'm pretty sure the RV-10 plans specify that a piece of 1/8" thick foam core material (supplied in the kit) with the edges scarfed, be bonded to the inside surface of the door and then a layer of glass cloth epoxied over it.
Makes the door as stiff as an .063 aluminum one.
__________________
Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.
Scott McDaniels
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop Manager
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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12-12-2018, 10:36 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002
I'm pretty sure the RV-10 plans specify that a piece of 1/8" thick foam core material (supplied in the kit) with the edges scarfed, be bonded to the inside surface of the door and then a layer of glass cloth epoxied over it.
Makes the door as stiff as an .063 aluminum one.
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Yep. It is extremely stiff when built to plans. I can't imagine it bowing in flight.
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Kyle Boatright
Marietta, GA
2001 RV-6 N46KB
2019(?) RV-10
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12-13-2018, 06:03 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackinMichigan
The access door on top of the cowl has a significant bow to it while in flight. I've made the habit of taping it down with military grade duct tape, but that won't be an option once I get it painted. I feel as though I need to stiffen this door somehow. It's contoured to the cowl, so a simple fat bar stiffener won't work here. Anybody got any ideas?
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Being a builder I assume you have some epoxy. Email your address and I will send a patch of 3mm Soric - it is expensive to buy a small portion and I have scrap that big. Trust me - if the door is flimsy and the hinge is not part of the problem, this will stiffen the part and it is light too. Easy to do, really easy. One layer of glass and use peel ply or preload the glass so it is minimal thickness.
Do have some glass left over too?
Bill
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Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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12-13-2018, 07:00 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
Posts: 2,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002
I'm pretty sure the RV-10 plans specify that a piece of 1/8" thick foam core material (supplied in the kit) with the edges scarfed, be bonded to the inside surface of the door and then a layer of glass cloth epoxied over it.
Makes the door as stiff as an .063 aluminum one.
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Please provide the part number.
Thanks,
Carl |
12-13-2018, 07:41 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Froehlich
Please provide the part number.
Thanks,
Carl
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It is called out as " cowl-10-01B" on page 47-10 of the RV-10 plans.
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Kyle Boatright
Marietta, GA
2001 RV-6 N46KB
2019(?) RV-10
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12-13-2018, 08:09 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 2,186
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Door
I ended up trying the foam core on a test piece and compared it to a test piece using SORIC.
The SORIC piece was MUCH more rigid than the piece using the foam core...
Just a data point...
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Bob
Aerospace Engineer '88
RV-10
Structure - 90% Done
Cabin Top - Aaarrghhh...
EFII System 32 - Done
297 HP Barrett Hung
ShowPlanes Cowl with Skybolts Fitted - Beautiful
Wiring...
Dues+ Paid 2019,...Thanks DR+
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12-13-2018, 08:55 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: West Linn, Oregon
Posts: 1,351
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Is the bowing along one of the edges or truly in the center of the door? I have a very stiff door, but I experience a slight bowing at the rear corner on the same side as my latch. Since my latch is in the center of the door edge, the aft end is bowing on my due to the high pressure in the upper cowl. If I had it to do again, I would have installed two latches, each near the corner to mitigate this issue.
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CharlieWaffles - But you can call me " Mark"
RV-10
N928MT
Flying - AKA Still Tinkering
Build Project Site
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12-13-2018, 09:34 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 5,277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjb
No flight test yet, but I'm following the recommendation from elsewhere on the site to save the cut out piece of the cowling and bond it to the bottom of the oil door. This extra piece of glass should significantly stiffen the structure (stiffness goes up with the cube of the thickness; should be at least 8 times stiffer!)
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+1
I did this on the 6 and it makes a very stiff door that won't bow.
Larry
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N64LR - RV-6A / IO-320, Flying as of 8/2015
N11LR - RV-10, Flying as of 12/2019
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12-13-2018, 09:39 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 5,277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle Boatright
It is called out as " cowl-10-01B" on page 47-10 of the RV-10 plans.
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That's interesting. I don't remember seeing this in the finishing kit.
Larry
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N64LR - RV-6A / IO-320, Flying as of 8/2015
N11LR - RV-10, Flying as of 12/2019
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12-13-2018, 09:54 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketman1988
I ended up trying the foam core on a test piece and compared it to a test piece using SORIC.
The SORIC piece was MUCH more rigid than the piece using the foam core...
Just a data point...
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I guess there is nothing wrong with much more rigid, but in the context of RV kit engineering, just rigid enough is best  (especially when it means using an inexpensive piece of foam that takes no additional effort to obtain.
The RV-10 prototype has 2000+ hrs now and its oil door was made exactly as shown in the plans. It does not bow up in flight from plenum pressure.
__________________
Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.
Scott McDaniels
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop Manager
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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