Worktables

[Bruce]

One of the Phil's used my design on the DRDT-2. Works good for me
and its on my web site.
If the MDF gets bad, mine is 1 year old and I have 1000 holes in it,
paint all over the place and if it gets too bad I will replace it. (NOT)

These are disposable tables for me made out of left over lumber just
had to buy the casters, paint, and MDF.
I went to a store and bought a piece of 3/8 x 4'x 1 1/2" flat iron and
use it for my backrivet plate. It cost about $9.00. Works great. Just
cut it into the table.
The -2 table is great because you can flip the -2 over while not using
it and put the long pieces on it and I use it for a paint table and other
things.

[JohnR]

I built my large table once the wings kit got here. I used the wing crate for storage below the top and put the lid on it for a shelf. I put a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 inch plywood for a top and was planning on putting a sheet of MDF on it but never have got around to it. I am just now starting to rivet the center and forward fuselage to the aft and so far it has worked great for me.

[craigvince]

When I started setting up my workshop, I couldn't find a place to store my table saw, so I decided to hide it. I took an old solid wood desk top and mounted some 3/4 angle to the bottom of it. Now it just sits on the table saw, and the angle keeps it from moving around, but I can lift it off easily if I need to use the saw.

[videobobk]

I agree with the overhang in front, but not on the sides or back I can bolt mine together to form a 2 X 10' table, a 4 X 5' table or set them in an "L". The "L" is great for smaller stuff like the emp. I used lag screws in three of the four legs of one table and on all four corners of the second so I can level nicely with just a wrench. There is little need for castors with 2 X 5' tables and they are big enough at least to build an RV-9A. I did. BTW, I used finished plywood but wouldn't if doing it again. Makes me feel bad when I drill into it. Really like the idea of the C-frame between tables. Will work on that for the next one.

Bob Kelly

[cytoxin]

built mine with 4 inch channel and 3/4 inch plywood on top, channel faces out on three side except front which has a piece of polished 4 inch angle 4 feet long for back riveting things like AEX wedges into control surfaces.countersunk a 8"x18"X5/8" plate of steel into the work surfacefor back riveting ...stay on the plate super strong and level no matter where i put it.. i only used such heavy iron because it was left over from another project. also have a portable wing stand that i will be tossing after i paint in a couple of months. its 4 inch channel as well.

[N53LW]

I used a 3'x7' solid core wood door, added an extra hinge to the 3 already there and mounted a 2"x10" for a break for bending empenage skins. I also routed out 6"x3'x 1/4" deep place in the middle of the door for a 1/4" steel plate for back riveting. The door was mounted on 1/2" angle welded frame w/casters. It works great and is portable.

[Dave Cole]

All of the comments and creative details are fine, but your workbench isn't worth wasting time over. Don't overthink this, just do it!

I built two EAA Chapter 1000 Workbenches exactly per the plans (with the exception of using coarse thread construction screws instead of woodscrews).

They have proven to be perfect for the job in every way. I wouldn't change a thing.