Worktables

[prkaye]

I got an idea from someone on this site a while back and made two smaller tables on castors, with shelves at just the right height so I can slap a brace between them and put my DDR2 between the two tables at the correct height. When not using hte DDR2 I can take it out, and push the tables together to make one longer table.

As for leveling, I have a garage floor with a considerable slope, so leveling is a pain... always shimming with random boards and stuff. Am trying to come up with a better solution by figuring out a way to make the castors on all my table legs height-adjustable. Not quite sure how to do this. The drawing below shows what I want to do... any ideas on how??

[DaX]

McMaster sells threaded stem casters - you could probably come up with some way to sink a coupling nut or a nut insert in the legs of your table, then just use a jam nut to lock in the height you choose.

[vmirv8bldr]

Phil, you can just buy adjustable casters. They are machine threaded. Slightly under-drill the hole in the leg, and the threads will work just fine. The casters are significantly more expensive though, around $35 (US) each if I remember correctly. I used them for my portable work table, which is mostly a multi-purpose table. Right now, it's the base for my prints.

I built a large stationary table for primary building. It uses four removable 2'x4' sheets of 3/4" MDF for the surface. I built a channel in the middle for the C-Frame dimpler and it works like a charm. Level? Probably not 100%. Flat? Of yes, very.

I can drill into the MDF, and just pop it out to replace it when necessary. Home Depot and Lowes sells pre-cut 2'x4' MDF, so replacement is simple. I can pretty much fit a wing on this thing.

Sturdy enough to dance on.


For stuff that requires an absolutley flat surface, like flaps and ailerons, I made a temporary jig with 2x4's and MDF Sheets. The 2x4's were checked for straightness and then used to brace the MDF, which very flat, but bends too easily.

(Sorry, I don't have pictures posted. If you want photo's, PM me.)

[jcoloccia]

Or you can chop off the legs right above the casters and reattach it with a threaded rod from Aviation Depot.

Just a thought. Use at your own risk.

[prkaye]

Does MDF swell if it gets wet? I used malomine form my table tops which repels water, but unfortunately the malomine coating chips off fairly easily. I suppose you could put a coat of verithane on an MDF table?

[lorne green]

Oh ya, mdf will swell even if you spill a little coffee on it! its a sponge! As mentioned in earlier posts, just seal the top of your mdf with your favorite sealer (varathane, urethathane..I wouldn't paint it, I think you'll get better service with a clear coating of what ever..less face chipping) IMHO Dont be tempted to put on multiple coats. I think you just want to seal it not build up a mill thinkness that could chip off. Let the hardness of the mdf top take the pounding, instead of the built up urethane which could just chip away

I used a commericially available banquet table with steel frame and foldable legs. It came with a melamine top, which is taking a bit of a beating but it will survive my entire build. It's a little low but a lot of the work one can do sitting down.

[TShort]

I made MDF tops and coated them with some leftover polyurethane (Minwax). They are holding up great, even to spills.

Keep in mind that flat and level are not necessarily the same; you need a flat surface (MDF serves very well) for the flaps, ailerons, etc. but it really doesn't matter much if it is level - you could build on an incline and it wouldn't matter much.

T.

[WSBuilder]

Originally Posted by prkaye

The drawing below shows what I want to do... any ideas on how??

Phil,
You could mount standard wheels to a large hinge half and bolt the other half to the bottom of the table leg. Drill & thread the wheel-mounted half for a hex-head screw/bolt. As you turn the bolt into the other half it would open the hinge and give adjustment to that leg.

Another idea that I incorporated into a mitresaw cabinet I built would be to bolt an angle to the side of the leg and use a carriage bolt - head down - through a threaded hole in the horizontal flange to level the table. Slot the up end for a screwdriver or just jam two nuts together and use a wrench/ratchet to rotate the bolt. It would raise the wheel off the ground and prevent it from moving until you lowered it.
Just ideas, dude.

[hydroguy2]

MDF top. Full 4x8 sheet. I have plenty of room in my shop. Yes on the overhangs. shelf underneath to store parts for current work. Also I use a smooth, spongy-rubber drawer liner material tossed on top for cushioning and nonslip. This works better than carpet, you can clean it off with the airhose or wisk broom and can be removed easily to drill into table. (carpet loves aluminum shavings). I did not use castors, I wanted mine rock solid. It could double as a dance floor.

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/worklo...photo_number=2

[RV7Guy]

My project is done but I built a 4x8 work bench on casters for my RC projects. I built a steel frame and mounted 6 wheels on it. The frame was topped with a piece of 5/8" MDF. I then mounted base cabinets on the corners and a 4x8 piece of finished and edge banded MDF.

I'm going to mount a power strip on each end as well. Now I have two cabinets with drawers and two cabinets that have one shelf in them.

I would definitely stay away from particle board. MDF is a much better choice. If you wipe up spills immediately there won't be a problem. Particle board will swell up like a tic if you get it wet.

I'll get a couple of pictures and post.