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12-06-2018, 12:49 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Naples, FL
Posts: 59
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Best Sikaflex application
For quite some time I've been following several threads on installing a canopy with Sikaflex. I've got my canopy fit, taped and roughed up. I'm using spacers. Which is the best method; 1) apply the adhesive to the canopy and drop the frame in and clamp; 2) apply the Sikaflex to the frame, drop it in the canopy and clamp; or 3) clamp it all together and squeeze Sikaflex in the voids? I know I have to thoroughly clean all surfaces and apply 209 primer but what method works best or is there another method other than above?
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12-06-2018, 01:18 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Launceston, Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 774
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3. I can't imagine anyone doing it differently without having a huge mess on their hands.
Tom
RV-7 slider
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12-06-2018, 03:22 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Hannover, Germany
Posts: 123
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Option 3
Option 3 worked perfect for me.
Put spacers in, place canopy on frame, put electric tape on to get clean edges, ?spot-weld? with sika flex on numerous places, let it cure, remove spacers, fill voids, remove tape, let cure.
Good luck!!
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RV-8 QB Germany
ECi XIO-360
Dynon SV
Flying since 11th July 2020
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12-06-2018, 03:25 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: San Marcos, CA
Posts: 415
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3 !!!
Oh, 3 for sure. After you finish, you will understand that the two other methods are suicide missions.
The stuff is so tenacious, that any voids won't be an issue at all.
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~Chuck
DG-800S Sailplane
QB RV-8 -- Working on final wiring and the engine
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12-06-2018, 07:39 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 2,370
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I would do two passes. Get the main bead down, put the canopy on and get it in place and clamped, then walk away. Come back within 24 hours, unclamp it, pull out the spacers then round two is to fill the spaces and get a nice fillet in place. Pull the tape before the Sikaflex skins up too much and let it sit to cure.
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12-06-2018, 08:21 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Molalla, Oregon
Posts: 955
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I agree with Bruce Hill. I applied the Sika on the frame, then carefully dropped the canopy in place. A partner is a must. You apply less Sika rather than more, and come along later and apply a second application to fill in all the voids. I used electrical tape as masking tape, and I didn't have a mess at all.
Much more can be seen on my website, along with lots of pictures and discussion, starting here:
SikaFlex Application for the Canopy
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12-06-2018, 09:03 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posts: 696
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I?ve got to break from the last 2 posts. There is a lot of ?adjusting? to get the canopy where it belongs. Besides there isn?t any way to predict the location of the electrical tape for a clean edge.
Spacers, clamp, adjust, more or less spacers, more clamps, step back and ponder where it?s at, adjust, have an adult beverage, quit for the day. Come back the next day and finish clamping. THEN tape off the cut line.
Follow Sika finishing procedures as described in other threads.
You only get 1 chance to get it right.
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Blain
R-22 sold.
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12-07-2018, 03:36 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: neustadt ontario
Posts: 118
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I used method 3 for the canopy frame after having riveted it in place. Before doing this I stress relieved the clamped assembly by heating in my home made oven.. 190 F for four hour then slow 2 1/2 hour cool down. The rolll bar will be spot glue then remove spacers and finish. I used activator then 207 primer then sikaflex.
I used my local Speedy Glass guy to apply all this stuff. Cost me 20 bucks and a bottle of wine fore a nice neat job!
Jack
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12-07-2018, 07:11 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Victoria, Tx
Posts: 421
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I agree with Blane. I used option 3, clamped it all up, lots of adjusting, custom clamp building, pondered, put a first bead of Sika, pulled the spacers, and then finished with a nice bead. You can check my website link below under the canopy section. Lots of pictures.
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12-07-2018, 07:51 AM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: LL10, Naperville, IL.
Posts: 68
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Spacers
A spacer method I found to work really well was to use tiny (about 3/16" square) blocks of basswood or hard balsa stuck to the canopy frame with cyanoacrylate. These are easily sanded down to adjust the height and are left in place when gluing on the canopy. When you are happy with the alignment, take off the canopy, mask up and paint on the primer right over the spacers. Use method #3 to tack the canopy in place, then do the filleting later as a separate step. Areas where the fillets are not right can masked off again, sanded with 80 grit, primed and recoated with Sikaflex.
Stewart Willoughby, 6. Painting is next.
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