New Builder RV-12iS

[DaveWelch]

Originally Posted by Timberwolf

Instead of a pneumatic puller, you may consider the Milwaukee 12v puller. Best tool I purchased this year. No hoses to get in the way and will pull with only 1 squeeze where most pneumatics take 2 or more due to a short stroke.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

Not to take anything away from the 12v pullers...If your pneumatic does not pull in one stroke, check the setup/adjustment and consider higher air pressure. My pneumatic purchased from Cleaveland worked just fine. Would have been nice to "lose" the hose once in a while though, and depending on your situation easier to rivet without having a hose draped all over the place. All together now...Who would miss the noise of a compressor? <crickets>
You would still need one occasionally for the driven rivets and...oh, the tires!

[randylervold]

Originally Posted by DaveWelch

Not to take anything away from the 12v pullers...If your pneumatic does not pull in one stroke, check the setup/adjustment and consider higher air pressure. My pneumatic purchased from Cleaveland worked just fine. Would have been nice to "lose" the hose once in a while though, and depending on your situation easier to rivet without having a hose draped all over the place. All together now...Who would miss the noise of a compressor? <crickets>
You would still need one occasionally for the driven rivets and...oh, the tires!

Didn’t know the pneumatic pullers were adjustable, I’ll check the manual. Mine requires a second trigger pull about half the time. Already running it at 90 psi.

[jpflys1]

We use these at work, great tool.Much better option than pneumatic.

[Bob Y]

Make sure there is adequate oil level in the reservoir. Mine stops pulling in one shot when the oil is low.

[DaveWelch]

Originally Posted by randylervold

Didn?t know the pneumatic pullers we?re adjustable, I?ll check the manual. Mine requires a second trigger pull about half the time. Already running it at 90 psi.

Yes, check the user's manual first. Probably needs disassembly and cleaning. the pulling "teeth" get clogged up with slivers and flakes from the mandrels. After cleaning, I learned to use only very light oil or a "dry lube" in the pulling head. Anything heavier holds the flakes and dust to accumulate faster. The user guide should have instructions to adjust the stroke, but first check the oil level. The tool can't give you a full stroke if the oil is low. Also, seems like 50-60 lbs pressure has been enough to pull completely without the thing jumping when the mandrel breaks loose.
so...1) clean it, 2)check the oil, 3) lower the pressure, then 4) if necessary adjust the stroke mechanism.
Best of Luck!
Dave

[rv9builder]

Originally Posted by Bob Y

Make sure there is adequate oil level in the reservoir. Mine stops pulling in one shot when the oil is low.

Mine, too. Once I added hydraulic jack oil, it workd fine again.

(Now all I need to do is figure out how to get it to always release the stems after pulling a rivet. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't.)

[David Fuchs]

What about a C-Frame Tool?

Any recommendations?

[Bob Y]

Just about finished with my iS fuselage kit and have yet to wish I had one.

[rvbuilder2002]

Originally Posted by randylervold

Didn?t know the pneumatic pullers were adjustable, I?ll check the manual. Mine requires a second trigger pull about half the time. Already running it at 90 psi.

Randy,
High pressure is not needed.
The pressure used has no correlation to how much stroke the tool has on each pull cycle.
We use 50-55 PSI.
It does a much smoother pull and doesn't cause the abrupt jump that can cause accidental damage to a skin if you bump it with the tool (especially helpful when letting inexperienced people help with riveting).

[rvbuilder2002]

Originally Posted by rv9builder

(Now all I need to do is figure out how to get it to always release the stems after pulling a rivet. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't.)

That is another adjustment
If you take it apart and very slightly lengthen the part that has the jaws on it, the jaws will be forced open a little more when it is extended.
If the tip on the tool unthreads slightly, it will cause the same problem because the jaws don't get forced onto the tip quite as far (the tapered cone on the inside of the tip is what spreads the jaws open).