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12-03-2018, 08:31 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Newport, TN
Posts: 7,496
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Looking at EZ-Burr tool, have questions from those that have used them.
I am looking at purchasing one or two of the EZ-Burr tools.
I like the design of them better than the Cogsdill version. Seems less likely to jam up and make a mess.
The two part numbers I have picked out are:
for #30 holes - EZL0129-02
for #40 holes - EZL0098-02
extra blades - L1A-02
I don't see any way to specify rake angle on the blades. Anyone have any advice? Is the default fine for our use or do I need a zero rake blade if offered?
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12-03-2018, 09:29 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Ocean City, MD
Posts: 78
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Have you thought about something like this?
Admittedly you have to run it twice front and back to deburr, however it's cheap and low maintenance. In a pinch or for NAS1097 rivets on nutplates they make a great countersink cutter.
__________________
RV-10 - Empennage 95%
QB Fuse - Working
QB Wings - Delivered
San Diego, CA
www.wheelswelded.com
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12-03-2018, 09:59 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Newport, TN
Posts: 7,496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by echozulu
Have you thought about something like this?
Admittedly you have to run it twice front and back to deburr, however it's cheap and low maintenance. In a pinch or for NAS1097 rivets on nutplates they make a great countersink cutter.
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Yes I have one and it is great for what it is. I built an RV7 with similar.
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12-03-2018, 10:24 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Southington, Ct
Posts: 86
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according to the application chart L1A-02 is good for aluminum
http://www.ezburr.com/products/pdf/h...blade_info.pdf
I use them, they are pretty good. You still need to be pretty careful because if it jams you will just ream out the hole. Hasn't happened to me but read that somewhere. Its easy to over do it by hand. When I run these on CNC machines at work its simple to dial it in just right and the tool goes in and out faster than you can see it. Doing it by hand on an aircraft skin is a different animal. I set the blade to just be barley potruding from the shank (approx .003) and go slow. This prevents the chamfer from being any bigger than about .003. I still go over it lightly with scotch brite and my burrs are minial to begin with as I ream everything with a carbide reamer.
__________________
RV-7A QB under construction
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12-03-2018, 10:26 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Newport, TN
Posts: 7,496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mlidzct
according to the application chart L1A-02 is good for aluminum
http://www.ezburr.com/products/pdf/h...blade_info.pdf
I use them, they are pretty good. You still need to be pretty careful because if it jams you will just ream out the hole. Hasn't happened to me but read that somewhere. Its easy to over do it by hand. When I run these on CNC machines at work its simple to dial it in just right and the tool goes in and out faster than you can see it. Doing it by hand on an aircraft skin is a different animal. I set the blade to just be barley potruding from the shank (approx .003) and go slow. This prevents the chamfer from being any bigger than about .003. I still go over it lightly with scotch brite and my burrs are minial to begin with as I ream everything with a carbide reamer.
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I have not seen any reports of this brand jamming up. I have on the Cogsdill ones though. The design of these seems much more simple and less likely to jam.
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12-03-2018, 07:15 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Dalton, Ohio
Posts: 31
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E-Z Burr
These come in very handy at times and work well.
Never had a jam problem.
Gary R. Kohler
RV-7A
Flying at long last...
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12-03-2018, 07:48 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 3,343
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I have a full set of Ez burr and love it. It is specially hand for holes that you have a hard access to the opposite side.
__________________
Mehrdad
N825SM RV7A - IO360M1B - SOLD
N825MS RV14A - IO390 - Flying
Dues paid
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