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11-25-2018, 06:21 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: ND
Posts: 452
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Special tools for canopy and window
Since I have to order some tools and hardware anyhow, I am curious if anyone has tips on tools to make the canopy and window build go easier and/or to make them more reliable in the long-term. I've been told that a countersink in plexiglass will be more likely to crack with a certain head angle vs. another head angle but the person who told me that didn't remember the specifics of what does and doesn't work. Any other tips are also welcome. Drill bits, countersink bits, special types of clamps, etc. I am going to spend a lot of time looking through the canopy so I want it to turn out good. Thanks as always!
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11-25-2018, 10:27 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Colorado
Posts: 168
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Greetings.
Be careful if it's cold where you are: Keep your plexi warm and happy during cutting, drilling etc.
You can follow my canopy fitting experience here.
Though you can fashion your own, I had Great Lakes Aero make me #40 and #36 plexi bits which give a dubbed off zero rake angle and slow spiral polished flutes. The #27 plexi bit I had from Avery (he's since retired) had a more aggressive rake and a few #27 holes chipped/cracked (though I believe that was due to the metal underneath the plexi rather than the bit itself).
Relative to the countersinks, you are committed to using the standard 100 degree bits that will accept the AN507C632R6 screws. Fear not.
Also, don't forget to paint your glareshield before you attach the canopy. A friend of mine neglected that step. It's not insurmountable, but it's best not to be "that guy"

__________________
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http://rv-14a.blogspot.com/
Go here for my free, public-domain, comprehensive GRT LOG and CSV flight data analysis program. Also swallows CSV files from Garmin, Dynon and AFS. Create complete and versatile graphs and Google Earth KMZ files based on your flight.
My RV-14A's POH and checklists (annual and flight) are here.
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11-26-2018, 08:26 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: ND
Posts: 452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by control
I got special plexi drills but was not really happy with them. I then tested and came to the conclusion that ordinary drill bits that was run into concrete for 30 seconds worked muh better than the dedicated bits 
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How many experiments did you do before you stumbled on that solution? This sounds like the first guy who figured out fermenting grain to make beer, who somehow thought it was a good idea to try drinking the stuff that fermented with that one particular strain of yeast after all his friends and family got sick from different strains of yeast contaminating their grain. I suppose it's safe to save up my used drill bits from aluminum work and abuse them a bit more to prepare them for plexiglass?
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11-26-2018, 10:09 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Leesburg, VA
Posts: 492
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There is a video on the EAA web site on plexi and how to make your own bits. I did and they worked fine.
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11-26-2018, 10:37 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 5,297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamtheari
How many experiments did you do before you stumbled on that solution? This sounds like the first guy who figured out fermenting grain to make beer, who somehow thought it was a good idea to try drinking the stuff that fermented with that one particular strain of yeast after all his friends and family got sick from different strains of yeast contaminating their grain. I suppose it's safe to save up my used drill bits from aluminum work and abuse them a bit more to prepare them for plexiglass?
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I did several tests and proceeded with the following approach. All holes started with a standard #40 drill bit. Proceed much slower than normal, allowing the drill tip to generate a lot of friction. This results in the plexi getting soft at the drill bit interface. Purposely holding the drill steady with almost no forward pressure helps to avoid grabbing. All holes then enlarged with a quality uni-bit. The uni-bits are quite safe on plexi due to their cutting style.
I experienced no "grabbing" tendency and had no cracks or other issues. Id did wait until summer to do this work to avoid issues with cold plexi.
Not necessarily advocating this approach, but offering experience for other to consider. I am unaware of how sharp my #40 bit was. It wasn't dull, but I don't recall how much use it had when I did this work, however, I am sure it wasn't new.
Larry
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N64LR - RV-6A / IO-320, Flying as of 8/2015
N11LR - RV-10, Flying as of 12/2019
Last edited by lr172 : 11-26-2018 at 10:44 AM.
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11-26-2018, 11:06 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Posts: 1,643
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I did the same, ran the bits into a concrete block for about 15 seconds and they worked great, didn't grab.
__________________
RV-14A #140376
N196 (Flying)
2019 Bronze Lindy
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11-26-2018, 07:24 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 28
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Tapered Drill Reamer
After trying to dull a few bits, I saw someone else on here recommended tapered drill reamer bits. They are perfect for this and easily drilled through metal and plexi while working on the canopy with extremely clean holes and no cracking.
I got mine custom from Superior Tool Service. The 3 inch ones worked great. You can find all sizes on their website.
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11-27-2018, 08:24 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: ND
Posts: 452
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What tools should I pick up for smoothing/rounding the edges of the plexiglass? Just waterproof sandpaper or is there some kind of a scraper that would be easier or safer?
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11-27-2018, 02:54 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Midland, mi
Posts: 962
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plus 1 for the cabinet scraper. I actually used it to trim the back edge of the canopy. It took a while, but i had sections where very little was needed to be removed.
__________________
Ken Stockman
Midland, MI
EAA Chapter 1093 member
FaceBook Page: Ken's RV-14
RV-14a (serial number 140073)
N73XP
Plane at hangar and the wings ON.
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