Tight rivets in rudder

[galt1074]

Folks I'm at my wit's end on these. I've been working two hours on four rivets and I can't figure out how to set them.

The aft four rivets in the top spar on the rudder (R-903 tip rib) are what's got me beat right now.

My thin-nosed, no hole squeezer isn't even close to fitting. I have tried to use the end of a modified crow-bar as a bucking bar but it just vibrates and messes up the shop head. I've tried the back rivet plate and the same crow bar with my rivet gun and with a 5lb sledge.

None of these does anything but scratch all the primer off and cause me to drill out buggered up rivets.

Can anyone tell me what they did to set these in enough detail to get me past this step?

Nothing I've done so far in this kit has been this frustrating.

Greg

[mturnerb]

Have you considered using MK-321BS rivets?

[jcarne]

I just used MK-319-BS rivets there.

[galt1074]

Originally Posted by mturnerb

Have you considered using MK-321BS rivets?

I have but I've seen other builder manage to get AN rivets in there. I'll probably just go ahead and use the blind rivets but I sure would like to know how others have managed to get those rivets set. It's a pride thing I guess.

Greg

[Kiwi7]

I used my backing plate that I use for back riveting. I clamped the plate to the bench and carefully held to edge of the rudder against the backing plate and slowing and careful riveted. It was difficult and like you a couple were drilled out but working carefully and slowly managed to get there.

[fl-mike]

The trailing edge skin-to-rib rivets? Not sure by your description "in the to".

[galt1074]

Originally Posted by fl-mike

The trailing edge skin-to-rib rivets? Not sure by your description "in the to".

sorry, "in the to" should be "in the top"

[galt1074]

Originally Posted by Kiwi7

I used my backing plate that I use for back riveting. I clamped the plate to the bench and carefully held to edge of the rudder against the backing plate and slowing and careful riveted. It was difficult and like you a couple were drilled out but working carefully and slowly managed to get there.

Tony, I've seen people talk about that technique on here but I can't seem to get something on those rivets to drive them.
I had the last two rivets taped on, then laid on the back rivet plate. I then used a crow bar that I polished one side of and put it on the shop head of the rivet. I tried using a hammer and I tried using my rivet gun to drive the shop head but I only seemed to scratch off all the primer and put scratches in the aluminum and kind of mangle the rivet but it never really set.
Got any pictures of how you set it up.
I'll post a picture of what I tried later.
Thank you for the tip.

Greg

[fl-mike]

if it's the aft rivets in the tip rib, I use this to start the squeeze. Them finish off with the no-hole. A few bucks and some quality time at the grinding wheel. Have come in handy a few times over the years. I don't have the strength to fully set with these, but gets them started, which gives you some room to work with.

[galt1074]

Mike, that's a great idea. I'm going to look into making some of those.

Everyone, thanks for the help. I just put blind rivets in there and moved on.