Primer war...not really...just a question

[lr172]

Originally Posted by jacoby

Glad to hear SPI is getting some use. I've used it on cars and professionally on industrial equipment and it works great and is extremely easy to spray. I used it in an engine bay and it's been highly scratch resistant and hasn't been affected by gas, oil, or brake fluid.

I like to use it before filler and after as a sealant & light pore filler. It can also be used as a seal coat when thinned a bit.

I love the stuff. I have painted several project cars and the 10 will be my second plane painted with SPI. I also left the SPI epoxy as my final interior coat. 600 hours on the 6A and not a scratch, excluding a couple of couging accidents on my behalf. It is tough as nails. Plus, you can't get better support than what Barry provides. It sounds like more and more aviation folks are now using his stuff, last I talked with him.

Larry

[jacoby]

Originally Posted by lr172

I love the stuff. I have painted several project cars and the 10 will be my second plane painted with SPI. I also left the SPI epoxy as my final interior coat. 600 hours on the 6A and not a scratch, excluding a couple of couging accidents on my behalf. It is tough as nails. Plus, you can't get better support than what Barry provides. It sounds like more and more aviation folks are now using his stuff, last I talked with him.

Larry

I was actually wary of it at first because of all the reviews I saw on forums made me think it was someone paying for reviews. It's also a better value than other products, especially when you consider the price includes shipping. I have to say it lives up to its reputation.

Agreed on support from Barry and the people who answer the phones. I called them a few weeks ago to ask if it would survive in the bilge of a boat and they said it would love it. The heat helps curing. I switched to it from PPG Aquapon 35. Ordered it and it showed up the next day.

I used their waterborne cleaner for the first time and got some fish eyes though. That may be from me using the towel too much though and not using my usual Wypall X80 towels. I'll give it another shot.

It sands nicely for an epoxy as long as you are in the window. The only thing I've found that will attack it is phosphoric acid. I was treating some rust with it and got some overspray droplets on primed parts and it made perfect little divots where the SPI was eaten away.

I used it to coat the fuselage on a 2/3 Jenny and it's held up so far, although it's yet to fly.

The TDS says it can be applied to bare aluminum. Do you scuff first?

[mciaglia]

I have agreed to have my -10 painted by the world famous Jonathan McCormick from Plane Schemers and Evoke aviation. I spoke with him last night and we discussed the various options, products and potential pitfalls of using an inferior product. He suggested using Azko since I have already used it extensively in the build. Azko is designed to adhere to metal not fiberglass. He suggested a surface prep of 220 sandpaper on the fiberglass with scotchbrite on the aluminum or 320 grit. Said to spray a very light coat and actually have it extend onto the "shinny" unprepped metal. He said 99.9% of it will be sanded away by his shop anyway.

He also changed my mind about flying before painting. I was actually planning on trailering the plane to his shop, having it painted, trailering it back then doing final assembly and flying. He HIGHLY recommended flying before painting. He said it helps some of the joints between the different materials to "settle" allowing a better long term paint outcome.

Guess I'll be flying a "military" looking RV10 with the green Azko on various areas.

[lr172]

Originally Posted by jacoby

The TDS says it can be applied to bare aluminum. Do you scuff first?

Yes, very important step. Read what I wrote about alum prep in my earlier post.

Larry

[jacoby]

Originally Posted by lr172

Yes, very important step. Read what I wrote about alum prep in my earlier post.

Larry

I see. What do you use to scuff?