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10-03-2018, 02:54 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Portugal
Posts: 80
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Remove the rear inner cap from the crankshaft
Hello,
I am changing my crankshaft from a CS prop to a fixed pitch prop. I should make a hole or remove the inner centre cap. I do not have a so long drill to make a hole on it.
Can someone advise me on the easiest and best way to make it? I try to push it forward from the front but it did not move. I did not apply much force afraid to damage something.
Thanks,
Filipe
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10-03-2018, 06:18 AM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Inver Grove Hgts, MN
Posts: 329
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Filipe,
Don't drill it, the drilling debris is too hard to remove completely. Take a long, sharp-pointed punch and put a hole in it. You can then use a slide-hammer with a threaded end to pull it out. It should come out easily. Be careful to avoid damaging that oil-transfer tube that extends across the opening. Some people just punch a hole in the plug and leave it in but I prefer to remove it.
__________________
Mike Hilger
RV-6 N207AM w/G3X, 1,600 hours +
South St. Paul, MN (KSGS)
A&P, EAA Tech Counselor
We're all here because we're not all there...
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10-03-2018, 09:34 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Reno NV
Posts: 542
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Remove the rear inner cap from the crankshaft
I agree with the previous post. One word of caution, if you damage that oil tube, the crank must be removed and sent in for repair. I did all the prep work for removal of my inner cap and hired the local mx dude to remove it and set the outer cap. He had made some "special tools" to remove it with his rather small slide hammer. Dan
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10-03-2018, 10:20 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Portugal
Posts: 80
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Thank you!
I just punched a hole. Tried to remove the cap but was stuck so I decided to leave it like that. Do not want to damage anything.
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10-03-2018, 10:45 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,762
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You don't have to remove it. You just need a hole to relieve pressure.
__________________
Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century.
EAA Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor, Friend of the RV-1
Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>
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10-03-2018, 01:10 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Inver Grove Hgts, MN
Posts: 329
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That hole is fine. The oil transfer tube looks good so you are good to go.
__________________
Mike Hilger
RV-6 N207AM w/G3X, 1,600 hours +
South St. Paul, MN (KSGS)
A&P, EAA Tech Counselor
We're all here because we're not all there...
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10-03-2018, 01:29 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvsxer
That hole is fine. The oil transfer tube looks good so you are good to go.
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However it looks like the paint is too thick on the prop drive lugs.
They are usually not painted.
__________________
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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10-03-2018, 01:58 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Portugal
Posts: 80
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Thanks guys!!
Yes, it is epoxy primary but It is very easy sanded down. However, I decided to apply because it protect it before I use the engine.
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10-03-2018, 06:42 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,024
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Also no paint on the front of the crank flange!
Good Luck,
Mahlon
__________________
"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at your own risk."
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10-03-2018, 06:46 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Shreveport, LA
Posts: 1,002
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I would be interested to see a photo of the tool(s) you used to punch that hole.
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