RV10 oil filter change

[DJS]

standard torque wrench too wide to fit between oil filter head and firewall.
Suggestions? thanks

[flytoboat]

I have one of these:
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...?clickkey=9169

But I usually tighten 3/4 turn past first contact of gasket. It's worked on cars for me for 48 years without safety wire...

YMMV

[Mike S]

David, welcome to VAF

I just turned 3/4 rotation past gasket contact.

[ReidVaitor]

You can use a wrench over the end of the filter and use a luggage or fish scale on the wrench when you think your close (1/2 a twist after contact) use the scale and pull until you get the 17Lbs.
I will look into the 3/4 twist next time I replace my filter- if its close enough to 17Lbs that is excellent method moving forward- a whole easier too.

[Flying again!]

Originally Posted by ReidVaitor

You can use a wrench over the end of the filter and use a luggage or fish scale on the wrench when you think your close (1/2 a twist after contact) use the scale and pull until you get the 17Lbs.
I will look into the 3/4 twist next time I replace my filter- if its close enough to 17Lbs that is excellent method moving forward- a whole easier too.

If you use a scale, make sure either pull 12" up the wrench of the filter to get a direct reading of foot pounds r measure how far up you are pulling to convert the number of pounds needed to pull to get 17 ft lbs. For example, 17 lbs pull at 6 inches is 8.5 ft lbs, at 24" it is 34 ft lbs.

It may be obvious but wanted to make sure no one over or under torques the filter. Best bet is the 3/4 turn approach.

[Henderrj]

Originally Posted by Flying again!

If you use a scale, make sure either pull 12" up the wrench of the filter to get a direct reading of foot pounds r measure how far up you are pulling to convert the number of pounds needed to pull to get 17 ft lbs. For example, 17 lbs pull at 6 inches is 8.5 ft lbs, at 24" it is 34 ft lbs.

It may be obvious but wanted to make sure no one over or under torques the filter. Best bet is the 3/4 turn approach.

Hmm, wouldn't those numbers be reversed?

Thank you all, by the way, for the many great posts.

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by Henderrj

Hmm, wouldn't those numbers be reversed?

Thank you all, by the way, for the many great posts.

No, the mathematics is correct...

[Henderrj]

Originally Posted by az_gila

No, the mathematics is correct...

Ah! I'm sorry, I read it as "you need to pull" more at the greater distance, rather than the same pull produces more torque with more leverage. Hmm, I seem to do that with build manuals too! Lots of extra reading!

[Kellym]

Originally Posted by ReidVaitor

You can use a wrench over the end of the filter and use a luggage or fish scale on the wrench when you think your close (1/2 a twist after contact) use the scale and pull until you get the 17Lbs.
I will look into the 3/4 twist next time I replace my filter- if its close enough to 17Lbs that is excellent method moving forward- a whole easier too.

Torque is a very INEXACT measurement of how much compression is achieved on a gasket. The amount of lubricant and type of lubricant on the seal will greatly affect the torque.
The precise measurement method is an exact amount of turn from contact with the gasket. I have been using the 3/4 turn for oh, 45 years or so without problem. Because the threads are a precise pitch, the amount of turn gets you the same amount of compression every time.
JMHO.

[DCorwith]

Try one of these as Aircraft Spruce. You'll need to do some upper level math but not to hard.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...es/1201675.php