OK, Y'all ('cause I'm a Texan),
Thanks for all the help. Here's what I did:
I ran power to a 7 amp panel-mounted breaker ('cause I don't do fuses), then to a guarded toggle (smoke system master switch) on the far right end of the panel.
From there, power goes to a simple "Smoke On" toggle mounted directly between the throttle and the prop lever, right at my fingertip with my hand on the throttle where it belongs.
FROM THE "Smoke On" TOGGLE down side, I split the DC output.
- The 16 gauge wire goes to the oil pump, then grounds locally.
- I also ran a 22 gauge wire to a blue placarded panel light labeled "SMOKE ON", grounded locally.
Reasoning: I don't want an accidental bump of the throttle smoke switch to actually pump oil unless I have also activated the system with the across-panel guarded smoke system master switch. I also NEEDED a light telling me if the entire system (smoke master and 'smoke-on' toggle, which activates the pump) is activated. Why? I can't see smoke, smell smoke, or hear the pump or any change in the exhaust note when smoke is running. A half-gallon a minute at >$10/gallon gets expensive fast (coolness factor non-withstanding).
I'll post photos whenever I can get smugmug to finally work in my favor.
Bottom line: I love my smoke system. Many thanks to SMOKEY 1, Marvin Holmsley, at SmokeSystemHelpers.com.
PS: I recommend the check valves.