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  #11  
Old 09-19-2018, 04:09 AM
precession precession is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 146
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I had to be away for a few days. Thanks for the replies/suggestions regarding suppliers, jrs14855 and titanhawk.

Dean Pichon, my builder also rigged up his oil tube so the completed length was 9.75 inches (before addition of the cap), just like yours. I measure 1" of clearance between the top of my cap and my oil filler door. I was therefore figuring I could tolerate a 10.57" stock tube. That would leave me with a 0.20" clearance. Not much clearance at all, but I thought it would be okay; it would be nice to have a stock, one-piece tube.

However, it's since occurred to me that I may need new motor mounts in a year or two. If so, that might raise the engine up such that the cap on the tube would cross that small clearance and hit the door(?). Therefore, I'm rethinking getting a stock 10.57" tube.

My research indicates there are only 3 Lycoming stock tube lengths available for these engines, which are:

Part Number - 75767 Length – 10.57”
Part Number - 75735 Length – 6.32”
Part Number - 75736 Length – 11.57”

I guess that explains why people have been forced to cut tubes and fit them with sleeves to fit an RV-4. I also found (although the engine shop guy I contacted said he'd never heard of it) that Lycoming apparently makes a couple of "oil tube extenders" (sleeves). So I guess affixing a sleeve is considered standard practice by Lycoming(?).

Oil tube "extenders":
Part Number - 75737 Length – 2.69”
Part Number - 75761 Length – 4.47”

So it looks like I'm going to be forced to put a sleeve (of PVC, aileron tube, or stock Lycoming extender) back on my tube.

I'm going to try another engine shop to try to find out what epoxy is recommended for attaching the sleeve. If someone here knows or has a suggestion, I'd like to know. I still don't like the idea of having epoxy inside the oil tube that could possibly break down over time, lose adhesion to the tube, and drop into the sump. But apparently that's not considered a concern(?). I don't know why.
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Last edited by precession : 09-19-2018 at 04:22 AM.
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  #12  
Old 09-19-2018, 10:15 AM
az_gila's Avatar
az_gila az_gila is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
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One option may be to buy a Superior oil tube that comes in metal and cut it to the length you want - then have some sort of aluminum fitting machined to join the two parts.

http://www.aircraft-specialties.com/...level-sl75767/
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  #13  
Old 09-19-2018, 11:05 AM
659JR 659JR is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: delta, co
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Default TUBES

You could put two of the 75761 tubes together and it would be right at 9 inches. You would have to mark your dipstick as there is not a stock one that take two of those tubes. The threads wear out on the dipsticks before the tube and in most cases that is the reason for the wear on the stick. I have several of the tubes and should have a dipstick that could be remarked as well.

Jesse
970-874-7575
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  #14  
Old 09-19-2018, 09:55 PM
gasman gasman is offline
 
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Location: Sonoma County
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Quote:
Originally Posted by precession View Post
Thanks, good point.

I contacted Preferred Airparts, who referred me to engine shop G&N in Indiana. They are looking for a used oil fill tube for me now.

For anyone with a -4, the part number for a 10.57" tube is 75767, and they tell me the threads at the base fit both the 0320 and 0360 series engines. I think the 10.57" tube will just barely fit under my -4 cowl. I also found reference to this part number in another VAF thread on the same topic: http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=94036.

As for the dipstick, although I could recalibrate my existing one, I asked them to try to locate me one that is already mated with the 75767 10.57" tube. Reason: my existing dipstick is no longer firmly attached to the cap at the top; therefore, when the engine is running the dipstick is vibrating and rattling around and maybe hitting the engine case, causing slight wear on the stick. Possibly this could lead to small pieces of metal going into the sump(?).

My hangar-mate replaced his dipstick for the same problem. He noticed it was loose from the cap and there was a worn area on the shaft where it apparently vibrated against the engine case. I'm imagining this must be pretty common. Not sure how many people regard it as a problem though(?). Those dipsticks are expensive - apparently over $100 for a new one I understand. Hoping they'll locate a used one for me.
Dipstick is a taper press fit to the cap.....

Tap back into place, drill and pin it to the cap.

A new unmarked dipstick rod can be purchased at any ACE hardware store.
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  #15  
Old 09-20-2018, 11:29 AM
Dean Pichon Dean Pichon is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by precession View Post
I had to be away for a few days. Thanks for the replies/suggestions regarding suppliers, jrs14855 and titanhawk.

Dean Pichon, my builder also rigged up his oil tube so the completed length was 9.75 inches (before addition of the cap), just like yours. I measure 1" of clearance between the top of my cap and my oil filler door. I was therefore figuring I could tolerate a 10.57" stock tube. That would leave me with a 0.20" clearance. Not much clearance at all, but I thought it would be okay; it would be nice to have a stock, one-piece .
It?s important to maintain some clearance between the dipstick and the oil door. I have about 1/4? and still see signs of occasional contact- probably during start up.

Good luck,
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  #16  
Old 09-21-2018, 04:39 AM
precession precession is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
One option may be to buy a Superior oil tube that comes in metal and cut it to the length you want - then have some sort of aluminum fitting machined to join the two parts.

http://www.aircraft-specialties.com/...level-sl75767/
Thanks Gil, I kind of like the idea of the aluminum Superior tube (no plastic threads to possibly wear out, although mine never did), and the one you linked to is a little less than the plastic Lycoming one ($76 vs $84). I'd still have the length issue to deal with. I called Superior to check if they make different tube lengths (no, they only make the 10.57"), and the rep suggested I could also have the 10.57” aluminum one cut and welded to my existing 9.75” length. Not sure what a welder would charge for that, but that would mean my existing dipstick would be correctly calibrated.

Meanwhile, the Superior rep knew of the Lycoming plastic extenders (which Superior does not make). He said the tubes join to the extenders by way of threads not glue/epoxy (maybe I should have figured that out if I’d thought it through), so unlike a homemade sleeve extender, you won’t end up with dried epoxy inside your oil tube (waiting to possibly break down and fall into your sump?) – which I found interesting. By the way, the plastic extenders alone are $53 new on top of what you pay for the plastic oil tube. A piece of PVC is sounding better all the time.
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  #17  
Old 09-21-2018, 04:43 AM
precession precession is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 659JR View Post
You could put two of the 75761 tubes together and it would be right at 9 inches. You would have to mark your dipstick as there is not a stock one that take two of those tubes. The threads wear out on the dipsticks before the tube and in most cases that is the reason for the wear on the stick. I have several of the tubes and should have a dipstick that could be remarked as well.

Jesse
970-874-7575
Thanks Jesse, it sounds like you're saying two of the 75761 extender tubes could be threaded together to result in a 9" tube and you may have a couple. That length would be a little less than ideal but might still be acceptable. I'll give you a call.
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  #18  
Old 09-21-2018, 05:24 AM
WingsOnWheels WingsOnWheels is offline
 
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Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 2,089
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If you start with the longer tube and cut it down the ends would butt together at the joint. You could clean out any squeeze-out once the epoxy cured. At that point, the likelihood of contamination would be very low.

Another option could be a custom-made tube. For the most part it would be a pretty easy lathe project. Cutting the threads would be the only challenge (at least on my lathe, mine doesn't have a quick-change gearbox). If I had that same problem, that is what I would probably do, but I have the tools for it.

The weld-together solution is good as well. Probably $50 to get it welded if you have the parts all fabbed up and ready. Ask the Superior rep what alloy they use for the tube.
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Last edited by WingsOnWheels : 09-21-2018 at 05:26 AM.
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  #19  
Old 09-21-2018, 05:30 AM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
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I used CPVC cement to splice my filler tube. To avoid getting it inside the tube, you apply the cement on the outside of the tube at the cut, and push the joining sleeve over the tube. Do the same on the other side of the splice and there won't be any glue inside the tube. On mine, I also used 3 hex screws on each end of the coupling to provide a mechanical connection to the tube.

Ones like these, in an appropriate size:

https://www.build.com/delta-rp25620/...CABEgJLlPD_BwE
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  #20  
Old 09-21-2018, 05:14 PM
deek deek is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Flathead Lake Montana - 8S1
Posts: 334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle Boatright View Post
I used CPVC cement to splice my filler tube. To avoid getting it inside the tube, you apply the cement on the outside of the tube at the cut, and push the joining sleeve over the tube. Do the same on the other side of the splice and there won't be any glue inside the tube. On mine, I also used 3 hex screws on each end of the coupling to provide a mechanical connection to the tube.

Ones like these, in an appropriate size:

https://www.build.com/delta-rp25620/...CABEgJLlPD_BwE
There are about 2,000 EZ's flying around with shortened filler tubes using this method, plus an 3-4 ply epoxy/BID "Ace bandage wrap" on the outside. Mine was done 35 years and 3,500 hours ago; still fine.
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