SDS No More Leak Induction Tube Solution

[molson309]

I just got done installing this on the IO-540 parallel valve in my Rocket and have some observations:

The kit fit perfectly once I got everything lined up. Looks great and I expect it will give very long service with no leaks.

The o-ring assembly is a real bugger until I learned to first get both of the flange bolts tightened up to where the flange was about 3/16" lower than the mating surface. Then I assembled the o-ring and aluminum washer and carefully slid the assembly into the 3/16" gap, pushing it around with the tip of a screwdriver until it looked like it was correctly placed. I then ran the nuts up snug by hand (no ratchet/wrench) carefully watching to make sure the o-ring wasn't pooching out and getting pinched somewhere - this happened to me twice. Once convinced I didn't have a pinched o-ring I then tightened the nuts with a wrench.

The new flange seems to be slightly thicker than the one it replaced, causing difficulty in tightening the back bolt on at least one of the cylinders. In general those back bolts are difficult to get to. A 7/16" socket that's somewhere between the length of a standard socket (too short) and a deep socket (too long) would probably help, especially if it had very thin walls.

A majority of my original (7-yr old) intake gaskets were in bad shape. One was in pieces - parts fell out when I was in the process of removing the bolts and hadn't yet tried to move the flange.

It takes quite a bit of ingenuity to get some of the supplied clamps in place. In general the one securing the flex tube to the sump is relatively easy, but the one holding the flex tube to the intake pipe can be quite difficult to get pliers on. I used a medium sized Channel Lock and on a couple of cylinders it took quite a bit of head-scratching to figure out how to get the jaws wide enough to grap the clamp with to first open it, yet close together enough to get the clamp expanded onto the flex hose. As might be expected the placement of the exhaust and intake pipes also doesn't help with access. A few creative helper words in the right spots and a couple of strategic time outs finally got me over the hump.

I haven't run the engine yet but it sure looks better than the old set up.

[scsmith]

Originally Posted by Toobuilder

Steve- having done a 200hp, AV, horizontal sump as the prototype for this product, IMHO, you would have to be really sloppy in your welding to mess this up. Yes, you could drive the condition which you fear, but reasonable precautions should keep it straight.

What about the issue that the re-welded pipe is now shorter by roughly the bandsaw kerf width? Assuming you bandsaw cut it, then reassemble by putting the two pieces together, it is now shorter by, what, 0.050" or so.

Does that affect the sealing of the big doughnut seal where the pipe fits into the sump?

I'm guessing the sealing surface in the sump is long enough, (deep enough) that being a little bit shorter doesn't affect the seal? If it is just sealing in a cylindrical bore, that is probably true. If the seal relies on some compression from bottoming in the bore, then the shortened tube would not produce as much seal compression.

[Toobuilder]

Steve- the sump to tube seal is around the bore. The tube itself is free to translate in and out a bunch (probably +- a half inch). With amount the cylinders walk around in service this connection would never handle a rigid seal. The .050 change due to cut and welding is not significant.

[azflyer21]

A little guidance would be helpful. I just ordered my Lyc. IO390 from Van's. Should I consider using these as a preemptive measure?

[Toobuilder]

Originally Posted by azflyer21

A little guidance would be helpful. I just ordered my Lyc. IO390 from Van's. Should I consider using these as a preemptive measure?

These were created to solve a known problem that has plagued pilots and mechanics for decades. Bottom line: if your stock gaskets are not leaking yet, they will.

So yes, this is a good preventative measure.

[chrisbryanolsen]

Installed a set along with valve covers. Been chasing what I believed was an intake leak, was getting some slight stumbling at lower RPM's

Was doing some other work work under the cowl as well.
When I started it up the first time I thought the Manifold Pressure gauge was broken. Was reading way lower then I had every seen it before.
After flying it, the gauge was fine. I just had that much of an intake system leak. Running way smother now at idle once it warms up.

[rv6ejguy]

I picked up a another run from the anodizer this afternoon so will start contacting those on the list tomorrow as time permits.

Thanks for everyone's patience.

[rv6ejguy]

I've sent out many sets of these this week so far with some more to go out tomorrow.

The problem now is we're almost out of the clamps for the carbed engines which use a thicker wall hose. I already bought up all I could find from several sources and have been searching for more for the last 3 weeks to no avail. I have emails out to several manufacturers and distributors, hopefully something will come back soon.

Clamps for the injected engines are available but all I have is the green hose as I bought up all the black hose I could find weeks ago and now it's long gone. Hopefully I'll see my big order of black in about 2 weeks now. Been on order for 6 weeks.

I haven't forgot about anyone, it's just the list is very long and we only have time to ship 3 or 4 sets a day with our other work to do.

[Lycosaurus]

Installed Russ' o-ring intake kit last weekend. Took it out for a test flight, wow, my vibrations are gone. Manifold pressure at idle is around 10 inHg. Nice smooth running at low idle. Nice improvement to the plane. Thanks Russ.

Another satisfied customer.

[Vlad]

That's a pretty setup Alfio. Mike and Ross did it right. Their solution will be on my next engine