Such A Thing As Lube For the O-Ring Fuel Cap?

[Robert Anglin]

Originally Posted by Larry DeCamp

You probabably know this but I picked up a helpful tip here on the forum. With the lock lever flipped up, push it down . Then rotate/lift the cap out. I use EZ turn and this procedure makes it very easy to remove caps.

I agree with this and Turbo's answer. With the new brown "O" rings you don't need much lube at all. We clean them from time to time and just finger wave them with some fuel lube. Turbo is on the money here as the mount ring has a cone shape as it tapers up and out of the neck at the cap. So you just need it adjusted so that it will lightly hold in place. anything more and you are compressing the "O" ring into the flange face. That will make it stick and drag when you try to remove the cap. That taper will hold the "O" ring from pulling out of the neck. I know it is a learned thing as to how tight to adjust the nut for the cap "O" ring adjuster nut. But it is not a lot.
Just what we have noted over time. Yours, R.E.A. III # 80888

[flynwest]

I dip the fuel nozzle in the tank and put a few drops of gas on the o ring. Make sure when you flip up the tab push down on it. Over 1000 hours no issues.

[pa38112]

Originally Posted by Dan Langhout

I use purpose made Parker O-ring lube (sparingly). I'll look when I get to the hangar and edit this post with the specifics.

I would not use the Parker lube on the fuel caps - it is designed to swell the o-rings.
I use EZ Lube. Once you put a LITTLE on it will last for years.

[rv7charlie]

Anyone know of a similar product, usable in the old brass cone fuel valves, that can be purchased from local vendors or a free shipping source like Amazon Prime? I really don't need anything else from Spruce right now, & hate to pay as much for shipping as the product value.

(And no, I don't see any need to replace the valve...)

Charlie

[Canadian_JOY]

Originally Posted by AlexPeterson

EZ Turn is not workable when it is cold out...you may not be able to remove the cap without warming them up. That is the very worst thing to use on fuel caps (unless you live in Alabama, for example...). Take the caps apart and clean as much of that glop off from all the components as you can. It can only be removed by rubbing it off - nothing reasonable will dissolve it. I've used Tri-Flow every few months for 15 years or so, works well. When the caps are adjusted properly, they should require very little force to click the tab down, and should pull up out of the tank very easily also when opened.

A giant +1 on this one! I used Fuel Lube on mine, then found I had to use a heat gun to get the caps off in the winter. Totally useless in anything other than balmy temperatures.

Most home renovation / hardware stores carry pure silicone grease for plumbing O-rings (Home Depot is where I got mine - it comes in a little blue plastic tub with a flip-up lid and costs under $10). A little container of it, maybe half an ounce, has lasted me at least a decade. It takes only the lightest wipe of a finger dipped in the silicone grease to keep the fuel cap O-rings working perfectly for several months.

Note this silicone lube is also helpful in some of the older, more traditional fuel selector valves where O-rings are employed.

[664781]

Use LPS-4 on the stem o-ring. Work it in a couple times and repeat every couple months. Just a little dab will do ya.

[mbauer]

Sounds like it was the EZ stuff. Think I'll clean them up and use the tri-flo for now. Only way I can get them out is to make sure that I press down on the vertical bolt.

They bind when trying to rotate them and lift. Same issue when trying to get them back in. The EZ is like a glue that won't let go...

There is a O-ring specialty shop down the road, 1/4 mile, that deals with oilfield related items, thinking I might go talk to them to see what they have.

I know you can remove silicone caulking with regular gasoline, that is why silicone isn't recommended to use around hydrocarbons.

Best regards,
Mike Bauer

[Sam Buchanan]

The only lube I've used is an occasional swipe of avgas (or auto gas) on the big o-ring when filling the tanks. Having the caps adjusted properly is the other factor.

[gasman]

Originally Posted by rv7charlie

Anyone know of a similar product, usable in the old brass cone fuel valves, that can be purchased from local vendors or a free shipping source like Amazon Prime? I really don't need anything else from Spruce right now, & hate to pay as much for shipping as the product value.

(And no, I don't see any need to replace the valve...)

Charlie

It was called Lubirplate......comes in a small toothpaste type tube.

But, your valve does not need any lube. The spring is too strong. Cut one loop off of it. You can do this without removing the valve.

[rv7charlie]

Thanks, but Lubriplate seems to make hundreds of products. Can you narrow it down a bit?

The valves sold with the older kits do seem to need lubrication; at least the ones I've used had fuel lube in them. They are brass on brass; not like the current version.

Charlie