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07-30-2018, 02:14 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tampa (Wimauma actually)
Posts: 421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkilby
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...=oil+additives
Check this thread. I personally go with Phillips XC 20w50 and recently started adding Camguard. I live in GA and it does get cold in the winter so I just stick with the same stuff year round. If I lived in Tampa, I would probably go with Aeroshell 100W and some Camguard since it never gets cold there. Just my .02
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But why Mark. That's my question. Mike Busch says go with 100W but he says that primarily because he says the coating properties during periods of non-use are superior. The Phillips folks data says that isn't true.
__________________
Randy King
Tampa (Wimauma), Florida
RV-4 N212CS (sold)
RV-8 N184RK (flying)
Flying an A320 to pay the bills
Exempt and gladly donating anyway - Current through March 2021
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07-30-2018, 03:36 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 739
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Note: ECI cylinder install instructions say to use Philips 15W50 oil during break in. I use Philips 15W50 and some MMO for every oil change in a hopped up IO-360. Now my D17S... That's a whole can of worms.... I'm still trying to find out why AeroShell 120W is soooo expensive..
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07-30-2018, 04:34 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tampa (Wimauma actually)
Posts: 421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FasGlas
Note: ECI cylinder install instructions say to use Philips 15W50 oil during break in. I use Philips 15W50 and some MMO for every oil change in a hopped up IO-360. Now my D17S... That's a whole can of worms.... I'm still trying to find out why AeroShell 120W is soooo expensive..
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Every oil expert, Phillips, AeroShell, and independent that I talked to said Marvel Mystery Oil is just that, a complete mystery and totally ineffective. According to most of them the only thing mysterious about MMO is the fact that intelligent people would spend any money for the product.
__________________
Randy King
Tampa (Wimauma), Florida
RV-4 N212CS (sold)
RV-8 N184RK (flying)
Flying an A320 to pay the bills
Exempt and gladly donating anyway - Current through March 2021
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07-30-2018, 08:20 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
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It all depends on who you ask.
I asked Mahlon years ago and he said to urn Philips 20W-50 from break in through the end of life and that is what I have done on both engines with no issues.
Then at some point I spoke to Allen Barrett and he said the cleanest engines he has disabled were those that run CamGuard, so I have started running that as well.
__________________
Bill R.
RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
O-360 w/ dual P-mags
Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
SC86 - Easley, SC
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
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07-31-2018, 07:19 AM
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Ga
Posts: 662
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In Flordia, multi weight Rotella....
In Florida, I'd probably go with Rotella non-synthetic 15w40 and maybe add camguard to make ya feel better. Of course you may want to top it off with AVBlend for icing on the cake.
__________________
Craig
RV-3 Sold
RV-4 Sold
RV-6a Sold
RV-9 IO-360 CS, Built and Flying
Aerostar 600A, Family Hotrod
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07-31-2018, 09:22 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Yorkshire, England
Posts: 2,052
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Heck, this is 2018.....
When our ditch pump engines were developed in the 30's, the only oil available was distilled tar with clay and stuff in
Nowadays, things are different and for decades, the major oil companies have been supplying multigrade oils which offer both low viscosity for starting and high viscosity characteristics for protection between runs and at higher temperatures.
I would no sooner run single weight oil in my Lycoming than run mogas, but that is a complete thread drift, so we won't go there
Stick with multigrade and if Camguard gives you peace of mind, add it. Easier, cheaper and way more fun is to just GO FLY !!!
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"I add a little excitement, a little spice to your lives, and all you do is complain!" - Q
Donated in 2020
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07-31-2018, 09:54 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
Posts: 9,500
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FWIW......
Back on 12-18-12 I cut three sections of ordinary mild steel strap from the same piece, bead blasted them nice and clean, and drilled a hole in each.
The first was dipped in Aeroshell 15-50. The second was dipped in straight Phillips 20-50. The third was dipped in Phillips 20-50 mixed with the recommended quantity of CamGuard.
They spent the first few weeks hanging outside the shop (above) so the oil would have plenty of time to run off, just like inside a parked engine. Then I laid them flat on top of a handy landscape timber and left them a few more weeks.
Here they are on 1-29-13, a little over 6 weeks later:
Frankly, I don't see a heck of a lot of difference, between samples, or between the upper (uncoated) and lower (oiled) half of each sample. They seemed to develop rust pits at the same rate throughout the exposed period.
Somebody do the same test incorporating a straight weight oil, and maybe we'll learn something useful.
__________________
Dan Horton
RV-8 SS
Barrett IO-390
Last edited by DanH : 07-31-2018 at 09:56 AM.
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07-31-2018, 10:45 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 5,297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH
FWIW......
Back on 12-18-12 I cut three sections of ordinary mild steel strap from the same piece, bead blasted them nice and clean, and drilled a hole in each.
The first was dipped in Aeroshell 15-50. The second was dipped in straight Phillips 20-50. The third was dipped in Phillips 20-50 mixed with the recommended quantity of CamGuard.
They spent the first few weeks hanging outside the shop (above) so the oil would have plenty of time to run off, just like inside a parked engine. Then I laid them flat on top of a handy landscape timber and left them a few more weeks. They are offering an improvement over stock oils, but not a long term panacea.
Here they are on 1-29-13, a little over 6 weeks later:
Frankly, I don't see a heck of a lot of difference, between samples, or between the upper (uncoated) and lower (oiled) half of each sample. They seemed to develop rust pits at the same rate throughout the exposed period.
Somebody do the same test incorporating a straight weight oil, and maybe we'll learn something useful.
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An interesting test and strong evidence that nothing oil based is going to stop rust over the long haul when exposed to the elements. However, even camgaurd doesn't suggest protection in excess of thirty days. They claim that most stock oils protect for only a few days, while they can go a month. Here is data from their test
Not necessarily trying to advocate for camgaurd, but wanted to put this data in perspective with your test.
Relevant to the initial thread intent, multi-vis and straight oils performed identically without the camgaurd.
__________________
N64LR - RV-6A / IO-320, Flying as of 8/2015
N11LR - RV-10, Flying as of 12/2019
Last edited by lr172 : 07-31-2018 at 10:52 AM.
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07-31-2018, 10:53 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: santa barbara, CA
Posts: 1,682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH
Somebody do the same test incorporating a straight weight oil, and maybe we'll learn something useful.
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And maybe a preservative oil as well for comparison!
erich
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07-31-2018, 12:44 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f14av8r
Every oil expert, Phillips, AeroShell, and independent that I talked to said Marvel Mystery Oil is just that, a complete mystery and totally ineffective. According to most of them the only thing mysterious about MMO is the fact that intelligent people would spend any money for the product.
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Haha.. Experts = BS.. They are all biased. They either work from a company or they believe they are important. As far as MMO? I've seen it work. Years ago I had a Turbo Arrow with a low cylinder, added 1/2 qt MMO and the compression came up within a few hours F/T. I've seen MMO loosen a frozen Briggs & Stratton. Story after story from friends and pilots about MMO working magic. The mystery is why people like you only believe "Experts" that have a stake only in their product. I'm sure you have no idea the history of MMO. Might want to look that up.
Not only do ALL the oil companies and the additive companies have their own "Test Labs" but they ALL test so their products produce the results they want. Change the temps, change the pressures, change the weight, change anything they want to say what they want. The only requirements of oil is that it must pass SAE standards, nothing more. Anyone remember when the audio companies stopped using Output Watts RMS to state the power output of an amplifier? The wild output claims that every audio company made after that was a joke. Don't be so gullible.
Last edited by FasGlas : 07-31-2018 at 01:01 PM.
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