Any door bonding hints?

[az_gila]

Well, with the doors initially trimmed and the cabin cover top clecoed in, it's getting time to bond the two door skins together and make those gull wings.

The plan is to use West epoxy and cab-o-sil from System 3 as stated in the plans.

Since lots of you have already done this are there any gotchas, cautions or tips you can give?

[Tassie]

My door notes from a few months back, FWIW:

http://tasrv10.com/?p=1920

Regards,

[Kyle Boatright]

Use enough epoxy to get squeeze out all around the perimeter and windows(and wipe off the squeeze out). I didn't and had to drill a couple of holes in the doors and inject more epoxy/flox.

[Electrogunner]

Have someone to help mixing up the epoxy while you spread it on the bonding surfaces. Also I used the slow hardener, to have extra time for positioning.

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by Electrogunner

Have someone to help mixing up the epoxy while you spread it on the bonding surfaces. Also I used the slow hardener, to have extra time for positioning.

It will probably be around 80F in the hangar so that is one of my concerns...

I'm lining up help and assume two of us should be enough for the job.

[Mike S]

Be the door latching mechanism is working correctly------are you doing the Plane Around center latch? Much easier to get all installed before skinning the door.

Also, double check the hinges-------they are not all the same, different pin axis to accommodate the curve of the cabin roof.

I would also suggest a hard point for a pull down strap be installed, piece of plywood ---1/4" 5 ply from a hobby shop would be good----with a couple T nuts, bond it in place with some of the same goo you bond the door skins with. Ditto if you decide you want arm rests.

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by Mike S

Be the door latching mechanism is working correctly------are you doing the Plane Around center latch? Much easier to get all installed before skinning the door.

Also, double check the hinges-------they are not all the same, different pin axis to accommodate the curve of the cabin roof.

I would also suggest a hard point for a pull down strap be installed, piece of plywood ---1/4" 5 ply from a hobby shop would be good----with a couple T nuts, bond it in place with some of the same goo you bond the door skins with. Ditto if you decide you want arm rests.

Thanks Mike,

Yes on the Plane Around latch - Tassie also recommended inclusion before bonding.

The door strap backing idea also sounds good - is there a good location? I was thinking about 1/3 way back from the front edge but will go and check out the 2 RV-10s on the airpark.

[Electrogunner]

Originally Posted by az_gila

It will probably be around 80F in the hangar so that is one of my concerns...

I'm lining up help and assume two of us should be enough for the job.

My wife and I did ours, with Temps around 70 or so. Plenty of working time, no need to rush. Just have everything you may need at hand including any clamping jigs. I clecoed mine in place to set up, and filled holes with flox later.

[Mike S]

Originally Posted by az_gila

Thanks Mike,

Yes on the Plane Around latch - Tassie also recommended inclusion before bonding.

The door strap backing idea also sounds good - is there a good location? I was thinking about 1/3 way back from the front edge but will go and check out the 2 RV-10s on the airpark.

With the Plane Around latch it should not matter as much-------but I would suggest closer to the rear of the door, will help the rear pin to go in, and the strap will be behind the seat and our of your way when the door is closed.

When you go look at the other 10's, try closing the door from the outside, just push in the front bottom corner and then the rear. Note how much the door stays away from the frame at the rear latch pin position with each pushing position.

Remember the door is held up by a single gas strut, mounted at the rear.

[bryanflood]

I know it's been said, but use more epoxy / caobosil mix than you think you need. I ended up with unbonded seams after trimming due to the door surfaces being not totaly flat. Had to go back and inject more epoxy a ime consuming process.

Bryan