SDS No More Leak Induction Tube Solution - Page 4

rv6ejguy · #31 06-11-2018, 07:16 AM

No problem to source the 2 inch hose and I'll check the clamp size availability today. Thanks for the feedback.

Toobuilder · #32 06-11-2018, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snopercod

This is a great idea, but I'm not visualizing how it would all fit together on my carbureted O-290-D2. My intake tubes have flanges on the ends. So the new billet pieces (not sure what you call them) would slide onto the tubes and the flange on the end of the intake tube would seat metal-to-metal into the billet piece? Is that right? Then the O-ring would be inserted on top of the intake tube flange, and that shiny metal ring (not sure what you call that, either) would also fit on the intake flange inside the O-ring? Is the purpose of the metal ring to keep the O-ring spread? Also, I don't understand why would I need new hoses and hose clamps?

Maybe this helps:

The crush is determined by the depth of the counterbore in the new clamp (red, in this case). Unlike the standard Lycoming part which has the tube flange sitting proud of the surface of the clamp so that the paper gasket can form a seal, the O ring itself sits slightly proud. Most of it seats inside the clamp and all you have to do is tighten down the clamp tight to the head and you have your perfect preload. You can tighten the bolts all you want and never get a bow in the clamp or further crush the O ring. The inner retainer (the silver ring, not shown above) simply keeps the O ring circular (and from sucking into the tube).

rv6ejguy · #33 06-11-2018, 04:29 PM

Thanks for the photos Mike.

I'll be picking up the 2 inch hose tomorrow. The CT clamps present a bit more of an issue. The hose OD puts the available clamps either near the minimum or maximum of their size ranges. Not so keen on either extreme without some testing. I can only source these clamps in minimum orders of 100 pieces each.

How to Superior owners feel about re-using their current clamps?

Mark33 · #34 06-11-2018, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rv6ejguy

Thanks for the photos Mike.

I'll be picking up the 2 inch hose tomorrow. The CT clamps present a bit more of an issue. The hose OD puts the available clamps either near the minimum or maximum of their size ranges. Not so keen on either extreme without some testing. I can only source these clamps in minimum orders of 100 pieces each.

How to Superior owners feel about re-using their current clamps?

I don?t mind reusing my hose clamps if I have to. Also, I may have missed it somewhere and I guess I?m still a little confused on the installation, but am I going to have to do any cutting and welding on my intake pipes? Remember, I?m running the Superior cold air induction.

rv6ejguy · #35 06-11-2018, 05:33 PM

As there are many iterations of tubes, if your tubes are larger than 1.80 OD , you'll have to cut and re-weld after sliding the new flange on.

Mark33 · #36 06-11-2018, 06:09 PM

Thanks Ross!

rv6ejguy · #37 06-13-2018, 08:55 AM

I have flanges in hand, picking up a bunch of rings this morning so we can start shipping this batch out this afternoon. I've contacted most of the people who PM'd me with interest.

Also have 2 inch silicone hose in hand now so can now fix up anyone with Superior Cold Air tubes.

This batch is near sold out now. I'll be scheduling in another run of flanges and rings near the end of the month.

Thanks to all who've placed orders

bullojm1 · #38 06-13-2018, 08:34 PM

My kit arrived today from Ross, a mere 6 days after I ordered it. I raced off to the hangar to get it installed. Very impressive kit, and I have high expectations of a lifetime of worry free intake leaks.

The kit arrived very complete and packed impeccably.

It took a little figuring out how everything went together - it's a brilliant design!

A bad picture of one intake completed. The most difficult part of the night was figuring out how best to compress the constant-tension clamps.

I only had time to install 2 tonight - with unpacking, decowling and figuring it all out it took about an hour. I expect only another 30 minutes to do the other side now that I've "cracked the code".

rv6ejguy · #39 06-14-2018, 04:57 AM

Thanks for posting these photos Mike.

Lacking the dedicated tool for the clamps, I found a pair of channel locks worked well for compressing the clamps. You should have to do this job only once.

Toobuilder · #40 06-14-2018, 07:39 AM

Good photos Mike. Curious about your installation process for the O ring assembly. Did you seat everything as shown in your second picture (above), and then place and install the bolts? If so, maybe you could try leave the O ring out and install the bolts only a few turns in (tube hanging - see first picture in post #32) then slip the O ring/retainer assembly into place. Once placed, draw the clamp up to the head with the bolts (being careful to keep the O ring centered).

The later method is how I installed mine; it would be good to hear your firsthand comments on the relative ease of either method.