SDS No More Leak Induction Tube Solution

[rv6ejguy]

Originally Posted by BillL

The latest parallel valve engines (M1B) is made like your angle valve description and would need the tube cut/welded. Then, it has a formed flange for a fat o-ring fitting into the intake manifold/oil pan.

Kudos!! So let me understand, the intake tube flange will sit hard on the new flange on the bottom, then the o-ring seals between the top of that flange and the head, with the addition loose ring providing a hard clamping on the top side between the flange and head? This will result in the top end hard clamped with the ring insert, sealed with the o-ring, and floating (head motion) on the intake end of the tube?

In rewelding the tubes, do they need to be tacked in situ to ensure they are aligned and flat against the head?

There are various iterations of induction tube layouts. If you have a type that the OEM flange won't slide off freely, you'll have to cut the tube, install flange and re-weld the tube. Most older parallel valve engines, just slide the flange over the tube. Mike can probably tell you the best place to cut the AV type tube.

The O-ring sits against the tube flange, the tube flange contacts the CNC'd flange metal to metal, just as the stock parts do. The silver ring inside the O-ring contains the O-ring in its cavity when it's compressed to provide the proper degree of squish.

You can rotate the tube with some force when the bolts are tightened down.

[rv6ejguy]

We offer the new hoses and constant tension clamps for those who want new stuff there. The CT clamps never need tightening. Mike has tested those as well and they are a better solution than the old style stuff. The idea is to eliminate all maintenance in this area.

We'll sell just the flanges, O-rings and support rings to those who don't want or need the hoses and clamps. Be a bit less money.

Bad news at this time, this whole first batch is spoken for from people who have sent PMs and messages here. I'll put another batch on the machining list on Monday and try to fast track them through that and the anodizing process.

We appreciate the support!

[Mark33]

Ross,

I just had parallel valve 360 build using ECI jugs/heads along with a Superior cold air induction. Mine is a little bit of a hybrid but I?m sure the intake tubes that I have were part of the Superior cold air induction kit. Barrett built my engine but it actually hadn?t been shipped to me yet...(I?ll be getting it in about two weeks), so I actually haven?t laid eyes on it yet so I?m not able to verify exactly what I have as we speak. So, with the question being raised regarding the different type of flanges, what kind do you suspect I have? Do you think your kit will work as-is on my application or do you think it?ll need to be modified? My intake tubes have already been powder coated so hopefully no cutting or welding will be required to be able to use your new setup. Thanks!

Mark

[Mike S]

Originally Posted by BillL

T So let me understand, the intake tube flange will sit hard on the new flange on the bottom, then the o-ring seals between the top of that flange and the head, with the addition loose ring providing a hard clamping on the top side between the flange and head? This will result in the top end hard clamped with the ring insert, sealed with the o-ring, and floating (head motion) on the intake end of the tube?

Originally Posted by rv6ejguy

The silver ring inside the O-ring contains the O-ring in its cavity when it's compressed to provide the proper degree of squish.

This is standard stuff for "O" rings, otherwise it could be possible to over compress the "O" ring, and squeeze it out of position thus loosing the seal.

[rv6ejguy]

Originally Posted by Mark33

Ross,

I just had parallel valve 360 build using ECI jugs/heads along with a Superior cold air induction. Mine is a little bit of a hybrid but I?m sure the intake tubes that I have were part of the Superior cold air induction kit. Barrett built my engine but it actually hadn?t been shipped to me yet...(I?ll be getting it in about two weeks), so I actually haven?t laid eyes on it yet so I?m not able to verify exactly what I have as we speak. So, with the question being raised regarding the different type of flanges, what kind do you suspect I have? Do you think your kit will work as-is on my application or do you think it?ll need to be modified? My intake tubes have already been powder coated so hopefully no cutting or welding will be required to be able to use your new setup. Thanks!

Mark

I haven't seen all the aftermarket tubes available. Our flanges have an ID of 1.800 so if your tube OD is less than that where the bead is, these will slip over with no cutting.

[BillL]

Originally Posted by rv6ejguy

There are various iterations of induction tube layouts. If you have a type that the OEM flange won't slide off freely, you'll have to cut the tube, install flange and re-weld the tube. Most older parallel valve engines, just slide the flange over the tube. Mike can probably tell you the best place to cut the AV type tube.

The O-ring sits against the tube flange, the tube flange contacts the CNC'd flange metal to metal, just as the stock parts do. The silver ring inside the O-ring contains the O-ring in its cavity when it's compressed to provide the proper degree of squish.

You can rotate the tube with some force when the bolts are tightened down.

That is excellent design work!!! That allows for a tiny bit if head motion and still retain o-ring sealing. A few more hours on my bird and it is on the list for upgrade when the parts are off.

Keep up the good work, Team-Ross, kudos to Mike for initiative in action.

[Canadian_JOY]

Ross - I must be missing something... In a previous post you suggested those of us with carbs wouldn't be able to use your fancy rubber tube connectors. I looked at our Lycoming O-360 tonight and can't see how I would need a rubber tube connector that's any different from what you've shown in your "kit contents" photo.

When you've got a moment to spare, would you mind educating me, please? I really like the idea of this product.

Oh yeah, I should mention that tonight I found two of the four cork gaskets on my rocker covers to be leaking. Geez it would be nice to have your fancy CNC machined parts there. Instead I installed my trusty silicone rubber gaskets in hopes they'll tide me over until I can afford machined rocker covers.

[rv6ejguy]

Gasoline is not so friendly with silicone so we supply standard Nitrile hoses and Viton O-rings when these are used on carbed engines.

If your hoses are in good shape and you like your old style clamps, you can re-use that hardware.

For some folks, their hoses may be long in the tooth and it would be appropriate to replace all the old parts with new stuff, hence the full kit if you desire.

It doesn't seem right to offer only a half solution for everyone.

We'll delete the parts you don't want and discount the kit price if desired though.

[Canadian_JOY]

Thanks for the quick response, Ross. Now I understand the reference made to those of us with carb'd engines. One doesn't want one's intake hoses to turn to mush, thanks to them being exposed to an air/fuel mixture rather than just the pure induction air associated with a fuel injected engine.

I'm curious... The nitrile hoses you supply. are they any more flexible than the standard Lycoming parts? The Lycoming part seems to be both thicker and stiffer than what is needed for this task.

[kentlik]

Originally Posted by Mike S

Oh my, and I am now stuck in the certified world

Why? Say it ain't so!