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  #11  
Old 04-24-2018, 06:05 PM
Carl Froehlich's Avatar
Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
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Go find an an old bulk magnetic tape eraser. This works well. I used it to degaus the roll bar on and RV-8.

Carl
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  #12  
Old 04-24-2018, 06:17 PM
TShort TShort is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv7charlie View Post
Whatever you use, be sure to power it up prior to getting it close to the material. Move it slowly closer, continuing varying movements (circular works), and continue those movements until well away from the material. Only then power it down. Power-up and power-down causes large current/magnetic field excursions, which can re-magnetize your material.

Charlie
Interesting.

I thought the rudder cable needed to go down the middle, between the two legs of the soldering gun. Does it just need to be near?

Perhaps something like this might work?


https://frys.com/search?search_type=...toreName=false


Also - I will definitely pull the magnetometer out before I do this. Do I need to pull other stuff - GSA28 servos, transponder, etc - that is mounted aft?

Thanks
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KUMP - Indianapolis, IN / KAEJ - Buena Vista, CO
RV-10 N410TS bought / flying
RV-8 wings / fuse in progress ... still
1948 Cessna 170 N3949V
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  #13  
Old 04-24-2018, 06:27 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Default Solder gun

That's where the field is. You can also make a bigger loop with #12 Rolex. Strip a piece and insert the ends in the solder gun screw clamps.
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Larry Larson
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Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
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  #14  
Old 04-24-2018, 06:50 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Location: Central IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Froehlich View Post
Go find an an old bulk magnetic tape eraser. This works well. I used it to degaus the roll bar on and RV-8.

Carl
This is what I used, an old Realistic tape eraser, used by my 10-friend too. Did shoulder harness cables, rudder cables and elevator horns. Some were more difficult than others. There are instructions for it . . . some where on the internet too.

$15
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and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
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  #15  
Old 04-24-2018, 07:22 PM
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RV7A Flyer RV7A Flyer is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock View Post
That's where the field is. You can also make a bigger loop with #12 Rolex. Strip a piece and insert the ends in the solder gun screw clamps.
That's a pretty good deal on a watch JK!
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  #16  
Old 04-24-2018, 08:28 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
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The Thorsen coil linked earlier is simply multiple turns of heavy gauge 'magnet' wire (enamel insulation), wrapped with tape, with an in-line on-off switch. The original use was degaussing picture tubes (CRT). Normal use is to hold the coil flat, parallel to the face of the CRT, moving it in a spiraling circular motion. (Plenty of utube videos on how to use one.)The field is strongest closest to the coil; its strength drops rapidly as you move away, just like a regular magnet.

The bulk tape eraser would be my 1st choice, if available, but the methods I described are still important, to avoid re-magnetizing the material.

Charlie
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  #17  
Old 04-24-2018, 09:08 PM
TShort TShort is offline
 
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Like these? Pretty cheap.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/bulk-tape-eraser
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KUMP - Indianapolis, IN / KAEJ - Buena Vista, CO
RV-10 N410TS bought / flying
RV-8 wings / fuse in progress ... still
1948 Cessna 170 N3949V
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  #18  
Old 04-25-2018, 06:20 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Location: Central IL
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Default Realistic - that is the one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TShort View Post
Yep 44-232 like my link above. I inherited one and sat on my self for a while until my 10 friend said he had an inflight magnetometer error.

Use a pocket magnetic compass to wave over the part and see it is magnetized, then put it on a wood or plastic table and wave the tool in a circular motion over the top 5-8", working down to the end of a cable. Continue the circular motion while with drawing the tool to about 3 feet then turn it off. Recheck the part with the compass.

I took my rudder cables and pulled out about 3 feet to do them in free air. The stretching and swaging process imparts some magnetism.

Get some instructions for the tool as it has a limited duty cycle.
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RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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  #19  
Old 04-25-2018, 06:24 AM
TShort TShort is offline
 
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Location: Indianapolis, IN (KUMP)
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Thanks.
I'm gonna try the soldering gun first, as I have one of those.
Hopefully I will be able to do it in place.

I also found (based on a suggestion from the aeroelectric list) a phone app that accesses the magnetometer in the iphone. Messing around here at the house with magnets, etc it seems to be pretty sensitive.
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KUMP - Indianapolis, IN / KAEJ - Buena Vista, CO
RV-10 N410TS bought / flying
RV-8 wings / fuse in progress ... still
1948 Cessna 170 N3949V
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