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04-24-2018, 06:05 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
Posts: 2,596
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Go find an an old bulk magnetic tape eraser. This works well. I used it to degaus the roll bar on and RV-8.
Carl
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04-24-2018, 06:17 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Indianapolis, IN (KUMP)
Posts: 1,024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv7charlie
Whatever you use, be sure to power it up prior to getting it close to the material. Move it slowly closer, continuing varying movements (circular works), and continue those movements until well away from the material. Only then power it down. Power-up and power-down causes large current/magnetic field excursions, which can re-magnetize your material.
Charlie
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Interesting.
I thought the rudder cable needed to go down the middle, between the two legs of the soldering gun. Does it just need to be near?
Perhaps something like this might work?
https://frys.com/search?search_type=...toreName=false
Also - I will definitely pull the magnetometer out before I do this. Do I need to pull other stuff - GSA28 servos, transponder, etc - that is mounted aft?
Thanks
__________________
Thomas Short
KUMP - Indianapolis, IN / KAEJ - Buena Vista, CO
RV-10 N410TS bought / flying
RV-8 wings / fuse in progress ... still
1948 Cessna 170 N3949V
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04-24-2018, 06:27 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,947
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Solder gun
That's where the field is. You can also make a bigger loop with #12 Rolex. Strip a piece and insert the ends in the solder gun screw clamps.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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04-24-2018, 06:50 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,516
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Froehlich
Go find an an old bulk magnetic tape eraser. This works well. I used it to degaus the roll bar on and RV-8.
Carl
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This is what I used, an old Realistic tape eraser, used by my 10-friend too. Did shoulder harness cables, rudder cables and elevator horns. Some were more difficult than others. There are instructions for it . . . some where on the internet too.
$15
__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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04-24-2018, 07:22 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: US
Posts: 2,251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock
That's where the field is. You can also make a bigger loop with #12 Rolex. Strip a piece and insert the ends in the solder gun screw clamps.
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That's a pretty good deal on a watch  JK!
__________________
2019 Dues paid!
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04-24-2018, 08:28 PM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,884
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The Thorsen coil linked earlier is simply multiple turns of heavy gauge 'magnet' wire (enamel insulation), wrapped with tape, with an in-line on-off switch. The original use was degaussing picture tubes (CRT). Normal use is to hold the coil flat, parallel to the face of the CRT, moving it in a spiraling circular motion. (Plenty of utube videos on how to use one.)The field is strongest closest to the coil; its strength drops rapidly as you move away, just like a regular magnet.
The bulk tape eraser would be my 1st choice, if available, but the methods I described are still important, to avoid re-magnetizing the material.
Charlie
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04-24-2018, 09:08 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Indianapolis, IN (KUMP)
Posts: 1,024
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__________________
Thomas Short
KUMP - Indianapolis, IN / KAEJ - Buena Vista, CO
RV-10 N410TS bought / flying
RV-8 wings / fuse in progress ... still
1948 Cessna 170 N3949V
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04-25-2018, 06:20 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,516
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Realistic - that is the one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TShort
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Yep 44-232 like my link above. I inherited one and sat on my self for a while until my 10 friend said he had an inflight magnetometer error.
Use a pocket magnetic compass to wave over the part and see it is magnetized, then put it on a wood or plastic table and wave the tool in a circular motion over the top 5-8", working down to the end of a cable. Continue the circular motion while with drawing the tool to about 3 feet then turn it off. Recheck the part with the compass.
I took my rudder cables and pulled out about 3 feet to do them in free air. The stretching and swaging process imparts some magnetism.
Get some instructions for the tool as it has a limited duty cycle.
__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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04-25-2018, 06:24 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Indianapolis, IN (KUMP)
Posts: 1,024
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Thanks.
I'm gonna try the soldering gun first, as I have one of those.
Hopefully I will be able to do it in place.
I also found (based on a suggestion from the aeroelectric list) a phone app that accesses the magnetometer in the iphone. Messing around here at the house with magnets, etc it seems to be pretty sensitive.
__________________
Thomas Short
KUMP - Indianapolis, IN / KAEJ - Buena Vista, CO
RV-10 N410TS bought / flying
RV-8 wings / fuse in progress ... still
1948 Cessna 170 N3949V
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