A very disturbing discovery in my RV

[Dave12]

Good find Dan.

[rzbill]

Originally Posted by RV8JD

There was a whole thread discussing those last 2 pictures and problem, but I cannot find it now. It discussed setting the proper control travel and ensuring that there is at least 1 inch of clearance between the elevator training edge tip and the rudder at full travel.

While setting the travels and clearances are important, even with them set correctly (which mine are), a stiff gust WILL deflect the rudder far enough to cause damage. Happened to me when my rudder lock failed years ago. Current rudder lock is much more robust because of that event.

[s10sakota]

Originally Posted by DanH

Well, this builder was using aluminum swage sleeves, so there are at least 12 of them in the elevator and rudder cables of his Zenith, all totally unairworthy...and all covered with heat shrink tubing. The correct sleeve is copper, plain or zinc plated for galvanized cable, or tin plated for stainless cable.

I'm building a Zenith and I'll have to double check but I don't think the ones included with the kit are aluminum. Is the builder you are referring to using the stock parts or aftermarket parts?

[131RB]

Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002

Here is a follow up question after thinking about this for a bit......

I am wondering if it is not possible that the nut was removed from this bolt by someone in the paint shop?

The reason I ask is that anyone familiar with the RV-9 knows that it is a huge pain to disconnect the push/pull rod from the aileron with the aileron mounted to the wing. When I have to remove an RV-9 aileron I disconnect the push/pull rod at the bellcrank and pull the rod out while removing the aileron.

Perhaps someone in the paint shop did the same?

I was wondering the same thing as Scott. This is one of the areas I always look over very carefully. Seems like the bolt surely would have fallen out if it was like this for any period of time. And most likely would have been spotted during an inspection or pre buy.
This is why I prefer to be alone while inspecting so as not to be distracted. Ie I start looking at an area while being bothered to help someone find a tool or hardware or the phone rings or anything that might take your attention away at a critical time from what you should be focused on.
Ryan

[DanH]

Originally Posted by s10sakota

I'm building a Zenith and I'll have to double check but I don't think the ones included with the kit are aluminum. Is the builder you are referring to using the stock parts or aftermarket parts?

I hope aluminum swage sleeves are not stock, but I also recognize an EAB kit vendor may supply whatever it sees fit, regardless of accepted practice.

[EXflyer]

It seems the unknown here is who either missed it or took it off. And if you are unable to verify which I would go over it myself and also have a very qualified person do another inspection before it flies again. Cheep insurance I would say even if it cost half of what you paid for the first one. You only get one go around not second times in life.

[rph142]

Evidently it just wasn?t your day. I?ve flown a 30% rc Yak after the right aileron control horn popped off in flight. The controls were mushy but it was still quite responsive. There?s a J-3 cub air show pilot that intentionally jettisons one aileron in flight. You can find him on YouTube.

[Saville]

Can you tell whether or not it's aluminum by looking? If so, how so?

thanks!

[mbauer]

Originally Posted by Saville

Can you tell whether or not it's aluminum by looking? If so, how so?

thanks!

Try a magnet to check.

Best regards,
Mike

[Sam Buchanan]

Originally Posted by mbauer

Try a magnet to check.

Best regards,
Mike

The correct sleeves are copper.........