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  #1  
Old 04-05-2018, 06:45 AM
Freemasm Freemasm is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Orlando
Posts: 195
Default Rivet Bench Ideas

Going to start building a work (rivet) bench this weekend. Any suggestions, ideas, lessons learned, plans, etc. would be greatly appreciated i.e. height, removable section for back riveting plate and/or C-frame. I'm assuming this is one of those projects that most would do differently if previous build experience was considered. Much thanks.
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  #2  
Old 04-05-2018, 06:51 AM
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rvanstory rvanstory is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New Braunfels
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Default

I built two of these with a 2" overhang on all 4 sides (for clamps, vice, etc...) They work great! Some have done back rivet plate cutout. I did not. I did put carpet on one to reduce scratches. No regrets.

http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/w...l/tablefig.htm
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  #3  
Old 04-05-2018, 06:57 AM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
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Default

My primary suggestion is to have a LOT of mass and rigidity in the bench top. Mine was made from a section of maple bowling lane. 1" thick x ~3" wide strips of solid maple, joined butcher block fashion to make a 3" thick work surface.

Not important for riveting, but for dimpling using a C-frame, either make it massive and rigid or just put the C-frame on a concrete floor. Otherwise, you probably won't be happy with your dimples.

Size is largely driven by your work space. Mine is ~42" wide (bowling lane width) x ~58" long (the length of the piece of lane I had left from another project). It worked fine for me, even when doing final riveting of my wing skins.

Charlie
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  #4  
Old 04-05-2018, 07:18 AM
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sbal0906 sbal0906 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
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Castoring wheels are useful. Depending on your shop layout, it's helpful to be able to move the work around, rotate it, etc...

I think some people have even made them retractable.
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  #5  
Old 04-05-2018, 08:24 AM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
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Default EAA Benches

I built two EAA benches plus a third from the leftover. I would do it again.
I use a section of 1/4" plywood with a hole for the back rivet plate when needed. Pretty seldom used. The C-frame needs stability so it gets clamped over the legs when needed where force can go straight down.
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Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
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  #6  
Old 04-05-2018, 10:29 AM
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ppilotmike ppilotmike is offline
 
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Location: Denver, CO
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I wouldn't mount anything to your benches. I built 3 tables and originally thought I would mount my grinder, sander, band saw and drill press to one, creating a movable "machining area." However, what I've determined, over the course of my build so far, is that it's far better to be able to move things around and set them up as needed. People that incorporate dimplers, back-riveting plates and other things into their tables quickly find that there is some compromise that's made because of how they mount those items. Keep things movable, is my advice.

Now, that doesn't mean you shouldn't think about how you're going to clamp things in place in order to use them. For instance, my DRDT2 dimpler clamps beautifully across my table, with a clamp on each side. I have a mat that I use with the back-riveting plate that's just the right thickness, so the material slides right across the plate. I have cross clamps that I use to secure items vertically across my tables. Also, my tables are able to be used in conjunction with each other (i.e. they can be set up side to side, or lengthwise with each other to turn into larger work surfaces.)
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  #7  
Old 04-05-2018, 10:42 AM
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Mike S Mike S is online now
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I just finished up a pair of benches for my wife to use with her stained glass work, based them on the EAA 1000 design. I did one slight modification which was to cut the 4'x8' plywood into a 4'x6' and a 2'x4'. modified the size of the support platforms to fit.

These turned out to be very sturdy and stable workbenches. For riveting, I would add a pair of legs to the long side of the 4'x6' bench just out to take any tendency to flex.

http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/w...l/tablefig.htm
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  #8  
Old 04-05-2018, 10:50 AM
redbaron redbaron is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Lucerne,Ca
Posts: 272
Default 1000 tables

I have used 2 1000 tables that I carpeted for the last 2 years. I mounted a vice at one corner, mounted with lag screws for easy removal. worked out great.
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  #9  
Old 04-05-2018, 10:52 AM
Scbado Scbado is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 81
Default Modified EAA Workbench

I took the EAA 1000 workbench and modified it. I increased the width and length to what I thought I needed. For the top I used 2 sheets of 3/4 thick plywood glued & screwed together then a final top sheet of 1/8? heat treated hardboard nailed on with finishing nails. When the hardboard gets too beat up I just peel it up and replace it with a new sheet of hardboard. Presto almost a new bench again. I also made sure there is a overhang for clamping too. I did add retractable wheels that I got off of Amazon. The wheels are not needed but an excellent addition. Make moving around the shop very easy. I made two of them so I can put them end to end for extra length or back to back for extra width if needed. I glued & screwed the workbenches together. They are VERY solid and will last a lifetime plus. I can get the dimensions if you are interested.
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  #10  
Old 04-05-2018, 11:06 AM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
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Default Bench mounting

Quote:
Originally Posted by ppilotmike View Post
I wouldn't mount anything to your benches. I built 3 tables and originally thought I would mount my grinder, sander, band saw and drill press to one, creating a movable "machining area." However, what I've determined, over the course of my build so far, is that it's far better to be able to move things around and set them up as needed. People that incorporate dimplers, back-riveting plates and other things into their tables quickly find that there is some compromise that's made because of how they mount those items. Keep things movable, is my advice.

Now, that doesn't mean you shouldn't think about how you're going to clamp things in place in order to use them. For instance, my DRDT2 dimpler clamps beautifully across my table, with a clamp on each side. I have a mat that I use with the back-riveting plate that's just the right thickness, so the material slides right across the plate. I have cross clamps that I use to secure items vertically across my tables. Also, my tables are able to be used in conjunction with each other (i.e. they can be set up side to side, or lengthwise with each other to turn into larger work surfaces.)
+1. I should have mentioned that. The two 1000 benches have predrilled holes for various tools like a vice, bending brake, etc but nothing permanently mounted. They get moved around a lot and sometimes removed. When the top gets rough, I coat it with drywall compound. Let dry and knock it off with 80 grit then smooth it with 220. New top.
The one 3'x4' bench has the drill press, grinder, band saw, vice and sander bolted in place. It stays in place.
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Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
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Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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