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  #11  
Old 03-26-2018, 02:45 PM
DaveO DaveO is offline
 
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Thanks for all the responses. They give me much to think about. I was thinking about using fiberglass for the panels, but maybe aluminum would be better if I do them.
Dave
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  #12  
Old 03-26-2018, 02:58 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
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Location: Pocahontas MS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davoakes@att.net View Post
Thanks for all the responses. They give me much to think about. I was thinking about using fiberglass for the panels, but maybe aluminum would be better if I do them.
Dave
Unless you're really good with 'glass, aluminum will be easier. Fiberglass, especially hand layup, will be thicker (requires spacing the backing to compensate) and inconsistent thickness, and weaker at the point loads of the screws. It's not difficult at all to make the cover plate in aluminum. Just cut a bit oversize as others have said, and work it with files/scotchbrite wheels to make it fit the hole (remember to make allowance for paint).

Charlie
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  #13  
Old 03-26-2018, 04:19 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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As already mentioned, if you make openings in a structural skin, you should at least be using AC 43.13 as a guide for maintaining the the same strength as what the uninterrupted skin had.
This would be a lot easier to do by using the same materials vs switching to fiberglass laminate.
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  #14  
Old 03-26-2018, 04:33 PM
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sglynn sglynn is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sahrens View Post
Here is one solution. I used these on my RV-7, it was faster than fabricating my own.

http://www.mykitairplane.com/product...rvak/index.htm
Oh, I like this pre-made kit for access plates. I'm just finishing wiring on my 7A and asking myself the same question, "How will I maintain the things behind the subpanel?" From underneath is my answer, but that is beginning to seem impossible. It takes good skill to cut and make straight lines. Plus the extra material is expensive, especially if you scrap some. This kit really simplifies make the access. You only have to cut the access hole.
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  #15  
Old 03-26-2018, 06:14 PM
jliltd jliltd is offline
 
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Location: Rancho San Lorenzo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
As already mentioned, if you make openings in a structural skin, you should at least be using AC 43.13 as a guide for maintaining the the same strength as what the uninterrupted skin had.
This would be a lot easier to do by using the same materials vs switching to fiberglass laminate.
Exactly. Follow AC 43.13 as Scott says. The strength can be maintained but only the weight will go up due to reinforcing and fasteners.

But I have to admit. Once you have one of those 10" + glass displays, when removed it yields a huge access panel and makes life great when working on the backside of the panel. That alone is a big plus for those big square TV looking thingys.

Jim
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  #16  
Old 03-26-2018, 06:15 PM
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TCONROY TCONROY is offline
 
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I put 2 access panels in my -7 Tip-Up during construction and after 3 years of flying would absolutely do it again. I have the VP-X, remote transponder, and other avionics equipment just aft of the firewall and it is a bit difficult to get to when the interior is in. he access panels make it SO easy. I made doublers for the forward skin with two rows of rivets around the perimeter and brought them over to Van's. One of the engineers unofficially blessed it so I moved ahead with it.
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  #17  
Old 03-26-2018, 07:42 PM
JDA_BTR JDA_BTR is offline
 
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What do you do to prevent water intrusion?
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  #18  
Old 03-26-2018, 08:33 PM
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TCONROY TCONROY is offline
 
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I smeared a very thin coat of the FlameMaster (makers of ProSeal) access panel sealant before securing the covers. I can't remember the model number of the sealant off the top of my head. Water has never been an issue.
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  #19  
Old 03-26-2018, 09:44 PM
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joe_rainbolt joe_rainbolt is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Northern California
Posts: 91
Default Access panels double as GPS antenna mounts

In my access panels I used fiber glass instead of aluminum. The access panels incorporate molded in mounts for GPS antennas. There are three total in my system and all are working great in this location with an excellent view of the sky. I find this location to be superior to the engine compartment or on top of the cowling.

I did not do an FEA on the air frame after I cut out the panels (I seriously doubt Vans did one either for the RV7) I kept the opening size as small as was reasonable that would still accommodate the antennas and I used the same spacing for the screws as was used for the rivets bonding the skin to the air frame. The screws were #6.

I have my VPX Sport mounted directly behind the panels and I've had to take that out twice in two years. I've also added another GPS antenna in that time. I think I've opened the panels 4 or 5 times in the two years and I am very happy that I took the time out to build them.

I neglected to take any pictures with the GPS antennas installed, but here is a photo that shows the sizing.

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  #20  
Old 03-26-2018, 11:07 PM
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Av8torTom Av8torTom is offline
 
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Default Not so sure

I would argue that cut-outs in the skin, like the OP made, with a frame riveted around the opening and the 'doors' screwed into the frame nutplates would be stronger than the original un-opened skin. This is similar to putting a sun roof into a car. Despite removing all that metal, the sun roof frame actually stiffens and strengthens the roof.

Nice job Al.
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