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  #1  
Old 05-09-2007, 02:09 PM
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MrNomad MrNomad is offline
 
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Location: Tucson, AZ
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Question Where do we cut the front section of the canopy on a 9 slider??

We're working on the front section of the canopy on a 9A slider.

The question is where to cut the lower edge of the front section as it approaches the roll bar.

Please look at the attached pictures. Note the black lines, upper and lower. We THINK the next cut is to the upper line. Obviously, we don't want to get this wrong.

Suggestions and comments are welcome.

I tried to import the pic but in case it doesn't appear, here is the link to the actual photos.

Thanks folks.

http://www.arizonaairparks.com/rv-canopy



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  #2  
Old 05-09-2007, 05:13 PM
9Driver 9Driver is offline
 
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Check out this link www.n2prise.org/index.htm. This is Jerry Thorne's home page on his 9A. Look at page 100 - it shows how he did it. he has a pretty good photo layout of his construction.
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  #3  
Old 05-09-2007, 05:16 PM
Jaknjoan Jaknjoan is offline
 
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Default Where to cut?

From my interpretation of your pictures on your link, I surely would not cut the side near the roll bar where you have the black line. I would suggest you leave that side plexi exactly where you have it now and round the corner to lie flat against the top (unriveted) skin. Then take your belt sander and taper that edge to blend into the top skin. Taper back about 1/2 to 3/4 inch (all of this will later be hidden when you epoxy in the windshield). To hold the wrap around portion of the windshield, drill two #6 screw holes for #6 flush screws (oversize to allow for expansion), countersink the plexi and fasten through the side of the top skin, putting acorn nuts on the inside (protruding to inside of cockpit) to keep from getting scratched. For appearance, be symetrical on each side.
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Old 05-10-2007, 07:11 AM
Steve Steve is offline
 
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Location: Roy, Utah
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I called Van's with the same question last month. They said the windshield lower side edge is cut tangent to the top of the skin, as in your photo and as not-so-clearly shown on the print. They also said its OK for the windshield to slightly overlap the skin. The joint will be covered by the fairing material of your choice. Do NOT split the aft/side leg of the forward skin to allow the plexi to slip underneath ala RV-6.

Big cut this weekend,
Steve
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  #5  
Old 05-10-2007, 05:59 PM
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jimski9 jimski9 is offline
 
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Steve - Did Van's give a reason for not cutting the skin to allow the plexi to be inside the aluminum at the roll bar? Having the aluminum on the outside and the plexi inside at the roll bar would seem logical as it matches the way the slider plexi is inside the side skirts. I have seen several builder sites that have done it this way.

Jim Talbot
RV7A FWF
Tauranga
New Zealand
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  #6  
Old 05-11-2007, 07:06 AM
Steve Steve is offline
 
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My specific question was, " ... it appears that on drawing #xx, for sliders, the lower side edge of the windshield is tangent to the upper side edge of the forward skin. Is this correct?" The answer was "yes but a bit of overlap would also be OK." I was told anything more than a slight overlap may lead to too large of a bulge to cover up. Of course, manufacturing (builder) tolerances may allow other options.
I've also seen those -7 and -9 web sites where the builder slotted the side skin allowing the plexi to slip underneath, as on the -6.

Steve
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Old 05-11-2007, 08:04 AM
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Rick_A Rick_A is offline
 
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Default Asked about slotting the skin...

I had the exact same question when I trimmed my windshield and got the same answer from Vans. I also specifically asked about slotting the skin and was told that that design point changed, NOT to slot the skin and to do it the way that is shown on the plans. This series of posts clarifies what is shown in the plans.
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  #8  
Old 05-11-2007, 09:51 AM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick_A
.......
I also specifically asked about slotting the skin and was told that that design point changed, NOT to slot the skin and to do it the way that is shown on the plans.
..........
For the -6 models, it appears to have changed in 2001 with the release of the CAD drawing SC-1B that replaced the earlier hand drawn sheets.

gil in Tucson
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