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  #51  
Old 02-28-2018, 05:40 PM
Jim T Jim T is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Independence, OR
Posts: 228
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bob1393 View Post
I received the SB kit today. There were no barrel clips in any of the bags and they are not listed on the parts sheet.

Also - the two K-1000 nut plates were missing as well as the 2 cotter pins.
Just for reference. I got my kit about a week ago and my clips, cotter keys and nut plates were in the bag with the LP4-3 rivets. I didn't get a parts sheet.

Jim
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RV-12 kit (sold)

2006 Rans S-6S Coyote (flying)

Last edited by Jim T : 02-28-2018 at 05:42 PM. Reason: additional info
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  #52  
Old 02-28-2018, 06:17 PM
AirHound AirHound is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: St Louis, MO
Posts: 323
Default HS stab removal process

I?m not the builder. Just thinking through the steps and early comments. Some posts indicate different kit contents, one or no clips, etc, and a couple pioneers indicate different HS removal process steps from sb steps ie; removal of HS horn cables rather than loosening cable adjusters. Perhaps the clips are not necessary and not intended if strict sb steps are followed, therefore the inconsistent amount of clips supplied - as in not really needed. Question I don?t want to hassle with the turnbuckles if the HS horn cable disconnection step in the sb is practical. Specifically, what makes one chose one way to deal with the cables or the other. I?m waiting on parts just trying to understand others comments and make best choices. Thanks! Doug in IL


Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
They did move it!
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  #53  
Old 02-28-2018, 06:46 PM
MrSparkle MrSparkle is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 12
Default Are these cracks or scratches?

I've been unable to get guidance as to whether what is shown in the following five images are cracks or scratches.

Whatever they are, they are tiny and as you can see they are super close to the rivet's manufactured head. If they are cracks, do I drill a hole so close to the rivet; and when the drill bit works through the spar web won't it then bite into the rivet's shop head, or the nutplate itself? Or should I just move on with the installation of the SB kit?

Thanks for your thoughts.

Ian Heritch
RV-12 N417E









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  #54  
Old 02-28-2018, 07:03 PM
AirHound AirHound is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: St Louis, MO
Posts: 323
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Ian, which method did you use to disconnect the cables?
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  #55  
Old 02-28-2018, 07:16 PM
MrSparkle MrSparkle is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 12
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Doug, if you are asking about the stabilator control cables, I simply unbolted them, which was not too difficult. Reattaching may be a different story.

Ian
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  #56  
Old 02-28-2018, 07:21 PM
MrSparkle MrSparkle is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 12
Default Magnaflux Dye Penetrant Kit Available

SOLD

Magnaflux dye penetrant kit SK-416 purchased for SB 18-02-02 for sale in the Classified forum.

Ian Heritch
RV-12, N417E

Last edited by MrSparkle : 02-28-2018 at 07:55 PM.
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  #57  
Old 02-28-2018, 07:28 PM
AirHound AirHound is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: St Louis, MO
Posts: 323
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Thanks Ian, what did you use to strip the paint off? Sorry for these basic questions, I didn?t build mine. Your photos below are a challenge to interpret if they are cracks or not. Can?t wait to hear what the pros respond with. Soon we hope!
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  #58  
Old 02-28-2018, 07:47 PM
MrSparkle MrSparkle is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 12
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Doug, fortunately I did not have any paint to remove as the front spar was never painted. The red residue you see in my photos is from the dye penetrant.

Ian
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  #59  
Old 02-28-2018, 08:17 PM
rsipp rsipp is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 49
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Ian, I'm certainly no expert but those marks all appear to be tooling or chip marks from a counter sink.
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  #60  
Old 02-28-2018, 08:24 PM
RFSchaller RFSchaller is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 2,818
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I had a really tough paint to remove. I went to Home Depot and asked for their strongest stripper to deal with polyurethane paint. Works pretty well, but you have to use several applications. On the up side I don?t worry about the effects of a gas spill on the paint anymore!😁
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