Rudder Pedals And Brake Pedals Questions

[mfleming]

Originally Posted by RV7ator

Van's brake pedal is one of the few points of really bad design. Drill your pedal assemblies apart and rerivet the angles to the aft side (the side your feet press) to set the pedal surface 7/8" further forward. You're far less likely to inadvertently brake when all you want is rudder/steering with your toes on the bar. Prepunched hole accuracy lets you do this by swapping parts left-right/fore/aft to make the rearrangement. It's worth the trouble now.

John Siebold

I haven't riveted yet so that is an easy option. I'll rearrange the angles and see how it looks.

Being a -7, inadvertent brake application is not on my list of fun experiences

[mfleming]

Originally Posted by gasman

Just make sure you have the proper tilt to the pedals and you won't have the dragging brake problem. Do not set up the pedals to match the vertical weldment. They must tilt toward the firewall. Your feet don't point straight up sitting in an RV.

What's a good tilt? ?" or so?

[bill v]

in reading posts about the brakes I never hear any talk about the thickness of the washers that take up the distance between the weldment and the pedal on my 4 and now the 7 the drawing show the washers but I think a note stating as required would eliminate this "binding" as everyone of mine needed different thickness of washers to fill the gap and not bind. most are home made washers of what I had of various thickness.

[mfleming]

Originally Posted by bill v

in reading posts about the brakes I never hear any talk about the thickness of the washers that take up the distance between the weldment and the pedal on my 4 and now the 7 the drawing show the washers but I think a note stating as required would eliminate this "binding" as everyone of mine needed different thickness of washers to fill the gap and not bind. most are home made washers of what I had of various thickness.

My -7 plans call for the AN960-10L thin washer to be between the weldment and the pedal. In my case those thin washers barley slipped between the gap...there's definitely no slop.

I don't see how the long bolt prevents any binding. Unless the tabs flex, which I would be surprised they did.

[Mike S]

Originally Posted by mfleming

I don't see how the long bolt prevents any binding. Unless the tabs flex, which I would be surprised they did.

The long bolts make sure the two sides are on a common axis for the pivot motion. Two separate bolts can end up being on different axis's and cause binding. Also, best to use a long drill and run it through both sides at the same time.

[alpinelakespilot2000]

Originally Posted by Mike S

Also, best to use a long drill and run it through both sides at the same time.

Yes. If you don't do this you're likely to get more binding by using one long bolt than if you just used two separate bolts per plans. That's what happened to me when I tried to "upgrade" to a long bolt. That said, in my opinion, the two-bolts per plans will work just fine.

[mfleming]

Originally Posted by alpinelakespilot2000

...... That said, in my opinion, the two-bolts per plans will work just fine.

Yes, I'm not convinced from an engineering standpoint that $50 worth of bolts is going to cure anything.

The tabs are predrilled, if they are not on the same axis now, all that can be done is enlarge one of the holes and we don't want that.

After reading as much as I can on the long bolts, I'm pretty convinced that the real problem is the week return spring in the Matco master cylinders. So I'll be adding those to my to do list.

[mfleming]

Originally Posted by JonJay

.......Your center bearing block should have washers installed as spacers to take up what was lost when you cut them. Those spacers also give clearance for the powder coat. If it binds, put in a thicker washer (spacer).

I confirmed with Van's that the powder coat is left on and the center bearing blocks are installed exactly as you describe.

[terrye]

I didn't use the $50 bolts. Instead I got a piece of 3/16" SS rod and threaded and drilled each end for a nut and cotter pin. The pedals will work much better with a thru pivot than two separate ones.

[BillL]

Originally Posted by mfleming

Yes, I'm not convinced from an engineering standpoint that $50 worth of bolts is going to cure anything.

The tabs are predrilled, if they are not on the same axis now, all that can be done is enlarge one of the holes and we don't want that.

After reading as much as I can on the long bolts, I'm pretty convinced that the real problem is the week return spring in the Matco master cylinders. So I'll be adding those to my to do list.

Since you brought up engineering - look at the moment applied to the short bolts. That shear force and resulting moment rotates the bolts in the sloppy holes and will cause them to bind. Use the long bolts and you won't back here later lamenting about poor pad life and overheating/dragging brakes.

I bought the return springs, but did not install them, the bolts ( I like the stainless shaft idea) resulted in allowing the light internal springs of the master cylinders to return and open the fill hole. I tested them with some air pressure to ensure that the fill ports were uncovered.

One thing that also affects possible hangup - that is the stiffness of the hoses on the pressure side. That stiffness is not trivial and could contribute to the inability of the master plunger to fully return. I am keeping an eye on this as part of phase I. (Validation)