Skybolt installation

[TCONROY]

Did you get the cleco adapters? They made that task very straight forward. I got all the flanges installed, used clear tape to temporarily attach the cleco adapters into the large hole on the flanges, and then installed the cowling. I used a flashlight to shine through the underside of the cowling through the oil door and that allowed me to drill a 1/8 hole through the top and bottom cowling and secure a cleco. This process was problem free for me.
Here is a link to my build log showing the process.
http://www.n781td.com/logindex/FWF/2014.12.02.htm

http://www.n781td.com/logindex/FWF/2014.12.03.htm

[N941WR]

First, I marked on the forward skin, where the fasteners should go, so there was no guessing on the spacing.

Then I put a trouble light in the engine compartment, shining up. This allowed me to see the tabs.

I drilled the top center one first and installed the fastener.

After replacing the top cowl, I snugged it down with ratchet straps and drilled the left and right holes. I used a cleco to hold the first hole while I drilled the second one.

The cowl was then removed, fasteners added, and reinstalled the cowl. I repeated those steps until I was finished.

When it came time for the bottom cowl, I started at the bottom edge and worked towards the center.

Then I moved to the bottom and worked up the side. This allowed me to finish sand the bottom cowl to match the top one.

Next up was the side fasteners. I started at the firewall and moved forward.

Good luck!

[Maxrate]

I know this is an old thread but relavent to where I?m at in the process. I?m riveting up the remaining side and bottom skins before flipping the canoe. Obviously the side and bottom skins have to be dimple counter sunk at this point around the firewall. Later when installing the sky bolt fasteners around the firewall flange won?t the dimples interfere with the interlocking Skybolt flanges?

[jump4way]

If I?m understanding you?re question correctly, you should be able to countersink the flanges to account for the dimples. The skybolt flanges are either .040 or .063 so you have enough thickness to countersink.

[BillL]

Originally Posted by Maxrate

I know this is an old thread but relavent to where I?m at in the process. I?m riveting up the remaining side and bottom skins before flipping the canoe. Obviously the side and bottom skins have to be dimple counter sunk at this point around the firewall. Later when installing the sky bolt fasteners around the firewall flange won?t the dimples interfere with the interlocking Skybolt flanges?

Having dimples done before the skyloc's definitely adds some challenge. You will likely need a spacer too and the drill and dimple process for a long spacer under around a curve requires progressive drilling and dimpling. You might make a couple of thicknesses of spacers before you dimple. That might make the task easier. To your question, I found no particular issues with the existing dimples specific to the skylocs. And I was picky.

[Maxrate]

Bill, do you have a build site that I might be able to reference?

[sahrens]

I dimpled the side skins and firewall flanges when I was preparing that area for riveting. The dimples did not make it a lot more difficult when I was adding the Skybolt flanges. But it did add to the challenge. Once I located and drilled the Skybolt flanges to match the side and top skins, I countersunk the Skybolt flanges so they would nest correctly.

I felt that was a better method than attempting to dimple the skin and the firewall flange together after riveting the side skins. Here is my build log

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/catego...category=11167

While on the topic I used Don Jones technique for laying out the Skybolt flanges.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...hlight=skybolt

[BillL]

Originally Posted by Maxrate

Bill, do you have a build site that I might be able to reference?

No, sorry Max. PM/Email if you have questions and I will gladly send photos that are available.

Originally Posted by sahrens

I dimpled the side skins and firewall flanges when I was preparing that area for riveting. The dimples did not make it a lot more difficult when I was adding the Skybolt flanges. But it did add to the challenge. Once I located and drilled the Skybolt flanges to match the side and top skins, I countersunk the Skybolt flanges so they would nest correctly.

I felt that was a better method than attempting to dimple the skin and the firewall flange together after riveting the side skins. Here is my build log

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/catego...category=11167

While on the topic I used Don Jones technique for laying out the Skybolt flanges.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...hlight=skybolt

I did find that attempting to rivet all the layers together, that a final squeeze with the dimple dies to compress and finally align each hole just before setting the rivet yielded a nicely compressed stack and a straight/flat fuse skin. Dimple squeeze, rivet set, repeat.

You might want to consider adding your fire barrier in the riveting process and the nooks and crannies are hard to access afterward. I did not .
As always, YMMV

PS I used a single piece straight top rail for the cowl split not the skylocs. All those jagged pieces sticking up just make the upper cowl installation more difficult (per DanH).

[Maxrate]

Very helpful all. I just wanted to see how hard the skylocks would be before I got too happy with the dimple dies. Also do y?all recommend 100% fasteners or just firewall with the hinges along the sides of the cowling. Thanks!

[Kyle Boatright]

Originally Posted by Maxrate

Very helpful all. I just wanted to see how hard the skylocks would be before I got too happy with the dimple dies. Also do y?all recommend 100% fasteners or just firewall with the hinges along the sides of the cowling. Thanks!

It is very much a personal preference.

On my RV-6 I have vertical hinges along the firewall and the horizontal hinges between the cowl halves. I have #6 screws along the bottom and top of the firewall. That's been a great setup for me except for the time it takes to remove and reinstall all of the screws.

On the RV-10, I'm going with hinges in the same places, but Milspec fasteners along the top and bottom of the firewall to eliminate the time I currently spend on the screws.