Seeking input regarding hangar lighting

[Brett H]

I am having a 51' wide by 64' deep by 12' high hangar built.

The front 40' will be hangar and the back 24' will be an enclosed shop.

The electrician is proposing using Eaton LED lights.

1.) Regarding the shop area, if the CRI greater than 80, what is an appropriate temperature? Namely, with the CRI greater than 80 should the temperature be greater than 3500 K?

2.) For the shop area, is 50 FC a minimum or recommendation? My goal is that the shop area should be lighted like one would for a work bench. So, since this new construction, it would better to cover the need now rather than add later.

3.) The proposed lights are the Eaton Metalux Value High Bay Linear LED VHBLED-LD1 lights. Any concern that in the shop that they will only be at an a 10 1/2 foot height due needing to be 1 1/2 from the ceiling and at 12 foot height in the hangar (i.e. mounted between the rafters)?

Thanks.
Brett H
Columbus, IN
RV-12 Finishing Kit

[JonJay]

80 CRI is good. Color temp is subjective. I like 3500-4000k. I do not like higher Color temps but some do.
50 FC is what I recommend for general lighting and building. You may need to supplement on your work bench for fine work but it is a waste to light any higher across that large of a space. I have lit dozens of hangars and shops to 50 FC. It works well as long as your uniformity is good.

That fixture appears to have good optics shielding the LED array. For your low mounting height, you would want the wide distribution, not the narrow. You also want the lumen package on the lower side of what is available in that product.
FC are an average. You can get 50FC with higher lumen fixtures, and fewer fixtures, but your "Max to Min" gets out of whack and you lose uniformity. There is a balance between cost and coverage.

If you have the layout they are using feel free to send it to me and I wcan review it for you.

All in all, I think you are on the right track.

[RV7Guy]

I live in a residential airpark and have seen a diversity of lighting. My neighbor just put these lights in and they are amazing. We have 1800 sq ft hangars, 45x40 with 15 foot ceilings. Another neighbor and I are ordering these lights. Very easy to install. Sort of expensive but you don't want to sacrifice on the lighting.


https://www.eledlights.com/led-lamps...l#.Wnz032aZPow

[Brett H]

Originally Posted by JonJay

80 CRI is good. Color temp is subjective. I like 3500-4000k. I do not like higher Color temps but some do.
50 FC is what I recommend for general lighting and building. You may need to supplement on your work bench for fine work but it is a waste to light any higher across that large of a space. I have lit dozens of hangars and shops to 50 FC. It works well as long as your uniformity is good.

That fixture appears to have good optics shielding the LED array. For your low mounting height, you would want the wide distribution, not the narrow. You also want the lumen package on the lower side of what is available in that product.
FC are an average. You can get 50FC with higher lumen fixtures, and fewer fixtures, but your "Max to Min" gets out of whack and you lose uniformity. There is a balance between cost and coverage.

If you have the layout they are using feel free to send it to me and I wcan review it for you.

All in all, I think you are on the right track.

Thanks for the response. I sent you a Private Message.

Brett H
Columbus, IN
RV-12 Finish Kit

[David Paule]

A friend of mine has a wisecrack that was originally about something else, but it applies to lighting, too:

"Too much is almost enough."

With lighting, that applies especially as you get older.

The thing about airplanes and workbenches, at least in my experience, is that the work tends to shift around the shop as the construction progresses. So uniformly good lighting is a good thing to have.

Dave

[Lenny Iszak]

High CRI doesn't do any good if they flicker, and most of them do.

I got 9 of these in my hangar. They use high quality Meanwell drivers, Phillips LEDs and most importantly (to me anyway) have zero flicker.

http://ledking.us/hikashop-menu-for-...00w-chain-only

[JonJay]

Originally Posted by RV7Guy

I live in a residential airpark and have seen a diversity of lighting. My neighbor just put these lights in and they are amazing. We have 1800 sq ft hangars, 45x40 with 15 foot ceilings. Another neighbor and I are ordering these lights. Very easy to install. Sort of expensive but you don't want to sacrifice on the lighting.


https://www.eledlights.com/led-lamps...l#.Wnz032aZPow

The Eaton product the OP's electrician is recommending is better suited for a 10' mounting height. Better distribution and better glare control = better visual acuity.
19000 lumens is too hot at that height. Surface brightness /shielding come into play. You don't want to introduce low angle brightness.
13-15' mounting height for this tyoe of product can do well although a 19000 lumen product better have good glare control even at that height, especially with the lack of any refractor except the flat lens.

[JonJay]

Originally Posted by Lenny Iszak

High CRI doesn't do any good if they flicker, and most of them do.

I got 9 of these in my hangar. They use high quality Meanwell drivers, Phillips LEDs and most importantly (to me anyway) have zero flicker.

http://ledking.us/hikashop-menu-for-...00w-chain-only

Always review the product spec sheets to insure the products meet IES standards.

[BMC_Dave]

Or save your money and make your own.

[RogerG]

We are an Electrical Distributor (No name mentioned here since not an advertiser), and sell most major brands of High Bay lighting.

Our most popular High Bay fixture is the Philips Day-Brite FBX in the 24,000 lumen package, 5K color temp. Other lumen packages available up to 45,000.
http://www.lightingproducts.philips....-high-bay.html
One unique feature of the Philips FBX fixture is that an optional factory installed feature called Spacewise can be ordered which will allow the grouping of fixtures from the ground using a remote. This feature allows groups of fixtures to turn on/off or dim depending on occupancy without additional building wiring.

Some other brands to consider would be Eaton Cooper Lighting, and RAB Lighting, all good quality lighting with confidence you would be able to get replacement parts if needed down the road. There is many off shore fixtures that at first look seem to be a good deal, but if problems come up down the road it could be a problem.

Most Electrical distributors will gladly do a lighting layout for you free of charge. This will help you predict the FC, and placement of fixtures.

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