Rocker switch action and conventions

[CubedRoot]

Originally Posted by az_gila

NOT CORRECT.

If you look hard there are many variations. The switch I linked to in the "post #7" reference is a simple ON/OFF switch with two independent light circuits.

I will check today, but I believe the switches can be mounted upside down so ON can be top or bottom depressed.

Also note that the custom printed back-lit actuators are more of a symmetrical nature than the curved rockers in the Aerosport picture. I'll post a pic later today.

The switch you linked to has INCANDESCENT indicators, not LED, probably not worth investing in was my point. Carling DOES make a SPST switch with two independent LED indicators, but they are hard to find from most of these online "custom" etch suppliers (like rockerswitchpros.com).

When I was getting setup to become a retailer for those Carling Countours, they didn't have any suppliers that was selling a SPST, two LED independent indicators body. I would have had to buy them directly from Carling in lots of 2000. Now, that was about 4 years ago, so maybe a supplier in the US will sell in smaller lots now-a-days.

rockerswitchpros.com DOES NOT sell a SPST with dual independent indicators.

[rleffler]

Originally Posted by Mike S

I would say it was off.

Correct, the illumination indicates the circuit status.

There is another version of the switch that is DPDT that illuminates based upon the position of the switch, either up or down. The switch on the left is my alternator switch. Up is the main alt, down is the standby, and in the middle is off.

The switch isn't lit in this photo and this is an early implementation of my original panel. It's been changed multiple times over the past five years of flying, including some of the switches. I couldn't find a better photo online.

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by Mike S

I would say it was off.

Originally Posted by Mike S

You could also label it "Push On"

If I were making my own switch covers, that is how I would do it.

Or, for the maximum of overkill for the OCD types--------switch identifying label in the center, top part labeled push on, bottom labeled push off.

No Carling back lighting available for a center label. Pity, 'cos that would be a nice solution.

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by CubedRoot

The switch you linked to has INCANDESCENT indicators, not LED, probably not worth investing in was my point. Carling DOES make a SPST switch with two independent LED indicators, but they are hard to find from most of these online "custom" etch suppliers (like rockerswitchpros.com).

When I was getting setup to become a retailer for those Carling Countours, they didn't have any suppliers that was selling a SPST, two LED independent indicators body. I would have had to buy them directly from Carling in lots of 2000. Now, that was about 4 years ago, so maybe a supplier in the US will sell in smaller lots now-a-days.

rockerswitchpros.com DOES NOT sell a SPST with dual independent indicators.

At a 10,000 hr projected lifetime for the little incandescent lamps I'm fine with non-LED.

I wasn't going to rockerswitchpros.com. There is no need to buy the actuators and switch bodies from the same vendor. I previously linked to this one with two poles, ON/OFF and two independent lamps. I will be happy with that version, and so will VPX with the slightly funny wiring it needs.

https://otrattw.net/V-SERIES-SEALED-...NO-ROCKER.html

From Carling -

Incandescent - rated 10,000 hours
Neon - rated 25,000 hours
LED - rated 100,000 hours 1/2 life

I'm OK with that. Heck it's 5 times better than the Lycoming noise maker up front.

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by rleffler

Correct, the illumination indicates the circuit status.

There is another version of the switch that is DPDT that illuminates based upon the position of the switch, either up or down. The switch on the left is my alternator switch. Up is the main alt, down is the standby, and in the middle is off.

The switch isn't lit in this photo and this is an early implementation of my original panel. It's been changed multiple times over the past five years of flying, including some of the switches. I couldn't find a better photo online.

I was looking at that sort of option, but it seemed to me that mixing up two position ON/OFF switches with three position ON/OFF/ON switches in the same row may be a bit confusing, and possibly harder to label if you want back illumination of function.

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by Mike S

You could also label it "Push On"

If I were making my own switch covers, that is how I would do it.

Or, for the maximum of overkill for the OCD types--------switch identifying label in the center, top part labeled push on, bottom labeled push off.

Mike, thanks for the comments. This is now what I am thinking.



Bottom back-lit all of the time, top lit with a different color when circuit activated.

Or another variation closer to Verns suggestion, sort of an inverted version of the above. Now top back-lit all of the time and the lower oval being a simple circuit status indicator -



At $10 a pop custom actuators are cheap, but I want to get the wiring sorted out now.

[Mike S]

Originally Posted by az_gila

Mike, thanks for the comments. This is now what I am thinking.



Bottom back-lit all of the time, top lit with a different color when circuit activated.

Welcome, glad to help.

Can the script be moved higher up?

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by Mike S

Welcome, glad to help.

Can the script be moved higher up?

Unfortunately no, it's space left for the icon... but check the second option I just added.

[CubedRoot]

Having the always on light be on the bottom would be preferable.

Carlings will leak a bit of light around the edges of the switch, more so when the actuator is lifted up.

If you have the off position being "down" the actuator will be closer to the base of the switch body, keeping light leakage to a minimum. You could use the bottom light to illuminate your logo since its always on, AND when the switch is in the ON position, the actuator will be gapped up away from the switch base at the bottom, leaking the light towards your feet.

If you use the top light to indicate the circuit being ON, then it will only illuminate when the actuator is in the "ON" position, closing the gap between the base reducing light leakage. Leakage from the top would be critical in night ops, since it would be shining up into the canopy and everything else, including your eyes.

I have a whole bunch of 12v Carlings in storage from where I was tinkering with them considering selling them with custom etching. I have them in all sorts of combinations and wirings. If I can get a chance, I will mount a few up and wire them and shoot a video showing the light leakage.

There some photos on rockerswitchpros.com that illustrates:

This one shows the leakage from the top of the switch when its in the off position with a top illuminated:


This one from a well light shop:



This one is probably the ideal way to handle the leakage:


Notice the switch on the right, its in the UP/ON position, so the leakage is all from the bottom due to the actuator raising on the bottom, and closing towards the switch body on the top.

When I was messing with the ones I had, I was a bit disappointed in the light leakage.

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by CubedRoot

Having the always on light be on the bottom would be preferable.

Carlings will leak a bit of light around the edges of the switch, more so when the actuator is lifted up.

....
When I was messing with the ones I had, I was a bit disappointed in the light leakage.

Thanks for the comments.

Perhaps it might be better to drop the cute icons and go for simple



Bottom always on, top on with circuit.