Bleeding Beringer Brakes

[bkervaski]

Today I'm planning to bleed my Beringer brakes with their bleeding kit. Looks fairly straight forward, but I can't seem to figure out with the reservoir full and brake fluid in the overflow bottle they provide how to back it down to the appropriate level, any advice appreciated! (I may be over complicating the process)

[bkervaski]

Well, half success.

Right pedal is rock solid, left pedal is really mushy. Bled the left side twice, not getting much air.

Any thoughts?

I was going to remove the bold on one side of the master cylinder to let the piston fully extend (if it's not already, can't tell with it on there).

[Xkuzme1]

My RV-4 brakes are hard to bleed. Best is if you have a friend to help.

Have one person at the top with with an air pump and a very low pressure. open the bleeder screws ar the bottom while the person at the top pressurizes the full reservoir for a few seconds. Stop the pressure and close the bleeder screws. Repeat until all the air bubbles stop coming out of the bleeder screws.

It is messy, but it works.

X

[bkervaski]

So you're suggesting from top to bottom? I'm currently bleeding from bottom to top (per the instructions). Reversing directions may push out that air?

[bkervaski]

I got the left side to bleed out, fairly equal pressure from right to left on both sides.

First time bleeding brakes, I assume since it's liquid I need to let it set a while for air to work its way out and test again before determining if I need to continue bleeding.

Unfortunately, not sure how hard the brakes are supposed to feel. Got some transition training coming up, I'll make a mental note then.

[Xkuzme1]

That is what worked for me on the RV-4 where the brakes are nutritiously hard to bleed.

[bugsy63]

I have Beringer brakes on my aircraft and used the their Brake Bleed kit. I still have the firewall mounted reservoir. This is my method and it works first time, every time.

Certainly it's a two person job and is done from the bottom up. Assuming you have the sintered plug on top of the reservoir, replace that with a suitable hose barb fitting and connect the overflow bottle to it.

The great tip I got from Beringer is to place the master cylinders in the horizontal position when bleeding by removing the lower attachment bolts. I held them in this alignment with cable ties.

Attach the hose from the pressure bottle to the bleed nibble on the brake caliper and by opening the nipple allow the pressure to push fluid through the system. Have the person monitoring the overflow bottle at the fluid reservoir tell you when you have a solid stream of fluid flowing into it. At this point close the bleed nipple and release the pressure form the bottle.

My brakes are as solid as a rock.

I hope this helps

[bkervaski]

Michael,

Thanks for the post. How much travel do you have in the pedals before the brakes engage? Mine are solid but no frame of reference for how much the pedal should move, mine move about an inch or so before they engage.

[bugsy63]

I suggest between 1/4 and 1/2 of an inch. It is quite progressive, no mushiness and no indication that I am riding them during taxi. Those who've flown mine are quite envious of how effective they are. I'm going to my hangar tomorrow so I'll check out the travel before engagement.

I've not used the pressure limiting device but it is installed. I do the bleed sequence with it wound completely off.

Again I hope it helps

[bkervaski]

Michael,

Very helpful, thank you!