VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

  #11  
Old 01-29-2018, 08:19 AM
RVbySDI's Avatar
RVbySDI RVbySDI is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Tuttle, Oklahoma
Posts: 2,563
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by N23WL View Post
Mark,

Thanks for responding. Your question is good but I can't answer specifically because my GRT CHT & EGT is unreliable. I ran the engine from startup to operating while conducting a series of IR temperature readings on all cylinders; This includes both at the exhaust manifold and on the cylinder walls.

The temperatures, though not true as they would be from the probes were entirely consistent and within the norms from the start of the test when the engine was cold until full operating temperature. I too was looking for an inconsistency in a cylinder or exhaust temperatures but didn't find one.

That was a good question and I am sorry I did not include that information in my initial post.

Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by tim2542 View Post
You are really handicapped not having the EIS working properly. The info you could download and analyze would greatly simplify your diagnostics.
I think the suggestion to check your valve lash is a good one based on what you?ve told us.
Good luck
Tim Andres
Quote:
Originally Posted by rv8ch View Post
As Tim suggested, I'd call GRT and get the EIS working right. That will really help diagnosis.
I know this does not solve your problem but can you detail exactly why you see your GRT as 'unreliable'? As others have posted, these readings can tell you a lot. I have had many conversations over the years with GRT personnel over the past decade. They are the best when it comes to customer support.

On another note, you might think about looking at fuel injectors. I have not had the stumble you mention but I have had problems with one cylinder that we resolved when we cleaned the injector screens.
__________________
RVBYSDI
Steve
RV9A
https://rvwings.com

Live Long And Prosper! 🖖🏻
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-29-2018, 09:01 AM
N23WL N23WL is offline
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: NE FL
Posts: 18
Default

Darin,

Your message is of particular interest because I suspect I may have been cooking fuel for some time now. I have shielding material available to construct a shield and test it this afternoon. This makes particular sense given the proximity of the fuel lines to the exhaust/and relative easy for me to test. Thanks!

I ordered a new GRT and was not able to get it because of a delay on their part. I have located a distributor and am making progress in getting something going so I have reliable engine readings on all perimeters.
__________________
Andy
2018 Dues Paid
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-29-2018, 11:52 AM
Raymo's Avatar
Raymo Raymo is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Richmond Hill, GA (KLHW)
Posts: 2,189
Default

As you come back to idle, the flow divider comes into play. You might want to disassemble it (it's in the AFP manual) and check for junk - especially since you say you did not install the inline filter.

If you are not comfortable disassembling the flow divider, send it off to Don and he'll check it on the bench for you.

Similarly, the fuel servo has an idle circuit that could be coming into play. It would need to go to Don for that check, IMO.
__________________
Ray
RV-7A - Slider - N495KL - First flt 27 Jan 17
O-360-A4M w/ AFP FM-150 FI, Dual PMags, Vetterman Trombone Exh, SkyTech starter, BandC Alt (PP failed after 226 hrs)
Catto 3 blade NLE, FlightLines Interior, James cowl, plenum & intake, Anti-Splat -14 seat mod and nose gear support
All lines by TSFlightLines (aka Hoser)

Last edited by Raymo : 01-29-2018 at 12:02 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-29-2018, 12:01 PM
airguy's Avatar
airguy airguy is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Garden City, Tx
Posts: 5,145
Default

As for cooking the fuel - it's entirely possible. I double-firesleeved my FWF fuel lines to give them more insulation and put heat shields on the exhaust where it was needed, and that would be more than sufficient for running 100LL. Running Mogas or 91E10 can still be challenging with a good heatsoak.
__________________
Greg Niehues - SEL, IFR, Repairman Cert.
Garden City, TX VAF 2020 dues paid
N16GN flying 700 hrs and counting; IO360, SDS, WWRV200, Dynon HDX, 430W
Built an off-plan RV9A with too much fuel and too much HP. Should drop dead any minute now.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 01-29-2018, 07:15 PM
Steve Melton's Avatar
Steve Melton Steve Melton is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 2,791
Default

check the coils on emags
__________________
Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 800+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.
My Artwork is freely given and published and cannot be patented.
www.rvplasticparts.com
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 01-29-2018, 10:11 PM
bruceh's Avatar
bruceh bruceh is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 2,370
Default

I have similar issues (AFP FI, dual P-mags) with the fuel injection lines boiling in any warm weather (and its always warm in San Diego). Engine just will not idle happily below 1000 rpm when we are taxiing. As long as I have some airspeed on descents the spider lines stay cool enough, but as soon as I land and start taxiing, then I have to keep the rpm's above 1000.

I have the red cube on the firewall, so that adds a bit of unneeded length to the fuel lines firewall forward, and I have the dual mufflers on the Vetterman exhaust, which transfers a lot of heat behind the baffling. Both of these probably contribute. Also I'm swinging a lightweight composite prop. I did try insulating and shielding the spider lines, but it really had no effect. The engine runs fine as soon as the RPM's come up. I just don't let the RPM's go below 1000 when flying. I've heard of some other potential solutions, which is to put in a heavier spring in the fuel flow divider, and/or smaller injector nozzles to keep a bit more pressure on the fuel. Search here and you'll find other threads with the same story.
__________________
Bruce Hill
RV-9A N5771H flown over 800 hours!
http://www.overthehills.com/RV-9A-Project
APRS Tracking for KJ6YRP and New Flying Blog
2020 VAF donator
EAA Tech Counselor, Build assistance - canopy/tanks/fiberglass/electrical/repairs
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 01-30-2018, 03:09 AM
N23WL N23WL is offline
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: NE FL
Posts: 18
Default TMX 360 Missing

Update for everyone that has been good enough to provide suggestions and experience to help resolve this problem. We have looked at each of your posts and are 1) monitoring or have 2) ruled out...R/O for now, at least.

I found the new solenoid I put in earlier (three hours operating time) may have failed. This is an oddity in itself since they rarely go bad. This morning, I'll install a new one and orbit the field and see what happens.

If I have lost a second solenoid, it is time to look closely at what would have caused it, a bad part or something in the charging system.

I'll report.

Thanks
__________________
Andy
2018 Dues Paid
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 01-30-2018, 04:42 AM
Mark Dickens's Avatar
Mark Dickens Mark Dickens is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Collierville, TN (KFYE)
Posts: 1,433
Default

Just a couple thoughts: 1-I've had two bad master solenoids in a row, one was new as replacement for the original that failed before I even moved the plane to the airport. The second was bad out of the box, It happens. 2-be careful when you torque the connectors on the new solenoid as it's easy to over torque them and damage the solenoid. As I recall, no more than 35 in-lbs or something like that.
__________________
RV-8 #81077 Super Slow Build
Dynon Skyview HDX, Titan IOX-370, Dual P-Mags, AFP FM200A FI, Whirlwind 200RV CS Prop
First Flight 11/20/2016
www.marksrv8.com
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 01-30-2018, 09:19 AM
JonJay's Avatar
JonJay JonJay is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battleground
Posts: 4,348
Default

Compression tests often will not show a "sticky valve". I wouldn't rule that out. I can't count how many times members here have reported odd misses and after lengthy troubleshooting, have ultimately found it was a valve that wasn't behaving.
Your EMS is invaluable here.
__________________
Smart People do Stupid things all the time. I know, I've seen me do'em.

RV6 - Builder/Flying
Bucker Jungmann
Fiat G.46 -(restoration in progress, if I have enough life left in me)
RV1 - Proud Pilot.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 01-30-2018, 03:46 PM
Sue Sue is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Ok
Posts: 94
Default Maybe

When you say on ?decent? the cylinders cool.
And the valve guides get a little smaller
And maybe that?s when the sticking exhaust
Valves make them selfs known.Try running some
Unleaded gas for a few hours to clean the valves
And then see what happens?
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:18 AM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.