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01-29-2018, 08:19 AM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Tuttle, Oklahoma
Posts: 2,563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N23WL
Mark,
Thanks for responding. Your question is good but I can't answer specifically because my GRT CHT & EGT is unreliable. I ran the engine from startup to operating while conducting a series of IR temperature readings on all cylinders; This includes both at the exhaust manifold and on the cylinder walls.
The temperatures, though not true as they would be from the probes were entirely consistent and within the norms from the start of the test when the engine was cold until full operating temperature. I too was looking for an inconsistency in a cylinder or exhaust temperatures but didn't find one.
That was a good question and I am sorry I did not include that information in my initial post.
Thanks!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim2542
You are really handicapped not having the EIS working properly. The info you could download and analyze would greatly simplify your diagnostics.
I think the suggestion to check your valve lash is a good one based on what you?ve told us.
Good luck
Tim Andres
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv8ch
As Tim suggested, I'd call GRT and get the EIS working right. That will really help diagnosis.
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I know this does not solve your problem but can you detail exactly why you see your GRT as 'unreliable'? As others have posted, these readings can tell you a lot. I have had many conversations over the years with GRT personnel over the past decade. They are the best when it comes to customer support.
On another note, you might think about looking at fuel injectors. I have not had the stumble you mention but I have had problems with one cylinder that we resolved when we cleaned the injector screens.
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01-29-2018, 09:01 AM
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: NE FL
Posts: 18
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Darin,
Your message is of particular interest because I suspect I may have been cooking fuel for some time now. I have shielding material available to construct a shield and test it this afternoon. This makes particular sense given the proximity of the fuel lines to the exhaust/and relative easy for me to test. Thanks!
I ordered a new GRT and was not able to get it because of a delay on their part. I have located a distributor and am making progress in getting something going so I have reliable engine readings on all perimeters.
__________________
Andy
2018 Dues Paid
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01-29-2018, 11:52 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Richmond Hill, GA (KLHW)
Posts: 2,189
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As you come back to idle, the flow divider comes into play. You might want to disassemble it (it's in the AFP manual) and check for junk - especially since you say you did not install the inline filter.
If you are not comfortable disassembling the flow divider, send it off to Don and he'll check it on the bench for you.
Similarly, the fuel servo has an idle circuit that could be coming into play. It would need to go to Don for that check, IMO.
__________________
Ray
RV-7A - Slider - N495KL - First flt 27 Jan 17
O-360-A4M w/ AFP FM-150 FI, Dual PMags, Vetterman Trombone Exh, SkyTech starter, BandC Alt (PP failed after 226 hrs)
Catto 3 blade NLE, FlightLines Interior, James cowl, plenum & intake, Anti-Splat -14 seat mod and nose gear support
All lines by TSFlightLines (aka Hoser)
Last edited by Raymo : 01-29-2018 at 12:02 PM.
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01-29-2018, 12:01 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Garden City, Tx
Posts: 5,145
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As for cooking the fuel - it's entirely possible. I double-firesleeved my FWF fuel lines to give them more insulation and put heat shields on the exhaust where it was needed, and that would be more than sufficient for running 100LL. Running Mogas or 91E10 can still be challenging with a good heatsoak.
__________________
Greg Niehues - SEL, IFR, Repairman Cert.
Garden City, TX VAF 2020 dues paid 
N16GN flying 700 hrs and counting; IO360, SDS, WWRV200, Dynon HDX, 430W
Built an off-plan RV9A with too much fuel and too much HP. Should drop dead any minute now.
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01-29-2018, 07:15 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 2,791
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check the coils on emags
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Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 800+ for all
Simplicity is the art in design.
My Artwork is freely given and published and cannot be patented.
www.rvplasticparts.com
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01-29-2018, 10:11 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 2,370
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I have similar issues (AFP FI, dual P-mags) with the fuel injection lines boiling in any warm weather (and its always warm in San Diego). Engine just will not idle happily below 1000 rpm when we are taxiing. As long as I have some airspeed on descents the spider lines stay cool enough, but as soon as I land and start taxiing, then I have to keep the rpm's above 1000.
I have the red cube on the firewall, so that adds a bit of unneeded length to the fuel lines firewall forward, and I have the dual mufflers on the Vetterman exhaust, which transfers a lot of heat behind the baffling. Both of these probably contribute. Also I'm swinging a lightweight composite prop. I did try insulating and shielding the spider lines, but it really had no effect. The engine runs fine as soon as the RPM's come up. I just don't let the RPM's go below 1000 when flying. I've heard of some other potential solutions, which is to put in a heavier spring in the fuel flow divider, and/or smaller injector nozzles to keep a bit more pressure on the fuel. Search here and you'll find other threads with the same story.
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01-30-2018, 03:09 AM
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: NE FL
Posts: 18
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TMX 360 Missing
Update for everyone that has been good enough to provide suggestions and experience to help resolve this problem. We have looked at each of your posts and are 1) monitoring or have 2) ruled out...R/O for now, at least.
I found the new solenoid I put in earlier (three hours operating time) may have failed. This is an oddity in itself since they rarely go bad. This morning, I'll install a new one and orbit the field and see what happens.
If I have lost a second solenoid, it is time to look closely at what would have caused it, a bad part or something in the charging system.
I'll report.
Thanks
__________________
Andy
2018 Dues Paid
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01-30-2018, 04:42 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Collierville, TN (KFYE)
Posts: 1,433
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Just a couple thoughts: 1-I've had two bad master solenoids in a row, one was new as replacement for the original that failed before I even moved the plane to the airport. The second was bad out of the box, It happens. 2-be careful when you torque the connectors on the new solenoid as it's easy to over torque them and damage the solenoid. As I recall, no more than 35 in-lbs or something like that.
__________________
RV-8 #81077 Super Slow Build
Dynon Skyview HDX, Titan IOX-370, Dual P-Mags, AFP FM200A FI, Whirlwind 200RV CS Prop
First Flight 11/20/2016
www.marksrv8.com
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01-30-2018, 09:19 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battleground
Posts: 4,348
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Compression tests often will not show a "sticky valve". I wouldn't rule that out. I can't count how many times members here have reported odd misses and after lengthy troubleshooting, have ultimately found it was a valve that wasn't behaving.
Your EMS is invaluable here.
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Smart People do Stupid things all the time. I know, I've seen me do'em.
RV6 - Builder/Flying
Bucker Jungmann
Fiat G.46 -(restoration in progress, if I have enough life left in me)
RV1 - Proud Pilot.
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01-30-2018, 03:46 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Ok
Posts: 94
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Maybe
When you say on ?decent? the cylinders cool.
And the valve guides get a little smaller
And maybe that?s when the sticking exhaust
Valves make them selfs known.Try running some
Unleaded gas for a few hours to clean the valves
And then see what happens?
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