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  #41  
Old 01-20-2018, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv7charlie View Post
Walt, that's what I do, as well, but I have the soldering skills. I've got quite a few soldered/heatshrunk joints in my project. A lot of builders don't have the skillset & tools to do soldering, and don't have the interest in learning.

Most of the solder sleeve prices I'm seeing are around $.80 each; about half the price of the crimps shown in earlier posts.

EDIT: or maybe, less

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ILSEDWI...a-362741562167

Charlie
These are the ones I have used from Raychem, not sure what the amazon stuff is, these will cost you >$3 each!

http://www.te.com/usa-en/product-448859-000.html
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  #42  
Old 01-20-2018, 08:11 AM
TShort TShort is offline
 
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Spruce has the Raychem version for cheaper (0.79 - $1.42 depending on size):

[url]https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/edmosoldersleeve.php?clickkey=57890[/url

EDIT - these are solder shield terminations, not solder splices as referred to above (see Walt's correction below)
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Last edited by TShort : 01-20-2018 at 08:33 AM.
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  #43  
Old 01-20-2018, 08:17 AM
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Here's a good reference: https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/ins.../frameset.html
More from down under: https://www.casa.gov.au/standard-pag...ng-and-bonding

V
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Last edited by vlittle : 01-20-2018 at 08:21 AM.
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  #44  
Old 01-20-2018, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TShort View Post
Spruce has the Raychem version for cheaper (0.79 - $1.42 depending on size):

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...clickkey=57890
Those are solder shield terminations, not solder splices, not the same thing.
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  #45  
Old 01-20-2018, 08:32 AM
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Aha - thanks Walt.

Edited the post above
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  #46  
Old 01-20-2018, 09:39 AM
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Default Stein uses the terms Solder Sleeve and Solder Splice intercheangeably

Stein uses the terms Solder Sleeve and Solder Splice intercheangeably

Stein video 006 - first he strips: STRIPPING MULTI CONDUCTOR AVIATION WIRE / CABLE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PuX8yui0VU

Stein video 007 - then he attaches ground wire to shield - SOLDER SLEEVE & SOLDER SPLICE on Aviation Wire: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhRCUAYoSXg

TE Connectivity describes three methods of cable preparation:
4.2.1 Center Strip
4.2.2 End Strip
4.2.3 End Strip with Braid Fold Back - recommended for cables rated less than 125C
http://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentD...f%7F375094-000

Since Stein is using the End Strip method one might infer the rating of Tefzel insulation > 125C and from what I can find it is rated 150C.
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  #47  
Old 01-20-2018, 09:46 AM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt View Post
Those are solder shield terminations, not solder splices, not the same thing.
Perhaps I'm missing something, but the only issue should be whether the diameter is too large for the application. In either case, you're soldering tin plated copper conductors to each other with a ring of low melting temp solder, and shrinking a layer of shrink wrap around the joint.
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  #48  
Old 01-20-2018, 10:08 AM
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Thumbs up We are in absolute agreement...

Quote:
Originally Posted by rv7charlie View Post
You've got far more experience than me, and better credentials, too. :-)

I agree with you; different conditions call for different techniques. If we don't understand what drove the original requirements, it's obviously safer to stick with established procedure.

But...

Many times, especially with highly structured projects, choices are made that might not be driven purely by safety, but by...well, for lack of a better term, convenience. As has been pointed out, it's a lot easier to ensure consistent results in a production environment if the tooling does it, instead of the random craftsman. For instance, some milspec/aerospace wire is surfaced with nickel, some with silver, some with tin, etc. The info I've seen (you'd probably have direct experience) says nickel surfaced wire can't be properly soldered, but it's great for crimps. Obviously, a tech who, for instance, tried to repair nickel plated wire with solder would be making a grave error. So in critical situations, the 'book' tells the tech exactly how to do every job, and he just does it, without question or variation. He doesn't even need to know why.

Now, the question is, does that apply to us? If we buy surplus milspec wire off ebay, as some of us {me} do, it might. Certainly, if we {I} don't do our homework.

On the other hand, if we know we're using the more common tin plated milpsec wire, I believe I have a bit more flexibility in the processes I choose, while still remaining safe.

Are we close to being on the same page?

Charlie
Absolutely on the same page. With regard to the nickel, I had an experience in my early engineering days where a gold plated lead (they use nickel as the base material) was not plated thick enough with gold. The part, which saw no vibration, nicely unsoldered itself! Anyway, we are in complete agreement.

Paul
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  #49  
Old 01-20-2018, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv7charlie View Post
Perhaps I'm missing something, but the only issue should be whether the diameter is too large for the application. In either case, you're soldering tin plated copper conductors to each other with a ring of low melting temp solder, and shrinking a layer of shrink wrap around the joint.
Not enough solder in the ring to sufficiently wet the wires I think is the main difference. Thats why some sleeves are spec'd as shield termination and others are spec'd as splices.
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  #50  
Old 01-27-2018, 06:48 PM
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Allow me to speak for bare terminals and adhesive heat shrink.



Yes, it takes longer. Beyond that, there are several advantages. Every metal-to-metal crimp can be inspected visually. Open jaw plain or ratchet crimpers allow fine stoning of the jaw edges to prep a new tool.

Closed tube inline splice terminal. Good crimp, proper bellmouth:





Strain relief and vibration resistance is probably an order of magnitude beyond that offered by a PIDG's (hopefully) diamond shaped insulation crimp, and it is sealed, at least at the strain relief end.



Less bulky too.



Adhesive heat shrink can be shaped when hot. Just bend and hold a few seconds to cool. The shape is locked in.



I am not knocking PIDGs. They're fast, and mostly good enough. I will argue that the above terminations are more durable in service.
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Last edited by DanH : 01-28-2018 at 06:42 AM.
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