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  #51  
Old 01-07-2018, 07:08 PM
gasman gasman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
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QUOTE......Essolube Xd3 15w40 (EXXON for you) and Shell's rotella t are designed/formulated for either gas or diesel severe duty , high friction type applications.(flat tappet engines) it does have P and Zn in the add pack along with a bunch of other additives. If you want a spotless engine(internally) being highly protected from wear then use it. The oil certainly doesn't know a lycoming from a cummings. It just cleans and protects. (way better than "aviation" oil). Sorry that the facts. 37 years for Imperial oil looking inside hundreds of disassembled test engines.

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Exxon Xd3 15w40 appears to be discontinued based on an internet search. But Shell Rotella seams to be everywhere...... http://rotella.shell.com/products/ro...rotection.html

Anyone want to give it a try? It will give you a reason to use your new bore scope.
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  #52  
Old 01-11-2018, 08:17 AM
Doug Eves Doug Eves is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Brigden Ontario Canada
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Ok, I have been retired from esso for 2 yrs last may.(thankyou god) I just called the lab and we don't manufacture the xd3 oil in Canada anymore apparently. It is now all in the USA and is called Delvac. (my "supply" of xd3 hasn't ran out quite yet LOL) Rotella T is Shell's equivalent. They are made with conventional,crude derived, base oil which is indeed inferior to synthetic base oils but that is not an issue if you change the dang stuff. Under extreme extreme heat and pressure the base oil lube molecules will get thermally cracked into shorter chain molecules that will degrade their lubricating qualities.I completely checked all my oil ,in and out , on every oil change and worked my way up to 60hr intervals. The oil always met new manufacturing specs every time in terms of viscosity and additive levels. In other words could actually go longer but I chose to stay around 60 hrs.
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  #53  
Old 01-11-2018, 08:38 AM
Doug Eves Doug Eves is offline
 
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Location: Brigden Ontario Canada
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The real trick is to keep the moving parts "separated" from each other to prevent excessive wear. A tiny bit of wear on break in is necessary and desirable. Hence we have break in oils which is ok. The additives are what give the oil a lot of it's personality but base oil quality is important as well. For example, 5 weight oil gets into action quicker at start up in cold weather. After break in we want the engine to last forever if possible so wear protection is paramount. Microscopically, the wear additives form an "artificial" layer of material on the moving parts that continually gets removed and replaced as the engine is running. it slowly gets depleted from the mother ship (the base oil). The base oil forms a layer between the surfaces and attempts to keep them physically separated, but this is next to impossible, so that is where the wear additives come in to the picture.
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  #54  
Old 01-11-2018, 08:51 AM
Doug Eves Doug Eves is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Brigden Ontario Canada
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The reason I am doing this in small bites is because I seem to lose my comments if I take too long to hit the reply button. The concern about depositing the wear metal additives in the combustion chamber is a valid one IF we are consuming (burning) large quantities of oil. Not sure about you guys but the main place i loose oil is doing rolls which i am addicted to. All my additives get deposited on the belly of my beautiful airplane. I also use a bore scope annually and can see lead deposits in there but I am using avgas. Also on the used oil i am testing we have consistently found high levels of lead in the oil. This type of oil has additives to dissolve/disperse incomplete combustion products in diesel engines so it does an extremely good job of keeping your engine moving parts clean. Also has great anti rust characteristics. I just know it works well so I use it. But everyone has their own beliefs on this topic. (as well as everything else) So as Mark always says , Carry On
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  #55  
Old 01-11-2018, 09:04 AM
Timberwolf Timberwolf is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Navarre, FL
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I use rotella in everything around the farm including the 4 wheelers. I would be so inclined to try this on my rebel, but due to the nature of the RV engine I?ll probably stick with aircraft oil until the rotella proves it can do a good job at removing lead and deposits. I agree rotella does a great job in diesels removing particulates, just not sure how that translates into removing lead. My next oil change in the rebel will be with rotella t6, full synthetic.
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  #56  
Old 01-11-2018, 09:33 AM
bigwheel bigwheel is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: ID
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Eves View Post
Ok, I have been retired from esso for 2 yrs last may.(thankyou god) I just called the lab and we don't manufacture the xd3 oil in Canada anymore apparently. It is now all in the USA and is called Delvac. (my "supply" of xd3 hasn't ran out quite yet LOL) Rotella T is Shell's equivalent. They are made with conventional,crude derived, base oil which is indeed inferior to synthetic base oils but that is not an issue if you change the dang stuff. Under extreme extreme heat and pressure the base oil lube molecules will get thermally cracked into shorter chain molecules that will degrade their lubricating qualities.I completely checked all my oil ,in and out , on every oil change and worked my way up to 60hr intervals. The oil always met new manufacturing specs every time in terms of viscosity and additive levels. In other words could actually go longer but I chose to stay around 60 hrs.
Did they say which version of Delvac; Delvac 1 or 1300? Also curious which version of Rotella T is comparable and if Delo 400 also compares. My pops runs Rotella T6 in his pickup, I run Delo 400 in mine and in my gas boat. I've thought about using a diesel oil in my Continental but until now I had not found anyone that thought it was a reasonable idea.
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  #57  
Old 01-11-2018, 09:53 AM
Doug Eves Doug Eves is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Brigden Ontario Canada
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Not sure how you would expect engine oil to remove lead from inside your combustion chamber when its not supposed to really be in there in any big way to start with. But it does dissolve it and carry it out of your crankcase where it definitely gets to.
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  #58  
Old 01-11-2018, 09:54 AM
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maniago maniago is offline
 
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Rotella T is what I use in all my "unleaded" and diesel slider cam motors. Except my 2013 VW TDI.....which is now gone (but not forgotten - what a great car) In that I used the 507 motor oil VW specified.
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  #59  
Old 01-11-2018, 09:57 AM
Doug Eves Doug Eves is offline
 
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Location: Brigden Ontario Canada
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Obviously not implying that lead is not in your combustion chamber because that where it is designed to be but don't expect ANY oil to remove it.
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  #60  
Old 01-11-2018, 11:08 AM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
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Doug,

I don't think anyone is expecting the oil to clean lead from the combustion chambers. But the synthetic av oil fiasco a while back seemed to be related to lead building up throughout the engine because the synth oil failed to hold the lead in suspension so it could be drained. I'm assuming that the lead got there because of blowby in our sloppy-loose a/c engines, but I could be wrong. About the whole thing.

Anyway, the question in my mind is whether Rotella or similar auto oils will act like av oil in this respect.

The other issue I've seen raised is the elevated head temps of our air cooled a/c engines, as opposed to water cooled engines. No issues along those lines?

I run mogas almost exclusively, so the lead issue is minor for me, but the head temp issue remains.

What about mixing dyno & synthetic auto oil? Dyno for rust protection; synth 'cause it's super slick....

Charlie
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