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  #11  
Old 12-13-2017, 06:42 PM
NYTOM NYTOM is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff A View Post


The plans specifically call out:

AN4-11 Bolt
AN960-416 Washer
AN310-4 Nut
MS24665-208 Cotter Pin

I just replaced these the other week.
That's absolutely true Jeff but I believe he's referring to the linkage that connects to the flap, not the flap motor.
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  #12  
Old 12-13-2017, 06:54 PM
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cotter pin
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  #13  
Old 12-13-2017, 07:22 PM
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Alan Carroll Alan Carroll is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYTOM View Post
Castle nuts and cotter pins I believe are only used on bolts that will normally rotate. The rotation on the flap bearing should only be in the bearing.
Mel?
My understanding is that the bolt in question is the one that captures the end of the flap motor. There's no bearing there, just a hole in the motor casing that will tend to rotate the bolt. Hence the need for a cotter pin.

If its the bolt holding the flap control rod then yes, it has a rod-end bearing.
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  #14  
Old 12-13-2017, 07:26 PM
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Yep! that one needs a cotter pin.
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  #15  
Old 12-13-2017, 08:15 PM
NYTOM NYTOM is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Carroll View Post
My understanding is that the bolt in question is the one that captures the end of the flap motor. There's no bearing there, just a hole in the motor casing that will tend to rotate the bolt. Hence the need for a cotter pin.

If its the bolt holding the flap control rod then yes, it has a rod-end bearing.
I got it now. That photo shows a motor right over the flap linkage. Mine is centered. I never considered the motor being mounted on the side.
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Last edited by NYTOM : 12-13-2017 at 08:20 PM. Reason: Confused by photo
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  #16  
Old 12-13-2017, 10:26 PM
EXflyer EXflyer is offline
 
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As its shown unless otherwise specified as my grey matter says if the object the nut and head of bolt does not rotate you don't have to put a castle nut with cotter key on. If the item that is secured by the nut and bolt rests against the bolt or nut if I can explain it right, such as if it only had one tab instead of two then the castle nut assembly would be the proper way. I don't have the FAR to refer to.............anyone? But if the manufacture says to do something in there instructions you follow that.
Again anyone? Boyd
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  #17  
Old 12-14-2017, 07:15 AM
Flynjay Flynjay is offline
 
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I see evidence of both tightening and loosening on that nut. Nylocks are not to be reused. They are not effective on second use since the nylon will be deformed by the previous use.
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  #18  
Old 12-14-2017, 07:21 AM
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Default Not quite true......

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flynjay View Post
I see evidence of both tightening and loosening on that nut. Nylocks are not to be reused. They are not effective on second use since the nylon will be deformed by the previous use.
Nylock nuts may be reused as long as the nut cannot be "turned by hand". ref. AC 43-13. Many people have their own rule of thumb. Some use them only once. Some use them only 3 times. etc.
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  #19  
Old 12-14-2017, 08:22 AM
waterboy2110 waterboy2110 is offline
 
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There should be at least one thread showing beyond the nut when properly torqued. The photo show some gap. Verify that the proper bolt is being used per the plans.
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  #20  
Old 12-14-2017, 11:25 AM
EXflyer EXflyer is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waterboy2110 View Post
There should be at least one thread showing beyond the nut when properly torqued. The photo show some gap. Verify that the proper bolt is being used per the plans.
Looks more like it was never tightened or had been and did not lock due to too much use as per regs on nylon lock nuts. The gap is wrong due to one or those two items.
Also due to the way its used don't think one would torque it, should be just snug as they need the actuator to be able to move so it can stay aligned.

Last edited by EXflyer : 12-14-2017 at 11:47 AM. Reason: Add more data
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