Fitting SB 16-03-28 on new wings

[storkeye]

Hey, I've just unpacked the aileron hinges and prepped them for assembly. While I was at it I grabbed the SB 16-03-28 kit and prepped the angles. However, when I fitted the parts to the rear spar it was immediately obvious that I was going to have a problem.

Fitting the angles in the SB 16-03-28 kit will prevent me from being able to rivet the two skin to spar holes on the bottom skins in that area because a bucking bar won't fit. In fact, I don't think a blind rivet will fit either!

Has anyone else fitted their SB kit on a slow build new wing yet? Is there any advice from Van's on this I've missed?

[Djgeib]

I had the same problem, couldn?t buck or squeeze a rivet in there but the pulled rivet worked fine and Van?s was good with it.

[Jpm757]

Why not relieve the corners of the channel enough to get a small bucking bar in there.

[Kyle Boatright]

I'm trying to imagine the exact location.

If I have the right perspective, why not rivet the top skin, rivet the channel, then rivet the bottom skin?

Alternately, if you can't do it that way, use MK-319 pop rivets in those 2 locations. No big deal.

[storkeye]

Originally Posted by Kyle Boatright

I'm trying to imagine the exact location.

If I have the right perspective, why not rivet the top skin, rivet the channel, then rivet the bottom skin?

Alternately, if you can't do it that way, use MK-319 pop rivets in those 2 locations. No big deal.

Kyle, you've got the right location and orientation. That was my plan to buck top skin and the channel but there is not enough room for a pop rivet or a bucking bar when I do the top skin there.

jpm757, because it's a Service bulletin Item I didn't want to adjust the design of it without someone wiser than me telling me it's ok.

Djgeib, did Van's tell you which rivet to use there?

[rv7charlie]

Ask Van's for confidence, but I'd agree that the outside corners of the channel likely don't do anything structurally. IIRC, you see the equivalent structurally if you look at the tank and control surface stiffeners, where the 'web' is tapered.

And if you ever have to replace that skin for any reason, you'd have the same issue all over again if they aren't tapered.

[wirejock]

Ask Vans to be certain. I would relieve a little to allow a pull rivet. A standard rivet would be preferred but you will be riveting the bottom skin blind. Tough enough to work in an area like that with eyes on.

[jcarne]

I'm curious how close an MK-319 is to fitting, if it is close you can start pulling it very slowly while also lowering the head of the rivet into the dimple until it seats. My thought here though is that one rivets the top skin first (looks like enough room for a shop head) and then rivet on the angles as mentioned by someone above.

Edit: ok, looked at the drawings, I was upside down. Looks like a relief on them angles is about the only way. Interested to hear Van's as I'm sure your not the only one to have to address this. At any rate, thanks for posting for future builders! I am not very far away from this same step now. Thank you

[jdmunzell]

Boy! I'm glad this came up! I just installed both sides of the S/B but bottom skins not on yet, so still time to address those flanges if need be.. Never even occurred to me that the bottom skins would be a problem!!

[RV74ME]

I had to grind that edge down just a bit for the blind rivet to work. Sterling at Van's approved the use of an MK-319 BS in those spots.