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11-14-2017, 12:00 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Posts: 1,643
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Pg 47-14; Stainless Pin
Trying to cut threads into the stainless pins per the plans. I can't get more than about 1/4 inch done before the pin just starts turning in the vise, no matter how much pressure I put on it. The threads that I am cutting are clean.
I feel like I'm missing something obvious here, it seems like it shouldn't be this hard. Using WD-40 for lube and going very slow. New die, Irwin brand, probably not the best.
Any advice?
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RV-14A #140376
N196 (Flying)
2019 Bronze Lindy
Last edited by bkervaski : 11-14-2017 at 12:04 PM.
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11-14-2017, 12:07 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,035
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WD-40 is not a very good lubricant (and not what it was designed for though people use it for that)
You will do better with just plain motor oil.
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Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.
Scott McDaniels
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop Manager
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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11-14-2017, 01:23 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Yarmouth, Nova Scotia
Posts: 2,408
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I do not recall any problem tapping. I used Rapid tap and a good die. Rather than buying a can, try a local shop and see if you can steel a few drops. It really makes a difference.
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Thanks Ron
RV-10 SOLD
RV-14 Flying
AirCam flying
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11-14-2017, 01:25 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 259
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WD-40
Scott is right. WD-40 is not a lubricant. It is a solvent
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Ed Avila
St. Johns, AZ (SJN)
N646A RV9
Worlds longest RV build...but getting there
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11-14-2017, 01:29 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Edgewood, NM
Posts: 203
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WD=water dispersant. It was originally developed for the missiles nuclear weapons ride on if I remember correctly.
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Empennage Complete
Wings Complete
Fuselage Underway
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11-14-2017, 01:36 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Posts: 1,643
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Thanks, all! Got some suitable lube now and a nicer tap and die set coming, I'll give it a go tomorrow and see how I fare. 
__________________
RV-14A #140376
N196 (Flying)
2019 Bronze Lindy
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11-14-2017, 02:52 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 6,797
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Just checking, you are using proper technique? E.g., cut some new thread, then back off until you feel the metal break off, then forward again.... There?s no reason the second 1/4? should be different from the first - unless you?re not going straight.
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11-14-2017, 02:58 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Posts: 1,643
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@BobTurner I think I may have damaged the cheap die .. it won't even start now. I have a nicer set coming tomorrow from Amazon with some appropriate oil.
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RV-14A #140376
N196 (Flying)
2019 Bronze Lindy
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11-15-2017, 05:53 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,516
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I got some stainless all thread rod from Grainger, but I went with safety wire in the end. I could not get that rod to thread. As a rolled thread, it is really strong.
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Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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11-16-2017, 12:01 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Chiloquin OR
Posts: 94
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I always use Hanson taps and dies along with there drill bits. When I was building my RV3 I ordered the bits in by the package, mostly short length as there was less deflection. Larger ones just enough to get by. Was an aircraft mechanic starting my working life and ended up a heavy duty mechanic. Two things I learned real quick, one use the best drill bits, taps and dies you can get and the second, Snap On is your friend when abusing tools.
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